Is this block plane broken?

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Forum topic by notdan posted 08-21-2014 01:29 AM 2082 views 0 times favorited 25 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View notdan's profile


24 posts in 1410 days

08-21-2014 01:29 AM

Topic tags/keywords: block plane

I bought this little guy off the internet (it’s a stanley 60 1/2) but didn’t notice this from the pictures, the base just under where the blade comes out is bent down a bit. There is a small crack on each side due to this and it sticks out the bottom a little bit (the pictures show it better than I can explain). I’ve never used a plane before… so is this a problem? Can it be fixed?

25 replies so far

View Pezking7p's profile


3217 posts in 1678 days

#1 posted 08-21-2014 01:30 AM

Yah it’s toast. But at least all the parts are good.

-- -Dan

View grizzman's profile


7836 posts in 3330 days

#2 posted 08-21-2014 01:41 AM

yes its bad, your plane is now not totally flat as its suppose to be, it will be better for plane experts to comment on this, but i dont see why you cant put a small metal shim over this and hammer it flat, it might work but i dont know for sure, to bad….

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View Deycart's profile


444 posts in 2284 days

#3 posted 08-21-2014 02:09 AM

Hammering is not a good idea. Cast iron is very brittle and you will end up snapping the back of the mouth off. Your best bet would be to use some sorta thin strong adhesive like superglue. First you want to rub the plane fully assembled on a flat surface like a jointer or table saw using some sand paper. Then clean the bottom with alcohol and get in the crack really really good I mean flush that bad boy and then do it again.

Then you want to let some superglue soak in to the crack, let it wick up until you see it on the other side. Then lightly sand the plane again while the glue is wet. This will make a glue-metal slurry that will cure very strong and almost invisible if you use a fresh sheet of paper. Do this one side at a time. Make sure you clean the other crack after the second sanding.

After that you will want to file the “bed” where the blade rest in the plane until it is all co-planer. The bend means you have a hump you need to get rid of. After that you can follow the normal tune-up stuff.

View TobyC's profile


580 posts in 1902 days

#4 posted 08-21-2014 02:50 AM

Ouch! It’s done, stick a fork in it. Can you return it?

View TobyC's profile


580 posts in 1902 days

#5 posted 08-21-2014 02:53 AM

That’s the blade support that’s broken.

View richardwootton's profile


1699 posts in 1982 days

#6 posted 08-21-2014 03:05 AM

I have to agree that poor guy is shot. But you might be able to salvage parts.

-- Richard, Hot Springs, Ar -- Galoot In Training

View MrFid's profile


876 posts in 1931 days

#7 posted 08-21-2014 03:10 AM

Pretty busted. Looks like someone REALLY REALLY cranked down on their lever cap at some point or something. That’s really where you need it to be flat.
I really wouldn’t make that your first plane. You will not have very much fun with that one. If the seller tried to pass that off without telling you (or making it very obvious from pictures), I think you’ve got legit beef with them. Send that one back.

-- Bailey F - Eastern Mass.

View upchuck's profile


540 posts in 1691 days

#8 posted 08-21-2014 03:14 AM

” is this a problem?” Yes. It is my opinion that your plane is dead. If it was my plane I’d try to get a refund or some sort of satisfaction from the seller. If that’s not possible then I would strip it of all of it’s parts and save the parts.
“Can it be fixed?” Hmmm…I don’t think so…But Deycart’s method above seems like it would have as good a chance of success as anything else I’ve heard about. Deycart’s first sentence in understated.
The #60 1/2 is a Low Angle block Plane. The area of cracking is the weak spot on all LA blocks. The casting is very thin there and the forces of tightening the blade to the bed, adjusting the depth of cut and using the plane to slice through wood all put pressure right at this weak spot. But LA blocks are such sweet planes to use and an excellent choice for a first plane.
I’d save the main body of the plane to learn as much as I could from it. I’d study the crack by sight and feel and even smell. I’d study the prepurchase information to try to figure out how I might have discovered the flaw before I bought it. I’d study myself to try to figure out what I did wrong to lead me to buy such a plane.
Buying used tools is a crap shoot. But it is the cheapest way I know of to get quality tools and to become intimate with them as you repair, restore, and use them. Learn as much as you can from this experience and then buy another plane. Good Luck.

View woodtools's profile


21 posts in 2316 days

#9 posted 08-21-2014 03:33 AM

If you are going to develop a woodworking style that includes hand planes, and you didn’t pay too much for it, throw the sole away, keep all the parts and rebuild another. I have 32 planes from a no 3 to a no 8 and I am always rebuilding planes for less than half the market price. Good luck!

View splatman's profile


586 posts in 1425 days

#10 posted 08-21-2014 04:57 AM

I’d say give Deycart’s suggestion a shot. If that does not work, then at least, you have tried something. Otherwise, save it for parts.

View Don W's profile

Don W

18754 posts in 2594 days

#11 posted 08-21-2014 12:12 PM

First, a break like that should have been called out in the ebay posting IMHO. So I’d contact the seller.

You could take deycarts fix one step further and use silver solder instead of super glue. I think I’d solder it first, then flatten it, but either way it may or may not work.

Even if it worked, I’d continue to look for a replacement base.

-- - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

View planeBill's profile


506 posts in 2435 days

#12 posted 08-21-2014 12:23 PM

Dark toast. That’s a common problem with lever cap, they exert so much pressure and people don’t realize how much, they clamp the living #@!% out of the blade and the metal is so thin there to start with and what you are looking at is usually the result. That’s unfortunate.
Is returning it a possibility? Good luck.

-- I was born at a very young age, as I grew up, I got older.

View BinghamtonEd's profile


2298 posts in 2396 days

#13 posted 08-21-2014 12:28 PM

If you have the time, you could try to fix it. If it were me, even if I did have free time, which I don’t, I’d consider it a loss.

Did you use PayPal? Or eBay? If you used PayPal, file a complaint, you’ll get your money back in no time with little hassle, and they’ll seek reimbursement from the seller. Unless the ad stated that it was broken, defective, or in need of repair, you received a defective product. If purchased on eBay without PayPal, it might take a little longer.

I would first contact the seller and seek a refund or a new plane, give them an opportunity to make it right. If they refuse, or ask you to pay anything to return it, including shipping, file a complaint.

If you bought it through some other venue, you might be out the money.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View johnstoneb's profile


2942 posts in 2199 days

#14 posted 08-21-2014 12:37 PM

Go back to the seller. It’s toast good for parts only. It could be wleded up and machined flat again but it would cast way more than it’s worth. Those 60 1/2’s are fairly common.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View TheWoodenOyster's profile


1317 posts in 1961 days

#15 posted 08-21-2014 02:27 PM

Agree on getting back to the seller. That is like selling a pair of shoes with part of the sole gone. That should absolutely be called out in the product details. That is an unusable plane.

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

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