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Gang rip on 3HP cabinet saw?

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Forum topic by Matt Michaud posted 08-11-2014 12:34 PM 1128 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Matt Michaud

35 posts in 2533 days


08-11-2014 12:34 PM

So I do a lot of ripping of 3/8 strips of ironwood. Has anyone tried setting up a cabinet saw for gang ripping? If it were poplar, I wouldn’t think twice – I’d mount up two blades and give it a shot. Because the ironwood is a bear to cut (some chatter/burning seems unavoidable), I am a little more hesitant. My thought was to get (2) thin kerf 7-1/4” or 8” blades in order to slow the blades down a little. I know a straight line rip saw would be ideal, but… Clamping force on each blade should be the same regardless, so I wouldn’t think slipping would be an issue. I already setup a hold-down behind the blade to prevent lifting/kickback. Anyone ever run a gang rip setup? Any advice?

-- "Strength in Composites" http://sandwichtechskis.com/shop-dust-collection.htm


6 replies so far

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Fred Hargis

3950 posts in 1961 days


#1 posted 08-11-2014 12:51 PM

How would you insure control of the fence piece and the center piece (the one between the blades) to prevent kickback?

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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AnonymousRequest

861 posts in 1017 days


#2 posted 08-11-2014 01:00 PM

It would almost have to be power-fed. On a 3 or 4 wheel power-feeder, you’d have to toe it in a bit. I’d see that causing problems running multiple pieces. A woodmaster plane has a gang rip head which is fed and held down. You’d have a lot coming back at you possibly, if you were feeding it manually and something went wrong.

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rrww

263 posts in 1581 days


#3 posted 08-11-2014 09:54 PM

I have run a gang rip and its the feeding chain that keeps the pieces running straight. Its nothing like a table saw.

If your wood is burning it means its moving or getting pinched – not a real good idea to introduce a second blade. A kick back from a decent sized cabinet saw can be quite powerful.

As far as the Woodmaster – it makes gang ripping safer – but it still kicks out a small piece here and there. It will not correct a crooked edge like a SLR. You also cannot go down to 3/8” between the blades – I think its more like 7/8” or so.

To live to see another day or two I would get a decent power feeder, 5hp+ table saw, a tail boy, and crank it up. You will have the best of quality, and safest choice for the money. You will be happy with how fast it goes. Many guys use this setup for molding blanks, and flooring. If not – find a pro shop to rip the banks on a SLR for a few bucks.

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REO

889 posts in 1542 days


#4 posted 08-12-2014 04:36 AM

well….I have run gang rip. designed the out feed and recovery too.lol it was 500 hp and could cut up to12 boards off a 9” cant at a time. it actually climb cut and used hydraulically driven feed rolls with hydraulic force to hold it down. it was built to arrest a 100 mile an hour 600 pound torpedo if the hydraulics failed mid cut. it was actually water lubricated through Babbitt pucks between the blades.

If you plan on doing enough to warrant the set up set up a double splitter and set the blades as high as possible. that way the force of the blade is directed more into the table instead of straight back. kick the outside splitter away from the fence be sure that the inside splitter is the same width exactly as the kerf of the blade. You wont have to worry about the blade slipping. You don’t say how thick the pieces are that you are cutting or how long. I would use a finger board for each of the three pieces and use the next piece to feed the first through like a zero clearance pusher (chuckle) For the last use a scrap piece of material long enough to push the other through the saw and turn the saw off to remove the pusher.

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Matt Michaud

35 posts in 2533 days


#5 posted 08-13-2014 12:18 AM

Thanks guys for all the input – I am starting to get a better idea of how I need to progress. @rrww, glad you pointed out the limitations of the Woodmaster…I was considering that. Since our lumber always has a straight edge, it sounds like a good powerfeed would be more logical upgrade than going for the SLR. Had been considering one for the bandsaw anyhow.

REO, well 500hp is certainly outside the scope of our projects…for now :) A climb-cutting saw would probably extend the life of blades considerably – especially w/ ironwoods! Anyway, I have played with blade heights, and while the high blade prevents lifting, it also seems to be more “jarring” (rough finish) as the blade enters the cut so abruptly. Powerfeed could probably improve this as well.

-- "Strength in Composites" http://sandwichtechskis.com/shop-dust-collection.htm

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,

2387 posts in 3014 days


#6 posted 08-13-2014 12:58 AM

This has been interesting. I have long wanted to set up a gang rip. We rip a lot of FF stock. I am thinking a 5 or 7.5 hp heavy saw set up with a 4 wheel feeder would work fine for what we need.

I don’t want to buy a gang ripping machine. It is not in our capacity to own one of those monsters.

I think I will follow this thread some.

-- .

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