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Freud Diablo Blade Run-out

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Forum topic by TurdFerguson posted 08-06-2014 06:18 PM 797 views 0 times favorited 27 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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TurdFerguson

20 posts in 1781 days


08-06-2014 06:18 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Hey All,

I’ve been searching through here with no luck.

I have an old CMan 113.XXXXXX table saw with some blade wobble.

I found out about the arbor flange possibly being the culprit, so I first bought some new bearings and when that didn’t work I got a grinding stone and went to work the Mathias Wandel way. This still didn’t seem to do the trick. But thinking back on it, it may have just been the cheapo stone that I bought wasn’t doing it’s job or that I just didn’t grind enough.

Moving on, I bought a “new” arbor shaft in the hopes that my problem was with my old one being bent. I just installed it yesterday and set up my dial indicator and was only getting around .002 of run-out on the “new” flange, so I was pretty excited until I put the blade (Freud Diablo) back on. I set up the dial just under the gullets and spun the blade with the pulley attached to the arbor and was getting around .023 at the worst point. So I put my other Diablo blade on and was still getting a high number. Then I went to Home Depot and bought a new Diablo blade and that one turned out to have around .014 of run-out.

I don’t get it. Is it possible that all three of these blades (even the new one) are all warped slightly? Should I try a higher end blade?


27 replies so far

View Targa's profile

Targa

106 posts in 488 days


#1 posted 08-06-2014 06:46 PM

I also have an old Craftsman 113 saw and use Diablo blades exclusively and only have about .003-.004 run out.

However, I use Freud 5/8” Bore Stabilizing Collars (#SC001) which have a 3 1/2” od and that could be making a difference. You may want to consider them.

-- Dom

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knotscott

5602 posts in 2124 days


#2 posted 08-06-2014 07:23 PM

By any chance are you over tightening the arbor nut enough to distort the blades?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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TurdFerguson

20 posts in 1781 days


#3 posted 08-06-2014 08:31 PM

Thanks, Dom. I’ll check them out.

Scott, I’m not cranking the nut down but I make sure it’s fairly secure.

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knotscott

5602 posts in 2124 days


#4 posted 08-06-2014 09:11 PM

It self tightens, so only needs to be a little more than finger tight.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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TurdFerguson

20 posts in 1781 days


#5 posted 08-06-2014 09:24 PM

OK, thanks. I’ll try that and see what I get. I went ahead and order a stabilizer as well just to see if that helps.

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TurdFerguson

20 posts in 1781 days


#6 posted 08-07-2014 02:12 AM

Bump for night crew.

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ajosephg

1860 posts in 2309 days


#7 posted 08-07-2014 03:21 AM

If your flange has 0.002 runout, it will be magnified at the circumference of the blade. So – get the flange down to a max. of 0.0005.

-- Joe

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MrRon

2980 posts in 1991 days


#8 posted 08-07-2014 03:30 PM

The very best blades will have a maximum of .002” runout, so if the arbor has .002” runout, you can’t expect the blade runout to be any better than .004”.

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TurdFerguson

20 posts in 1781 days


#9 posted 08-10-2014 02:24 AM

So I did a little more testing and am out of ideas and just don’t understand.

The flange has .002” of RO. With the blade, washer and nut on, the blade has ~.014” of RO. When I take the washer and nut off and hold the blade against the flange with hand pressure and just spin the blade (not the arbor) it has ~.002” of RO, so that makes me think the blade is fairly flat and there is something else wrong when it is all put together. Hopefully that makes sense.

Is it possible that the washer is not flat and causing that much RO?

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Rick M.

4491 posts in 1128 days


#10 posted 08-10-2014 03:25 AM

Runout 4” from the arbor (near the gullets) would be about 0.008, assuming the blade was dead flat, which it probably isn’t. If you are turning the arbor by holding the blade, that could easily introduce the difference. If you can reach the belt, use that to turn the arbor and blade.

Here’s how I checked my saw:

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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knotscott

5602 posts in 2124 days


#11 posted 08-10-2014 12:04 PM

You can flatten the washer a little on a sander….

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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TurdFerguson

20 posts in 1781 days


#12 posted 08-10-2014 02:07 PM

Thanks, Rick. I’m doing the same thing. And I’m holding the blade against the arbor flange with just enough pressure to turn the blade only and not the arbor. I know this isn’t the most scientific way to do it, but I don’t have one of those Aline It kits or whatever it is that has the nut with the spring.

Scott, is it possible that if the washer isn’t flat, that could be causing that much RO?

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TheFridge

1031 posts in 234 days


#13 posted 08-10-2014 02:29 PM

I lapped my washer and it helped a lot.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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knotscott

5602 posts in 2124 days


#14 posted 08-10-2014 02:56 PM



...Scott, is it possible that if the washer isn t flat, that could be causing that much RO?

- TurdFerguson

There’s not a huge chance of that being the sole culprit, but there’s definitely some possibility. Can’t hurt to lap it flat. It’s also worth checking the surface of the blade where it contacts the arbor and flange. How’s the cutting performance?

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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TurdFerguson

20 posts in 1781 days


#15 posted 08-10-2014 04:12 PM

I haven’t tried the new blade yet but the cuts have been chappy on the other blades. With every single blade I’ve put on, I can spin the blade by hand and see the wobble in it.

I’ll measure RO by the nut and see what it says.

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