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Forum topic by Medickep posted 08-10-2014 05:24 AM 821 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Medickep

360 posts in 394 days


08-10-2014 05:24 AM

Topic tags/keywords: bench ras bench chop saw bench layout resource

I’m in the design stage of making a bench for my RAS saw and chop, which I would like to have a common fence and most likely will utilize the Kreg precision trak and stop kit as I’ve heard a lot of good things about it.

I was lucky enough to find a free 10’ bench with laminated top on Craigslist, which has a few drawers already and is already plumbed for power for multiple tools.

The one thing I did not consider was the handle for lowering and raising the RAS. This may cause the RAS to sit more forward on the bench than I was initially thinking, as well as the final top to the table. I could put the RAS on a platform to allow clearance for the handle on the saw. I’m curious to see what other members have done as I know this is a great resource for ideas and I’m great at copying good ideas! I just don’t want to build it and than wish I had done it a different way.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

Here are some picks of the bench:

-- Keith


22 replies so far

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DIYaholic

13565 posts in 1331 days


#1 posted 08-10-2014 01:06 PM

Can’t tell from the picture….
Does the height adjustment handle come out the front, under the table?
If so, can you add a length of threaded rod to extend/move the handle???

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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hairy

2023 posts in 2188 days


#2 posted 08-10-2014 01:29 PM

Figure out how wide the bench needs to be for the RAS, make the whole bench that wide. If you don’t want overhang in the front, build up the back side. Don’t let that space back there go to waste, maybe a laydown lumber rack or some other storage.

Use some hardboard for the replaceable cutting surface, so you’re not cutting the table.

Just a few thoughts…

-- the last of Barret's Privateers...

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Medickep

360 posts in 394 days


#3 posted 08-10-2014 01:39 PM

DIY-
That’s a great idea, but I’m not sure about changing the crank…if you can. I’ll look into this as an option for not raising the bench any higher.

Hairy-

I thought about this to and this may be the way I go. A frames out section out of 2×4’s so I can clear the handle of the RAS and put it exactly where I want to.

Thanks again and keep them coming!

-- Keith

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Rick Dennington

3405 posts in 1850 days


#4 posted 08-10-2014 02:35 PM

Go to my Blog, look under Woodshop Pictures #2, and you’ll see how it’s done…...It’s the third picture down…....The table you have is gonna be kind of hard to work with, but it can be done….I’ve commented on this before when you asked previously, but said you had a bench located…..By building iy tourself, you get exactly what you want, and how you need it…....Withe the table you have, you’ll figure it out….....

-- " I started with nothing, and I've still got most of it left".......

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Medickep

360 posts in 394 days


#5 posted 08-10-2014 03:09 PM

Rick-

Thanks for the post. I ended not being able to resist the free bench! For a hobbyist I saved a few 100 dollars on plywood!

-- Keith

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MrRon

2834 posts in 1899 days


#6 posted 08-10-2014 04:33 PM


My RAS is shown on the right and the miter saw is about 5’ to the left of the RAS. This is the best picture I have. The band saw is mobile, so I can cut very long pieces of 2x’s by letting the right end stick out the doorway. I use the miter saw to cut long lumber, but the RAS can also be used.

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timbertailor

576 posts in 80 days


#7 posted 08-10-2014 10:38 PM

The stroke on a RAS is not that long and having it sit forward will not be a problem. Just make sure you make use of its entire stroke.

If you want pictures on how to set up your fence, you can find them in my workshop photos.

You will also want to be able to cut long pieces like baseboards and quarter round. I suggest having your bench placed so you can bring in long pieces from outside and set them on the bench. Some stock is 12” long or so so just keep that in mind as you bring it in the shop and place it so that it can be crosscut and moved.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

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Medickep

360 posts in 394 days


#8 posted 08-11-2014 12:02 AM

Timbertailor-

For some reason I’ve convinced myself I need the RAS pushed back a little, maybe leaving a little room for the DC in the back. I suppose I could have it forward, which was cause more overhang in the front, but I must admit, I’m not following what you meant by “the stroke on a RAS is not that long.” If you’re referring to the yolk, I guess I would call it, one option I was looking into was making it longer.

-- Keith

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timbertailor

576 posts in 80 days


#9 posted 08-11-2014 12:18 AM

I was referring to the cross cut capacity. I think mine is called an 18” but with my fence set up, I would be lucky to cross cut more than 13”. Your fence will have to be in front of the blade and that chews up real estate.

So, if you cross cut capacity is like mine, you can be 13” from the front edge of your bench and still have full cross cut capacity.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

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Medickep

360 posts in 394 days


#10 posted 08-11-2014 12:23 AM

Okay, that makes sense, and I’ll keep that in mind while coming up with a plan. As of now (still 12 in on a 48 hour shift), I’m leaning towards framing a shelf out of 2×4’s than layering it with a sheet of plywood and building a fence to match the tools.

The only reason I’m leaning towards this route is that the bench is around 34” and I could handle having it a bit higher!

-- Keith

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Medickep

360 posts in 394 days


#11 posted 08-12-2014 09:08 PM

Does anyone know if there is any reason you shouldn’t position the support rails for the RAS table in there more rear position? I’m in a position where I need to raise my RAS more to clear the handle in the front or push the table back some, to avoid a huge amount of overhang.

I noticed the table with other pieces is much wider than the reach of the saw. My idea would bring the blade closer to the front edge of the table, which may be considered more dangerous.

Thank you,

-- Keith

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DIYaholic

13565 posts in 1331 days


#12 posted 08-12-2014 10:22 PM

I don’t see why not. The “extra” table space, IIRC, is for when the saw is setup to rip wide stock(or perhaps for other operations with accessories). Since most people won’t use that feature, the “extra” table space is wasted.

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procratination a bad thing?

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Medickep

360 posts in 394 days


#13 posted 08-12-2014 10:25 PM

Thanks DIY-

I figured it was okay, but I wanted to make sure as I’m new to the RAS. I’m already going to have the saw a little more forward than I would care to so shaving off the extra will help.

Unless I come up with a way to extend the yoke!

-- Keith

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timbertailor

576 posts in 80 days


#14 posted 08-12-2014 11:06 PM

Just keep tracak of your RAS travel. If your blade goes out that far, you are going to need that table space.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

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Medickep

360 posts in 394 days


#15 posted 08-13-2014 02:18 PM

Well last night I tried the rear position for the table rails but it will not work. The thumbscrews are not long enough to reach the wood and clear the main collar of the tool!

It’s a bit of a last ditch effort, but simply cut an area for the handle out of the table so I could rotate it!

It cost me one of drawers I was going to make, but I still have a cubby!

-- Keith

showing 1 through 15 of 22 replies

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