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Dewalt trim router 'self-plunging' with fixed base

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Forum topic by Nate L. posted 08-16-2014 03:56 AM 581 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Nate L.

96 posts in 761 days


08-16-2014 03:56 AM

I was cutting a dado out for a coin rack tonight with my Dewalt trim router. I had the depth set and locked in. About 18” into my cut, I noticed a change in how the router felt. Long story short. The router had ‘self plunged’ all the way through the board and into my workbench (the workbench I finished less than two weeks ago). Does anyone have an explanation as to why the router would self plunge. Looking at a stock picture, I am thinking it might be due to the fact that I did not reinstall the black collar (I had used the plunge base previously and the plunge base doesn’t fit with the depth collar). Any input would be greatly appreciated. I will post pictures of what happened tomorrow as well as the ‘bandaid’ I came up with.

Nate

-- Nate, Las Vegas, http://nateswoodshop.com


9 replies so far

View Chris208's profile

Chris208

200 posts in 1018 days


#1 posted 08-16-2014 05:02 AM

Did the bit come loose and slide out?

View Nate L.'s profile

Nate L.

96 posts in 761 days


#2 posted 08-16-2014 05:07 AM

No, the actual motor slipped in the base. The bit was in there nice and tight. If you look at the picture in the link below, you will see the black collar I am talking about. I had not thought about that collar until working not this post and looking it up on Amazon. You can see the black collar and then the clamp below the collar. Both the collar and th rest of the base are two separate pieces. I am a router novice and it was probably just a rookie mistake by the looks of it. The fixed base without the collar has a clamp that I thought would have held the base securely but as usual assumptions didn’t work out. =)

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP611PK-Torque-Variable-Compact/dp/B0049ZFUK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408165558&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+trim+router

-- Nate, Las Vegas, http://nateswoodshop.com

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

2106 posts in 1979 days


#3 posted 08-16-2014 05:21 AM

I am confused. Did you set your depth with the adjustable rod and the rotating turret? It shouldn’t change unless the knob wasn’t tight and allowed the depth setting to change. Right?

Once the motor has been inserted into the plunge base, and the clamp secured, all should be good to go. Set your depth, start the motor, plunge the router and start cutting. I usually make several passes. I just bought one of these combos and so far it is working out well. Lighter and easier to control vs the bigger routers.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View Nate L.'s profile

Nate L.

96 posts in 761 days


#4 posted 08-16-2014 05:24 AM

@MT_Stringer: That is the plunge base in the picture you have attached. I used the fixed base so I could attach a guide to the base to get a straight cut. The yellow part right above the clamp on your base, I think should have have been the black collar on the fixed base, but I am not 100% sure.

-- Nate, Las Vegas, http://nateswoodshop.com

View Nate L.'s profile

Nate L.

96 posts in 761 days


#5 posted 08-16-2014 05:50 AM

Here are a few pictures of the issue. I just went out and put the collar on the motor and I am 99% sure that was the issue. Stupid me! I did figure out a fix for the piece so I don’t waste a $7 piece of wood. I cut 1//4” strips and glued them into the dado and then used a glue/sawdust filler on the bottom. When I am done, the only person that will be able to tell there is a mistake is me. =)

-- Nate, Las Vegas, http://nateswoodshop.com

View Loren's profile

Loren

7823 posts in 2396 days


#6 posted 08-16-2014 06:18 AM

Regardless of why this happened, bit slippage is
something to watch for.

Most of the time when I change a bit I take the
collet out and run my pinky inside the shaft to
check for debris and rust built up. etc. I have
some round wire brushes for the insides and
if bit shank is rusty I’ll smooth it off with fine
grit stearated sandpaper. Bit shank diameters
do vary depending on manufacturer.

Anyway, routers are easy to for granted and then
they pull a fast one on you with a slipping shank
or a creeping depth setting. I have some older
routers that have been especially naughty and
I keep a close eye on them.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

3982 posts in 2411 days


#7 posted 08-16-2014 03:21 PM

I have this same router. You are correct … removing the Depth Adjustment Ring (‘collar’) is a no-no. You use it to set the depth of cut, then clamp the base to the motor with the locking lever. Theoretically, the motor shouldn’t move when the lever is in the locked position but if the lever isn’t properly adjusted or if you are putting a lot of downward force on the motor while routing, the motor could slide down inside the base.

You might want to snug up the locking lever a bit … just release the lever and use a hex wrench to turn the locking lever adjustment screw. Do it in tiny increments … clockwise tightens the lever, counterclockwise loosens it.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

2106 posts in 1979 days


#8 posted 08-16-2014 05:05 PM

Glad you got it figured out Nate. You had me confused, but that’s OK. I am used to it. :-(
It is a good thing when you can repair your mistakes and continue on with your project.

Edit: When I used this model router for the first time, the bit came loose. I still don’t know why. I had tightened it the same way as I do the other routers. So, I tightened the heck out of the collet and it worked just fine. Lesson learned, I guess.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View Nate L.'s profile

Nate L.

96 posts in 761 days


#9 posted 08-18-2014 06:29 AM

Yes, it is definitely a lesson learned. I appreciate all the feedback. Now I am curious what I will mess up next and have to figure out. =)

-- Nate, Las Vegas, http://nateswoodshop.com

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