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Rockwell Model 14 Band Saw Vibration

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Forum topic by GrizzlyBagWorks posted 09-09-2014 05:48 AM 1673 views 1 time favorited 31 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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GrizzlyBagWorks

63 posts in 1057 days


09-09-2014 05:48 AM

Hey guys, hoping to get some suggestions on how to fix this crazy vibration issue I’m having with my Rockwell Model 14 band saw (28-200). Even when the belt is removed from the pulleys the machine vibrates pretty badly.

I’ve gone through and tightened everything down, moved the motor around and it’s still vibrating. Any ideas on how to fix this?


31 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

4234 posts in 1665 days


#1 posted 09-09-2014 07:14 AM

Sounds like bad motor bearings.. turn the motor by hand and see if you hear any noise or crunchies.

It also seems to take too long to come to a stop, which is another indication, although that could be due to lack of a load on the pulley. If you can spin the motor by hand and it takes more than a couple revolutions before it stops, then the bearings are toast.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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AnonymousRequest

861 posts in 1015 days


#2 posted 09-09-2014 08:18 AM

I agree with Brad about the motor bearings. I have the same 14” saw as yours.

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Minorhero

372 posts in 2071 days


#3 posted 09-09-2014 10:27 AM

I used to have that saw. Its almost certainly your motor bearings. Pulling them is actually a pretty easy fix. Just take lots of pictures of the wiring when you disconnect so you will know where to put the wires later on. A bearing puller is only about 15 dollars at most autopart stores.

Another thing to consider is whether the motor is secured tightly. If you can move the motor up and down by hand when it is hung in the saw its not in tight enough and you need to fix it.

If you replace the bearings and that gets rid of the vibration, then you put the belt on and it comes back consider replacing the pulleys as well. Cast iron pulleys are cheap and an upgrade as well.

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Surfside

3389 posts in 1639 days


#4 posted 09-09-2014 08:48 PM

It could be bearing problem, blade or the guides.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

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Chris208

237 posts in 1736 days


#5 posted 09-10-2014 02:42 AM

You can probably remove and replace the motor bearings without removing the motor. That way you don’t have to worry about the wiring.

That’s what I did on mine.

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GrizzlyBagWorks

63 posts in 1057 days


#6 posted 09-11-2014 08:47 PM

Just wanted to thank everyone for the input! You all were spot on regarding the motor bearings. I’m a little embarrassed that this wasn’t something I checked off the bat. I pulled the motor apart and am ready to pull the bearings. Thanks so much for all the input. I’ll post a follow up video showing the difference it makes.

Thanks again!

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Surfside

3389 posts in 1639 days


#7 posted 09-12-2014 04:37 PM

Good to hear! Use great quality blades and you might want to watch Alex Snodgrass band saw set up video.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

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GrizzlyBagWorks

63 posts in 1057 days


#8 posted 09-12-2014 04:39 PM

Thanks! I have a 1/2” woodslicer, new urethane tires, cool blocks, new guide bearings and am about to install a grizzly de-tensioning lever. I’m pretty excited to get it all together and up and running.

For removing these bearings, is there any other methods besides having to spend $50+ on a bearing puller?

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MrUnix

4234 posts in 1665 days


#9 posted 09-12-2014 05:05 PM

For removing these bearings, is there any other methods besides having to spend $50+ on a bearing puller?

You probably don’t need a puller. Most motor bearings can be removed by suporting the bearing in a vice or similar fashion, with the shaft (armature) hanging free, then tapping the end of the shaft with a soft blow hammer or regular hammer and a wood block. Make sure to catch the armature from below when it comes out. If you do feel the need for a puller (they are quite handy to have for lots of things), you can pick up a three piece set (3”, 4” and 6”) of 3-jaw pullers at HF for under $20. The 4 piece set (includes an additional 8” puller) for under $30.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: If the bearing stays in the end cap instead of remaining on the shaft, you can usually tap them out with a wood dowel or drift punch unless it’s in a blind hole.. at which point you can either cut it into pieces for removal, get a blind bearing puller, or resort to the hydraulic method of removal. Fortunately, they will usually stay on the shaft, so that shouldn’t be a problem.

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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GrizzlyBagWorks

63 posts in 1057 days


#10 posted 09-12-2014 05:11 PM

Thank you for the info! I’ll pick up that 3 piece set today. Thanks again!

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GrizzlyBagWorks

63 posts in 1057 days


#11 posted 09-16-2014 01:09 AM

Thanks everyone for their suggestions. New bearings arrived today so I went to HF and picked up their three piece set and pulled the offending bearing. I left the other one on since it felt pretty good to me. Thought I’d post a video showing the difference one slightly gritty bearing can make. Thanks again.

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buildingmonkey

242 posts in 1013 days


#12 posted 09-16-2014 03:19 AM

Watched both videos, think I would replace the 2nd bearing as well. Might seem good, but didn’t take much for the other bearing to affect the saw a lot, so as much as the saw still vibrates, with just the motor running, bet you would see improvement with replacing the other bearing.

-- Jim from Kansas

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GrizzlyBagWorks

63 posts in 1057 days


#13 posted 09-16-2014 03:28 AM

I had a feeling ….. (!) I finished putting everything back together and while there is some improvement the machine still vibrates quite a bit more so than my old Ridgid BS140002. So, I’m going to pull everything apart once again and swap out that other bearing. Now that I know what I’m doing I’m sure it’ll go much faster this time around.

I shouldn’t have tried to take a shortcut! I’ll post another update video after that’s done. Hopefully it will help out the next guy.

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OldWrangler

731 posts in 1060 days


#14 posted 09-16-2014 03:52 AM

I am real glad you found such good solutions as I have the same BS with the same problems. I guess I’ll tackle that tomorrow. I thought my solution was gonna be….buy a new BS. Mine is really noisy but since I have been going deaf for a number of years, it doesn’t make a lot of difference. A side note…...a couple of days ago I installed a Carter stabilizer. I cut a lot of BS boxes and this allows for much sharper cut in corners with a blade like 1/4”. It really installs easy but will have to changed out when I go back to my normal 1/2” blade. I am not quite sold on this thing costing $80 but I’ll see in coming weeks. Maybe a good overhaul will make the stabilizer work better too.

It is well past time for an overhaul. I bit me yesterday and opened up the knuckle on my right index finger. Didn’t hurt so much but it really bled. These damn blood thinners cause that. This morning I was expecting it to hurt but still not allthough it is quite stiff. First thing stiff on this old body for a long time.

-- I am going to go stand outside so if anyone asks about me, tell them I'M OUTSTANDING!

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MrUnix

4234 posts in 1665 days


#15 posted 09-16-2014 04:21 AM

Not quite sure why you wouldn’t go ahead and replace both bearings when you had it open?!? If one was failing, the other one is soon to follow, and they are usually replaced as a pair. And if it were mine, I’d also take that bad bearing as a warning sign and replace all the bearings in the saw as well.. just to be on the safe side. It’s a really easy thing to do on these saws and you won’t even need your puller :)

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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