|Forum topic by comboprof||posted 09-09-2014 07:43 PM||816 views||0 times favorited||6 replies|
09-09-2014 07:43 PM
This is basically a continuation of Help! Shaping the bevel with a grinder question
Just thought I’d update my experiences and vent a little. Maybe you can offer more advice.
So I finally got around to setting up my never been used with new stones 3400 rpm 1/6 hp made in china grinder I picked up at a garage sale. I put on it a norton white 150 grit wheel and kept the grey 80 grit wheel. I also put two of the Veritas after tool rests and got the two jigs they sell for it. Yes I know I could of built my own, but they were having free shipping and I wanted some Grobet saw files and a Narex mortise chisel, so I placed the order.
I mounted the grinder, tool rests, and also a buffer onto a 2-foot square 3/4 piece of ply wood. placed it at the end of a 2 by 8 foot work table. Plug it in turned it on and watched in horror as everything vibrated off the table. Turned it off and hid under the covers. After searching the web I find that excessive vibration is a common problem with cheap grinders. This is reassuring. Silly me to think it just work easily. I spent the morning getting the vibration down and now it is tolerable, but I should isolate it onto its own table. It’s O.K. for now. (I can write about what I did if you like.)
Time to grind a new bevel. I’ve been tuning up a type 17 Bailey number 4, and with out the grinder I had its 2 inch blade sharpened using a 2 by 12 inch Hard Arkansas stone, by following the bevel it already had. It cut well, but there was a chip in the blade and it was out of camber, i.e. more camber on the right then on the left. So I thought with the grinder I’d fix that. First I’d fatten out to the chip and then grind a new bevel. Setting the tool rest at 90 degrees to the white stone. I made a couple of passes with trips to the water quench that I kept at the opposite end of the table, where there is less vibration. Then I adjusted the blade to take off a little more. I slipped and and cut a 1/16 by 1/2 step into the blade. Great now I have to grind off a 1/16 inch. O.K. got that done. Using the plastic Jig included with the Veritas tool rest I set the table to 25 degrees. At least I think I did, but I’m not to sure how to do this correctly. The wheel is curved but the plastic jig is flat. Its not clear when it is set correctly. Anyway I grind out the new bevel in a few passes. No issues as I now know to be more careful. Off to honing. I set up the hard Arkansas stone and hone away with the Mk II Veritas honing guide. I don’t think the 25 degrees of the tool rest and the 25 degrees of the honing guide are the same. I spend a long time doing this honing. I get trigger lock in my left hand which is very painful, but I persist. Giving up I touch up the bevel with the belt sander go back to the stone and freehand hone. I finally get it sharp and finish with green compound on leather. So after 3 hours I have sharpened a blade for my smoother. (I also rounded off the corners by the way.) Then I proceeded to sharpen my Miller Falls 14c blade. That went faster and better. But still not as smooth an operation as I would like. I’m tempted to give up on the grinder and just set the bevel with a corse stone. But I’ve invested (with the tool rests) a lot into this grinder. I also like freehand with the stone over using the Veritas honing guide.
You guys make it look so easy. I guess with more experience and practice I’ll get there …. I hope.
-- -- Cheers, Don K. (Michgan's Kewenaw peninsula)