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RAS adjustment question

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Forum topic by Medickep posted 08-16-2014 08:50 PM 442 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Medickep

367 posts in 427 days


08-16-2014 08:50 PM

Topic tags/keywords: resource

I had a quick question regarding calibrating a RAS. One of the first steps is to remove the blade and move the yoke at a 90 degree position to each corner of the table top rails. Using a wrench to adjust the vertical of the rails, so they are all the same.

I know how to do this part, but I’m wondering how to have the end result a specific height. Example: After I place the table top on, I want the final height to be 6.5.” So I used my square with the table top on and loosen each screw and adjusted this as a means to be close. After I took the table top off and tried the adjustment again with the wrench, I noticed the four corners were off a little from one another.

Is there a better method for achieving a certain end height?

Thanks!!!

-- Keith


10 replies so far

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Fred Hargis

1891 posts in 1182 days


#1 posted 08-16-2014 09:13 PM

Would that be 6.5” from the bottom of the frame? The adjustment you’re making (I think) is to insure the table is perfectly parallel to the ways of the arm. If you have a perfectly flat able, why not bolt it to the rails, and use that for your reference? Be aware that being perfectly parallel with the ways may make your 6.5” be off on one side or the other. I’m not sure (and am not asking) why the 6.5” target, but all the work is to insure the arm/carriage is properly squared to the table. That doesn’t mean the table will be squared to whatever else, like the frame. You might be able to get there, but it will be a lot of extra care in your adjustments. There’s a real good chance I misunderstood your question; if so, I apologize.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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Medickep

367 posts in 427 days


#2 posted 08-16-2014 09:19 PM

It was 6.5” from the top of the bench it’s on. But even though the bench is flat my garage floor is not! I was able to get them all withing a few 16th’s, which I may have to call good enough! The error could be in the arm of the saw. I suppose I can adjust the fence that will be off to the sides of the RAS. This will probably be easier to do as the fence will not be as wide as the table top, so i can match it to the two corners of the RAS.

-- Keith

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Fred Hargis

1891 posts in 1182 days


#3 posted 08-16-2014 09:49 PM

Just remember, if the arm isn’t properly squared to the table, you won’t be able to cut anything accurately. I guess it’s not possible to get the table squared and then make your height adjustments by shimming the frame to the bench?

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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Medickep

367 posts in 427 days


#4 posted 08-16-2014 11:19 PM

I’m working on the height first, than making all of the other adjustments. Which is what the manual has you do.

-- Keith

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timbertailor

842 posts in 113 days


#5 posted 08-17-2014 01:46 AM

I use a Wixey didigal gauge and make the table top perpendicular to the BLADE. I just use shims where needed.
Much easier than going through the manual procedures.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

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Fred Hargis

1891 posts in 1182 days


#6 posted 08-17-2014 02:13 PM

I wish you the best with your effort….

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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hairy

2067 posts in 2221 days


#7 posted 08-17-2014 02:17 PM

If you get 1 corner where you want it, you can use a level to get the other 3. I leveled side to side and front to back.

My saw has table mounting brackets that move up and down. I kept the nuts just barely loose enough to move the bracket by tapping it with a hammer.

The workbench that supports the RAS must be level before doing this.

Or am I answering a different question? I am famous for that.

-- the last of Barret's Privateers...

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Medickep

367 posts in 427 days


#8 posted 08-17-2014 02:32 PM

Hairy-

Because I don’t fully understand the adjustments with the arbor and all four corners of the metal frame I asked around before and was told that, that adjustment is critical so all points of the saw are perpendicular to the blade. I know I suggested using levels as you mentioned and was told that wasn’t the same adjustment. I don’t fully understand why that is, but I noticed that when I did the measurement according to the manual the table corner heights were not the same. Vice a versa, when I leveled out the table I got differant measurements using the wrench arbor test. It has to be something in the saw that would cause this.

-- Keith

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Fred Hargis

1891 posts in 1182 days


#9 posted 08-17-2014 02:46 PM

The column may not be perfectly perpendicular, and the arm may not be at a perfect 90ยบ to the arm. If you have a perfectly level table, it may not have the proper relationship to the arm. I have an article that has a dead nuts alignment procedure for the saw that Hairy has (Dewalt 925); but the author (a noted Dewalt RAS guru) explains why each step is so important. I can e mail it to you if you think it would be of interest.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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Medickep

367 posts in 427 days


#10 posted 08-17-2014 03:46 PM

Fred-

It’s a little confusing to me but I think I get it. I’ve had it setup good in the past I just am working on a new bench currently. I was trying to achieve a fixed height so when I build stuff around it, it was easier to march it exactly!

Thanks for the help!

-- Keith

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