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Forum topic by TM44 posted 08-26-2014 12:36 AM 1707 views 0 times favorited 40 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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TM44

5 posts in 1111 days


08-26-2014 12:36 AM

Hey folks -

This is my first post on this site. hope I have this in the right forum.

A recently bought a Dewalt 7491RS table saw. I don’t have space for a dedicated woodshop, so my garage has to pull double-duty. Hence the need for a portable, fold-up saw like the 7491. I also installed an Irwin Marples 50T combo blade after reading reviews on this site.

I have watched quite a few safety videos on Youtube regarding kickback. I even bought a Woodworker's Safety Push Stick to avoid loosing a finger.

I still have all my fingers, but I am missing a tail light on my Subaru. I was ripping 3/4” off of a 4 ft. shelf, and the cut-off piece launched like Hell-Fire missile and took out my tail light. I had to do this to 5 shelves, and 2 of the 5 resulted in a high-velocity projectile.

I was EXTREMELY careful not to pinch the wood, and the riving knife was in place. How can I avoid this happening again??


40 replies so far

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

5249 posts in 3384 days


#1 posted 08-26-2014 12:38 AM

Was the 3/4” cutoff between the blade and the fence?

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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firefighterontheside

15884 posts in 1578 days


#2 posted 08-26-2014 01:01 AM



Was the 3/4” cutoff between the blade and the fence?

- TheDane

I assume this is what you were doing. You need to have your push stick pushing on the piece that is between the blade and the fence. Sometimes that gets a little sketchy with narrow pieces. I have one push stick that is narrower than the other. If I need something really thin I will usually use a piece of 1/4 plywood for a push stick. You also need to be careful about the other piece that is on the left side of the blade. I will usually use the piece that I just cut and once it has cleared the blade, I will slide it to the left and push the off piece away from the blade. Then I reach to turn off the saw.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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bondogaposis

4351 posts in 2072 days


#3 posted 08-26-2014 01:47 AM

Move your fence and make the 3/4” piece to the outside.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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knotscott

7696 posts in 3097 days


#4 posted 08-26-2014 09:40 AM

If your waste piece was between the fence and blade, it can definitely get pinched and launch. If you cut so that your keeper piece is between the fence and blade, it allows you to control that, and the only way for the cutoff to launch is if it gets caught on the back of the blade, which is unlikely for a long piece.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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Tony_S

726 posts in 2804 days


#5 posted 08-26-2014 10:40 AM

That push stick looks like it’s about 3/4” thick, so I assume you had the blade guard removed to make such a narrow cut? Correct?
First suspect would be the riving knife wasn’t/isn’t set up properly(more than likely too low).

A good, solid, properly set riving knife makes it very difficult(nearly impossible) to launch a piece of wood on either side of the blade, keeper or cutoff.

-- It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it. Aristotle

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camps764

867 posts in 2081 days


#6 posted 08-26-2014 11:43 AM

Kickback is some scary sh*t. I got blasted in the chest by a piece kicking back and it felt like a horse kicked me. I thought for sure I had broken ribs.

Will be interested to hear if you had your 3/4 waste on the fence side of the cut like others have stated.

-- Steve

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TM44

5 posts in 1111 days


#7 posted 08-26-2014 12:29 PM

Thanks for the responses….

1) yes, the 3/4” piece was between the blade and fence. I thought about moving the fence wider, but the fence on the Dewalt is so handy and accurate. I just dialed in 3/4” and starting cutting. But I thought that if I did have a kickback, I would rather have it be 3/4 piece and not a 10 3/4 inch piece. Based on comments here, I guess that is not the case. I expected the waste piece to kick up and back. This just launched straight back. Not what I was expecting.

2) Yes, I had the guard off earlier and failed to put it back on. I did have the riving knife in place.

3) riving knife adjustment…good point. I will look into that.

I’ve been lurking on this site for a while – lots of good information! Thanks again!

On another note…I’ve been looking at table saws for years. SO glad I finally broke down and bought one.

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firefighterontheside

15884 posts in 1578 days


#8 posted 08-26-2014 12:35 PM

Welcome to LJs. I’ve been here for a little over a year. It’s a great place to learn stuff and make woodworker friends.
I’ve been doing carpentry for about 25 years, but woodworking only for about 13 years. I’ve learned many new things just in the year I’ve been on here. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Also you can search and see what others have asked and said.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View Crank50's profile

Crank50

173 posts in 1297 days


#9 posted 08-26-2014 01:30 PM

I know this dilemma has been resolved, but like to offer one more suggestion.

The “Gripper” push block is designed to straddle the blade and control both pieces of material to help avoid exactly this kind of episode. Especially when making narrow cuts with the blade guard removed.

I don’t one yet, but plan to get a set as soon as I can.

View b67mack's profile

b67mack

59 posts in 1141 days


#10 posted 08-26-2014 01:33 PM

Do you have an “outfeed” table rigged so you can push your 3/4 pcs past and thru the blade? Once clear there is no danger of kick back and you can repeat your cut.

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

2281 posts in 2091 days


#11 posted 08-26-2014 02:14 PM

Do a search on thin rip jig. Easy to make. If you wanted to repeatedly cut 3/4” strips off of your workpiece(s), without having to remeasure when you move the fence, this would work for you.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

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paxorion

1107 posts in 1767 days


#12 posted 08-26-2014 02:56 PM

I’ve never had a problem with “projectiles”. It sounds like there are a few variables that are working against you, but the big one you mentioned is alignment. I have the same saw and had to do some tweaking of the saw blade, riving knife, and fence alignment. Second is infeed and outfeed for larger pieces.

-- paxorion

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paxorion

1107 posts in 1767 days


#13 posted 08-26-2014 03:10 PM

Question: what are you cutting? Is it solid wood or a man-made material (plywood/mdf/particleboard)?

-- paxorion

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TM44

5 posts in 1111 days


#14 posted 08-27-2014 12:14 AM



Do you have an “outfeed” table rigged so you can push your 3/4 pcs past and thru the blade? Once clear there is no danger of kick back and you can repeat your cut.

- b67mack

no, I don’t have an outfeed table. it seems like good idea though.

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TM44

5 posts in 1111 days


#15 posted 08-27-2014 12:16 AM



Question: what are you cutting? Is it solid wood or a man-made material (plywood/mdf/particleboard)?

- paxorion

i was cutting a piece of pine 1×12 from Lowes. I think they called it “high quality/Premium” pine, or something like that. Few knots than the cheapest pine they sell.

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