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Design problem

1K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  tomakazi 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Sorry for cross-posting, but I really need some advice about an upcoming project:

_*I will be building a bookcase with wood-framed glass doors. It will be Mission arts and crafts style, in red oak. I plan to have a large single piece of plain glass in the door, with approx 2" X 5" rectangles of stained glass around the perimeter of the clear center piece..
This will be my first attempt at making and joining rather thin wooden muntins between the glass panels, and I honestly just don't know how to join and/or cope the muntin-to-muntin profiles. The door itself will be 4/4" cope and stick, should I use some other profile? I'd rather not just go the leaded rabbets route.
How are other people doing it?

Similar to this door: http://media.photobucket.com/image/stained%20glass%20door/mmmindenver/Img0435.jpg?o=16*_

How are others making and joining glass-panel muntins? Thanks, all!!
 
#4 ·
Thanks, tomakazi and Mark!
Yes, I have the sash bits and doorframe rail-and-stile sets.
The issue I have is joining thin cope-and-stick muntins together. There will only be a 1/4th" bed between the panes of glass. There will be dozens of coped joints where these thin muntins join together.
I think I might just make a gridwork of 1/4" X 3/8" sticks with pegged joints, and make another gridwork of 5/8" X 3/8" sticks with sash profile and coped joints, then just lay them together and bed in the glass. (These are 3/4" thick doors.) As you can see, a reliable joint in such a thin profile is necessary, to support all that glass and the additional stress of it on a swinging door. There must be a lumberjock who routinely does this kind of work and knows what works!
 
#5 ·
I have done some work like this. One way you could do it is mill your pieces, then do lap joints with a fine hand saw and sharp chisel. I've done a lot of woodworking for a stained glass shop and most jobs that were difficult (like this one) I just got started and figured thing out as I went. One other thing, in a situation like your link, once the glass is siliconed in it will help hold those little rails. then I don't know if you're going to trim the other side or glaze, but they will both helpalso.
 
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