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Belt for my Craftsman Table Saw

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Forum topic by kmach111 posted 08-20-2014 04:13 AM 2824 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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kmach111

3 posts in 837 days


08-20-2014 04:13 AM

Topic tags/keywords: belt craftsman v-belt size

Hello all,

I have a Craftsman Table saw (315.228310) and I think it’s time to replace the belt, considering it about falls off every time I turn the thing on. Now, the only place I can seem to find a belt is only Searspartsdirect.com (V-Belt PART NUMBER: 979901-001, $38.99) Here is the link:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/Craftsman-Parts/Craftsman-Parts/979901-001/0009/315/Model-315228310/0247/0744600?keySuffixId=&pathTaken=partSearch&pathRender=modelComponent&documentCompId=P9030142&diagramPageId=00009&productTypeId=&searchModelNumber=315228310&subCompDesc=Figure%20i&brandDesc=CRAFTSMAN&modelDesc=TABLE%20SAW&blt=11&shdMod=315228310&keyId=40

whew. Huge link. Anyway, I’m always looking for ways to do things, if not cheap, then at least economically, and $40 for a belt seems like a bit much. My question is: is there another place that you would recommend for buying belts? I can’t seem to find anywhere else, and if I do, it just links back to sears parts direct.

One more thing: i’m no belt master or anything, but if I can find the height, width and outside length of the belt (I can’t, as the manual gives none of that info, but speaking hypothetically), wouldn’t an automotive belt work just fine? Now, if I have to, I’ll bite the bullet and buy the stupid belt from Sears :) I appreciate any advice you can offer.

~Kevin


14 replies so far

View johnstoneb's profile

johnstoneb

2143 posts in 1633 days


#1 posted 08-20-2014 06:15 PM

Take the belt into any auto parts store they should be able to match it. Link belt is supposed to be a very good replacement/

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View dschlic1's profile

dschlic1

330 posts in 1430 days


#2 posted 08-20-2014 06:36 PM

Look in your yellow pages (or YP.com) for a place that sells belts (also usually sells bearings etc). The alternative is a link belt which is adjustable. These you can order online. For example Harbor Freight has one.

That being said you need to find out why the belt the belt is falling off. Check the alignment of the pulleys.

View TiggerWood's profile

TiggerWood

271 posts in 1067 days


#3 posted 08-20-2014 06:58 PM

I agree with dschlic1, your belt shouldn’t be slipping off all the time, even if it is bad. Figure this out first and then, if you do decide to replace it, link belts are amazing and should cost you around $30.

View ChrisK's profile

ChrisK

1809 posts in 2542 days


#4 posted 08-20-2014 07:03 PM

I used these link belts on my table saw and drill press. They work great.

http://www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_products.htm#belt

-- Chris K

View kmach111's profile

kmach111

3 posts in 837 days


#5 posted 08-20-2014 07:15 PM

All,

Thanks so much for the responses. I will look into these options. I do, however, want to respond to dschlic1 and TiggerWood. I want to be clear and not mislead you: My belt has never fallen off, however, it has a TON of play (i.e. it’s not tight at all) when rolling and bounces up and down a lot. It also makes a squeal when first starting up, not unlike when you have a bad belt in your car. Those were the symptoms which led me to this discussion. So, I guess this brings up another question: How tight should the belt be? Is there supposed to be a lot of play in the belt? Maybe I’m making a big deal out of nothing… Again, the only experience I have with belts is on cars, and those belts are pretty dang tight. Thanks for the help!!!

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

2281 posts in 1830 days


#6 posted 08-20-2014 08:02 PM

I run HF’s green link belt on my jointer and bandsaw. They work great. With the 25% coupon they’re pretty cheap. On my jointer, the belt is pretty tight. I’d say maybe 1/2” deflection at the midpoint between the pulleys. It used to be too loose, and the belt would slip, squeal, the cutter head would slow down…proper tension in the belt fixed all of those issues.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View Jimbo4's profile

Jimbo4

1432 posts in 2224 days


#7 posted 08-20-2014 08:05 PM

The green belt at HF is made in Italy – NOT china !

-- BOVILEXIA: The urge to moo at cows from a moving vehicle.

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

3389 posts in 1634 days


#8 posted 08-20-2014 09:14 PM

Got my old belt from a local auto parts supplier. Made a long search before I found one. Good luck.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View TiggerWood's profile

TiggerWood

271 posts in 1067 days


#9 posted 08-20-2014 09:38 PM

I have a 1950’s craftsman that is tensioned by the weight of the motor. I guess your belt is so stretched that you ran out of room to tension it?

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3256 posts in 2136 days


#10 posted 08-21-2014 02:52 AM

Belts are pretty mush belts whether you buy it at an auto parts store or order it from sears. Carry in the old belt and they can fix you up. Go to Tractor Supply and you match it yourself….lawnmower belts. Link belts are supposed to be good. Many use them to stop vibration. Are the sheaves okay (pulleys). Worn sheaves can cause a myriad of problems. Machined steel are the way to go. Cost a little more up front but the best buy in the back end.

View dschlic1's profile

dschlic1

330 posts in 1430 days


#11 posted 08-21-2014 05:08 PM

On my Craftsman saw, the motor is mounted on a plate that is hinged at the bottom end. The weight of the motor tensions the belt. The amount of travel that the motor can rotate is limited by a screw and a slot at the top of the motor mounting plate. However the whole assembly is mounted to the saw by two round rods that are held in place by two bolts on the frame of the saw itself. Loosening these two bolts will allow you to move the assembly out away from the saw allow the weight of the motor to apply tension to the belt. Some trial and error are needed to get the correct setting. As you raise and lower the blade, the motor, which does not raise and lower with the blade, will pivot around the hinge to maintain tension.

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4024 posts in 1812 days


#12 posted 08-21-2014 06:16 PM

Here is a link to the HF belts. They work well for me and you can’t beat the price if you use a coupon. One of HF’s hidden gems.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View kmach111's profile

kmach111

3 posts in 837 days


#13 posted 10-07-2014 10:35 PM

Guys,

So Sorry for the ridiculously late reply. I wanted to reply back and put a nail in this coffin so to speak. I did as many of you suggested and went to HF and got the link belt. It worked like a charm and took all of about 3 minutes to get the belt sized, installed and cranking. It SIGNIFICANTLY quieted my saw, too. Works like a charm!! And, to make it better, it costed about $15 with a coupon on my smart phone. A sincere thanks for the guidance and help!!!

~Kevin

View RibsBrisket4me's profile

RibsBrisket4me

1526 posts in 1966 days


#14 posted 10-25-2014 01:38 PM

OLots of great advice on this forum. Glad you got your saw running nicely!

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