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I took my Unisaw off its mobLe base

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Forum topic by b67mack posted 09-04-2014 04:17 PM 537 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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b67mack

39 posts in 172 days


09-04-2014 04:17 PM

And i placed it on some clean flat 2×6 lumber to lift it inline with my other machines. I assumed I could give the base to a pal and end up with less clutter to sweep around That said = now the whole machine “wiggles”
I have shimmed it perfectly level – the side extension table legs are now on a board also but thats tight to the cement floor.

???? I thought these cabinets were well build – or did I remove the stability by taking this frame out from under it?

This is an image before I removed the base and cut away the shelf on the right – here its on part of the base and the extension table is blocked up on the shelf – this worked better than I thought it would and better than I have now.


10 replies so far

View mdawson2's profile

mdawson2

35 posts in 725 days


#1 posted 09-04-2014 04:51 PM

Were the 2×6s laid across the entire base? Concrete floors are never perfect and I see a patch and some cracks in your floor that could be causing the 2×6 to not lay flat. Try using small blocks at each corner of the base of the cabinet saw instead. Or use some type of leveling feet that limit the amount of contact the floor has with your 2×6s.

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HorizontalMike

6968 posts in 1666 days


#2 posted 09-04-2014 05:02 PM

I have some 3/4in “horse stall” pads spread out around my workbench. Bought them at TSC.

They are nice and dense so I was thinking that you could probably place them under your TS and take the “wiggle” out of the saw. Just an idea.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

3613 posts in 1947 days


#3 posted 09-04-2014 05:04 PM

Here’s what I did for mine….I never had a mobil base, but the saw was too low for my bad back, so I built a riser, and brought it up about 4” higher, made it very stable, and had room to build a saw cabinet so everything would close at hand…....

-- " I started with nothing, and I've still got most of it left".......

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Rick Dennington

3613 posts in 1947 days


#4 posted 09-04-2014 05:09 PM

-- " I started with nothing, and I've still got most of it left".......

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b67mack

39 posts in 172 days


#5 posted 09-04-2014 05:10 PM



Were the 2×6s laid across the entire base? Concrete floors are never perfect and I see a patch and some cracks in your floor that could be causing the 2×6 to not lay flat. Try using small blocks at each corner of the base of the cabinet saw instead. Or use some type of leveling feet that limit the amount of contact the floor has with your 2×6s.

- mdawson2

yes patched floor – I used two planks the width of the saw and another under the extension legs on some patio blocks I set after I sawed out the side bench

In retrospect I maybe should knock out that curb under the bench, so I could extend that way and reuse the base. As described above maybe the simplest way to correct the point load of the machine

oh well – I though I was doing a good thing – back to leveling the machine again

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b67mack

39 posts in 172 days


#6 posted 09-04-2014 05:19 PM



- Rick Dennington

Rick –
Thank- you for the picture
Thats similar to how I began this – on two 4×4’s with 2×10 for stretchers – took me up almost 5 inches, and I thought that great height was the cause of my wobble – yes I went just a bit too far
so I dropped back down onto just the stretcher boards.

When I first set the saw – I needed it now so I put it together as fast as I could and you might just pick out a shim under the base corner – then I found the arbor bearings to be shot so I took the saw all apart including the cast wing extensions——Drove a grandpa nuts with my questions about set up and after all that time its dead flat now—but depressed about the wiggle of the cabinet

I would like the table a little higher than what the mobile base gets me – ill try putting the saw back on it and putting blocks under the 6 point loads

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Grandpa

3211 posts in 1428 days


#7 posted 09-04-2014 07:02 PM

It is always difficult to get anything level and solid when using more than 3 points od contact. I would go to 3 points to shim it level. If you don’t like that idea then you need to get set up for a semi-liquid product then set the saw into that. It would be much like setting a brick into fresh mortar If it is solid enough it should be solid then you can level the entire base at the floor. That big saw is difficult to move much. What about using vinyl patch. It is found in lumbar yards and building centers. It has a 20 minute pot life. After you mix it wait about 20 minutes then set that saw on it. It should contact all around the cabinet.

View nicksmurf111's profile

nicksmurf111

232 posts in 203 days


#8 posted 09-04-2014 08:09 PM

Even though 3 point of contact is the easiest to level, with that wide wing, you are going to need 5 or 6 points. You can weld up some angle iron or in your case channel, attach the saw to it and use bolts to adjust the height under the saw, and then adjust the wing separately to take out any droop.

What I mean is, drill holes in the channel, weld on some nuts, and chase the threads with a tap, then use the bolts as feet. You should be able to do similar with wood, but it could warp/expand/contract. I wouldn’t mess with shims, because I’m sure the thing is going to get moved from time-to-time. Leveling feet are much quicker to adjust.

-- Nicholas

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b67mack

39 posts in 172 days


#9 posted 09-04-2014 08:18 PM

hummm

I have long pcs of iron

View nicksmurf111's profile

nicksmurf111

232 posts in 203 days


#10 posted 09-04-2014 08:24 PM

I put angle iron (bed frames) with 4 feet under by radial arm saw because it didn’t come with a base for the metal cabinet, and I couldn’t afford a mobile base kit…I’m cheep.

-- Nicholas

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