« back to Jigs & Fixtures forum
Forum topic by BigMig | posted 08-12-2014 10:23 PM | 1580 views | 0 times favorited | 7 replies | ![]() |
![]() |
08-12-2014 10:23 PM |
Topic tags/keywords: mdf adhesive glues t-track Team, So it seems that I need to use some kind of adhesive to hold the t-track (aluminum) in the MDF channel. What would be best? Paneling adhesive? Liquid nails? Basic 2 part epoxy? Wood glue that I already have? Elmer’s? Other ideas? Thanks in advance for your ideas. -- Mike from Lansdowne, PA |
7 replies so far
#1 posted 08-12-2014 10:35 PM |
Don’t use MDF, maybe something thicker and stronger? Could you use a machine screw and nut if that wouldn’t interfere with anything? Are you limited in the thickness? What is the jig for? |
#2 posted 08-12-2014 10:41 PM |
If you are concerned about it, epoxy. If you really want to be sure it holds, scuff up the bottom of the T-track before epoxying it in. -- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn. |
#3 posted 08-12-2014 10:42 PM |
Could you back the MDF face with a plywood backer? Even using plywood I usually double up the top when I am routing in metal t-track. I don’t bother if I am routing the slot with one of those t-track router bits that cuts the slot rather than using a metal one which is a 2nd option if you want to keep the jig smaller and lighter. I have had good luck routing a t slot into MDF directly in the past. Liquid nails or Epoxy would probably both work in that case but I wonder how secure it will be long term. You might end up pulling up pieces of the MDF with the track over time. |
#4 posted 08-12-2014 10:52 PM |
Don’t try hot melt glue it will harden before you reach to the end of the slot. I too say liquid nails or similar.Alistair -- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease |
#5 posted 08-12-2014 10:59 PM |
Two part epoxy that works on metal, glass, and plastic. I would have suggested a dual purpose track that can be secured from the bottom with T nuts, hex heads, etc. to avoid your current dilemma. MDF is flat and easy to work but prone to absorbing moisture. Not good for a table top over time, not to mention its poor ability to hold fasteners. -- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed |
#6 posted 08-13-2014 01:41 PM |
Mike, have you ever had to scrape any brand of wood glue off from your bar clamps? Sticks pretty good doesn’t it? I use Titebond II for 95% of my woodworking, that’s what I use when installing T-track in the jigs I make, works for me. To your point of 3/4” MDF or Melamine. Best Regards. – Len -- Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len ...just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana. |
#7 posted 08-14-2014 04:09 PM |
Thanks, everyone for your ideas. The jig is designed to be used to flush-trim long (edge) lengths of lumber – to the straight (factory) edge of the mdf. I have 5 foot runs of maple that I want to join and make into a coffee table top. I’m going to use the factory mdf edge to rout (with a flush trim bearing router bit) each mating surface of the maple boards. So as a solution, I may affix some plywood to the bottom of the jig so I can screw the t track through the mdf into the plywood. It’ll be heavy, but the t-track will definitely stay in place when anchored in this way. -- Mike from Lansdowne, PA |
Have your say...
You must be signed in to reply.
|
Forum | Topics |
---|---|
Woodworking Skill Share
|
12033 |
Woodturning
|
2108 |
Woodcarving
|
431 |
Scrollsawing
|
340 |
Joinery
|
1370 |
Finishing
|
4907 |
Designing Woodworking Projects
|
6696 |
Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories
|
28069 |
CNC Woodworking
|
212 |
Hand Tools
|
5413 |
Jigs & Fixtures
|
1420 |
Wood & Lumber
|
6233 |
Safety in the Woodworking Shop
|
1388 |
Focus on the Workspace
|
2154 |
Sweating for Bucks Through Woodworking
|
1187 |
Woodworking Trade & Swap
|
4759 |
LumberJocks.com Site Feedback
|
2201 |
Coffee Lounge
|
8847 |