|Forum topic by swarfrat||posted 08-14-2014 07:56 PM||3149 views||0 times favorited||10 replies|
08-14-2014 07:56 PM
I recently saw some wood projects where cracks in the wood were filled with pigmented resin. This got the wheels turning. Most of the weathering info on the net seems to focus on coloration, dirt, and abrasion. How would I encourage checking, and how can I control the size/depth of the checking?
A little cursory reading would suggest that moisture / drying cycles is the only way to create checking. But what about control? If I want a fine spider webbing, or deep cracks? I found a hardwood floor website which had a nice chart of woods more or less prone to cracking. What about stability of the cracked layer?
What I had in mind eventually was a solid body electric guitar project. Oak is one of the more succeptible woods to cracking, and it’s also more response to ebonizing. That’s nice because the contrasting finish needs to stay on the wood and not cover the resin in the cracks. I think the cracks need to be pretty big to get enough material down in there to be visible. Like deep enough that a thin top (like 1/8 or less) might not be stable. That might be ok if it’s possible to do the cracking after gluing the top onto a base wood which is less prone to cracking. I’d still like to avoid stressing the base wood as much as possible.
Poplar is not a high brow tone wood, but it is accepted and somewhat common in electric guitars, cheap, and not prone to cracking. The oak would just be a thin top. (I won’t say veneer because to me that suggests paper thin.) If I’m accelerating the drying process, should it air dry, oven dry? If the oven is ok, does it need to stay below boiling, or is that OK (or even encouraged)?
Or should I consider an alternate “cracking” method (like stick it between two sacrificial sheets and hit it with a hammer)? Would a thicker (say 1/4”) top provide coarser cracking?