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Forum topic by b67mack posted 08-28-2014 01:20 PM 1267 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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b67mack

59 posts in 881 days


08-28-2014 01:20 PM

I have my table top off to change the arbor bearings – painless
Put on the new belts and tested – hummmm not good

put the old belts back on – Perfect!


15 replies so far

View Minorhero's profile

Minorhero

372 posts in 2067 days


#1 posted 08-28-2014 01:25 PM

I like the cogged belts for my machines including unisaw. But the manual requests matched unisaw belts and I believe advises they be allowed to hang a few days to lose their old memory.

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b67mack

59 posts in 881 days


#2 posted 08-28-2014 01:32 PM

The old belts had a tremendous amount of “MEMORY” before I removed them to do the deed. In retrospect the previous owner had them quite tight. Thats why I got a new matched set, but the new ones flap like a flag in the wind no mater how I adjust.

I left the saw last night with the top still off and the belts have a good 3/8 inch deflection with finger pressure. They don’t flap and I wonder if they will have less tendency to take a “memory” during the week with this low(er) tension. Yes I am a weekend warrior.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3932 posts in 1955 days


#3 posted 08-28-2014 01:36 PM

Mine came from the factory with the belts looking like they were loose. Even so, it worked just fine for 12 years or so before I switched to cogged belts this past spring.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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Grandpa

3256 posts in 2137 days


#4 posted 08-28-2014 02:21 PM

I think what you are seeing is normal for a matched set of belts. You have done the right things no move forward.

View TheWoodenOyster's profile

TheWoodenOyster

1275 posts in 1397 days


#5 posted 08-28-2014 03:39 PM

I’d like to suggest link belts. Lots of good and bad reviews out there, but I have liked the ones I have used.

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

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b67mack

59 posts in 881 days


#6 posted 08-28-2014 04:18 PM

Thanks for the input Grandpa – Yes I can move on – but what would the fun be in that?
or is that what you tell all the newbies? Move on – nothing to see here LOL

Unisaw and link belt users!

Do you just purchase a 4 foot kit and run two loops instead of three ?

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Grandpa

3256 posts in 2137 days


#7 posted 08-28-2014 08:46 PM

don’t use a link belt on a tool that uses more than one belt. No I don’t tell new people to move on. Not a pat answer. I read and reread things on here. Everyone posts the same questions and then when they get an answer it is like they really didn’t want that answer so they continue looking for another answer. Maybe I am tired but when you get some answers then move on and stop over analyzing things. These old saws were designed to use a matched set of belts. 3 belts or 4 belts…whatever. No that is what they are meant to use. use only a matched set of 3 or whatever it calls for. No more no less. Changing thing to use parts the tool wasn’t designed around is like using 10.00×22” semi truck tires on the front of your corvette. Was intended to be that way. It was designed with a certain suspension and fender height. That is what I am trying to say. A matched set of belts is what your supposed to use. You can’t make a matched set out of link belts. Won’t work. matched sets will have one that looks slack and that is the way those work. Now let’s move on. lets build some cabinets or something okay?

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b67mack

59 posts in 881 days


#8 posted 08-29-2014 01:16 AM

ummm maybe my first post to this thread wan;t perfectly clear that the three new belts were matched

yeah me bad

I placed the saw top tonight and dial indicated it square to the arbor flange. Oh I had to grind 1 thou run out on that also. ran the motor again and the old belts have that annoying memory again after 24 hours. not as bad as when they were really tight. not as bad as the new set….. but well I don;t like it

OK Grandpa thank you again for your incite
I get the point re burnout and newbie questions
If you don’t like us – well maybe you should just let us lay by our dish

Kind regards

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5765 posts in 948 days


#9 posted 08-29-2014 01:20 AM



The old belts had a tremendous amount of “MEMORY” before I removed them to do the deed. In retrospect the previous owner had them quite tight. Thats why I got a new matched set, but the new ones flap like a flag in the wind no mater how I adjust.

- b67mack

I just want to point out that you said “mater”. Haha

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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b67mack

59 posts in 881 days


#10 posted 08-29-2014 01:25 AM

yup

i did that

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TheFridge

5765 posts in 948 days


#11 posted 08-29-2014 01:35 AM

It was pretty sweet

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View unbob's profile

unbob

718 posts in 1365 days


#12 posted 08-29-2014 04:05 AM

I would tend to agree about using multiple link belts, but, this shaper I recently bought had a pair already installed, and appears to have been run for a considerable time with them.
They have equalized themselves and hold even tension.
I did purchase a set of new Gates Vextra notched belts. I discovered the Fenner “Red” link belts do run much smoother. No slip or stretch problems at all pushing this 5hp shaper to its reasonable limits.
I have read a lot of negative opinions on the link belts used in multiples, I tend to think its from those with limited or no experience with them. But, my experience is also limited to this one high speed machine, where they do work better then top quality V belts.
Perhaps best to keep an open mind. A hundred nay sayers on the internet does not mean its true.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3932 posts in 1955 days


#13 posted 08-29-2014 11:56 AM

Actually, if you call Fenner (like I did) they will tell you it’s fine to use their belts in multi-belt drives (at least that’s what they told me). I was of the opinion you couldn’t do that (past training when I had a day job) but I do believe what they told me, I consider them a very reputable company. That said, I also think the “matched set” stuff is a thing of the past, when manufacturing tolerances were not as good as they are today, so when I bought replacements for my Unisaw, I simply bought 3 of the same belts (Goodyear AX 24, if any cares) and installed them with the same slack as the OEM. With that much play, it’s hard to imagine that “matched” belts would make much difference. Just my opinion…....

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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b67mack

59 posts in 881 days


#14 posted 08-29-2014 12:32 PM

Thank – you to all the kind folks that allowed me to beat this to death and help me on the path of enlightenment – yes newbies can be a drama. We never search = because every forum uses a different search algorithm. We always ask the same questions = because those are the most common. We never clean our room, we sleep late, have to be told to take out the garbage, and we always complain about the Brussel Sprouts mom serves for dinner. :)

Before I throw another 5o – 6o bucks at this project
http://www.rockler.com/1-2-power-twist-plus-link-v-belt?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V9146&gclid=CPXvuI68uMACFYVDMgodIV8A0g

ill loosen the adjustment and let the motor tension the old belts again tonight – finish the saw assembly – and kill a tree or two – you know make a cabinet or something

Kind Regards
B

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unbob

718 posts in 1365 days


#15 posted 08-29-2014 06:24 PM

I will include a link to a 1979 Unisaw manual. On installing the motor #7, it says-the belts should be run fairly loose, also states not to let the weight of the motor tension the belts. They will be too tight that way.

My experience is with the larger Delta 12”-14” that uses 4 drive belts, there is a sweet spot between too loose and too tight.
Too loose, the belts slap—Too tight, causes the cabinet to rumble. Both will cause more vibration.
Myself, prefer the machine to run as smooth as possible, so, I take the time to find that sweet spot of smoothest running. That includes running the saw for awhile, letting the belts warm up-they tend to get tighter when warm, as they expand more in cross section then length.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/5016.pdf

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