Tite bond III, really waterproof?

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Forum topic by BJODay posted 07-31-2014 01:26 AM 1696 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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526 posts in 1968 days

07-31-2014 01:26 AM

Topic tags/keywords: glue tite bond iii waterproof

Hey all,
I’m looking for some quick advice. I’m helping a friend is repair some oars used for an Irish Currach. The oars are pine but they use a triangular piece of oak to ride on the oar lock pin, (sorry but I don’t know the proper terms).

He laid out the pieces for me to cut. When I went to the shop tonight and I realized he gave me spruce boards. He also gave me an old piece for a pattern and it is definitely oak.

I can fashion some out of red oak I have on hand. (I know white oak would be better). I’ll have to glue two 3/4 pieces together. The old piece is 1-1/2” thick. My questions is, will Tite bond III be suitable for this task? The oars get wet but this part stays out of the water. If Tite bond III is not suitable, what should I use? I’ll be laminating two 3/4×6’s and then cutting the triangles from this large piece.

Any advice is appreciated. I hope to start tonight or Friday.
Thanks BJ

9 replies so far

View jmartel's profile


7954 posts in 2175 days

#1 posted 07-31-2014 01:29 AM

Epoxy would definitely be more waterproof. For something like this, if you used Titebond III, I would also use some sort of mechanical attachment as well, just to be sure. Something like screws, dowels, sliding dovetail, etc to give it a bit more strength.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View 489tad's profile


3368 posts in 3036 days

#2 posted 07-31-2014 01:36 AM

I agree with the epoxy. I used TBIII on a outdoor bird feeder. Post are glued miter joints. It’s been outside for 7 or 8 years and the joints are still holding. Materi is white oak. If you use Tite bond I wouldn’t worry too much.

-- Dan, Naperville IL, I.G.N.

View BJODay's profile


526 posts in 1968 days

#3 posted 07-31-2014 01:37 AM

The triangular pieces are attached to the oars with screws, no glue. It makes them easier to replace because they wear down. The glue I need is to laminate two 3/4” oak boards into a thicker 1-1/2” piece.


View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

29393 posts in 2363 days

#4 posted 07-31-2014 02:06 AM

I would use epoxy as well.

-- Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View BJODay's profile


526 posts in 1968 days

#5 posted 07-31-2014 02:09 AM

I went ahead and used Tite bond III. If the consensus is negative I’ll use this piece for something else and reglue 2 other boards.

Not quite enough clamps. Christmas list has clamps on it.

This is the piece I’m trying to duplicate.

The milling shouldn’t be too hard. I’m just hoping it will last.


View TheFridge's profile


9608 posts in 1511 days

#6 posted 07-31-2014 02:11 AM

Epoxy :)

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View MrRon's profile


4794 posts in 3268 days

#7 posted 07-31-2014 03:50 PM

I believe Titebond III is regarded as “moisture resistant” not waterproof. waterproof and resistance is tested by immersing the glued joint in water for a number of hours. Epoxy is good and also resorcinol glue, available in marine supply stores.

View JayT's profile


5674 posts in 2236 days

#8 posted 07-31-2014 03:57 PM

While Titebond III is labelled as waterproof, it is not rated for sustained immersion. It would probably be OK for your application, as I understand it, but epoxy would give a much larger margin for error.

The other concern is using red oak. You are going to have a big challenge trying to seal the open pored red oak from the water and it will rot relatively quickly with a lot of moisture contact.

-- In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock. Thomas Jefferson

View Steven Prosser's profile

Steven Prosser

18 posts in 1607 days

#9 posted 07-31-2014 06:24 PM

I’d be inclined to use this stuff.

-- The only thing the world knows about Belfast, is that we built the Titanic..... It Sank

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