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Mold on wood, need help

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Forum topic by Gixxerjoe04 posted 07-28-2014 08:35 PM 1308 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Gixxerjoe04

835 posts in 1037 days


07-28-2014 08:35 PM

So i cut some maple burl week before last, anchor sealed it and it’s in my garage. Looked fine the other day when i looked at it and the past 2 days we had a good amount of rain. Looked at it today and there’s mold growing on it!! What do I need to do to get rid of it and prevent it from coming back?


13 replies so far

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mudflap4869

1152 posts in 919 days


#1 posted 07-28-2014 09:34 PM

Begin by placing it where there is an air current. Keep it off the floor where moisture tends to accumulate and away from walls for the same reason. Mold does not grow very well in sunlight. A weakend solution of bleach and water sprayed on the mold might kill it without discoloring the wood. I am far from being an expert but this has worked for me in the past.

-- Still trying to master kindling making

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Gixxerjoe04

835 posts in 1037 days


#2 posted 07-28-2014 11:04 PM

I sprayed it with some bleach water solution and put a fan in front of it. Thought about buying a dehumidifier for my garage until i saw the price of them.

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fuigb

403 posts in 2418 days


#3 posted 07-29-2014 12:00 AM

I’m not an expert either, but a box fan on a timer has kept my soft maple, sycamore, and apple wood (hey, you take what you can get) free from mold. My latest stack sits in my garage just inches off of the floor, and the fan runs maybe a couple of hours total in intervals spread across 24 hours. I did get mold initially, but this was before I decided to run the fan. Bleach & water cleaned off the mess but it will be another eight months before it can be determined how much discoloring actually occured.

-- - Crud. Go tell your mother that I need a Band-aid.

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WDHLT15

1571 posts in 1936 days


#4 posted 07-29-2014 12:55 AM

Maple will gray stain badly if the temp is hot and the humidity is high. A garage is not a good place to dry wood. You need air flow to remove the water vapor from around the wood, especially with maple. If you leave it in the garage, a box fan will help a lot.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT40HD35 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln. hamsleyhardwood.com

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Gixxerjoe04

835 posts in 1037 days


#5 posted 07-29-2014 01:01 AM

Well unfortunately that’s the only place i can put it unless it sits outside. Could put a couple pallets down in my backyard under a tree and put a tarp over them or something, don’t think my finace would let them dry in the house haha

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Yonak

979 posts in 981 days


#6 posted 07-29-2014 04:51 AM

Can you get them into the attic ? It should be warm up there and fans (or better, a dehumidifier, if you had one) will reduce the humidity. If you plan to get more green wood in the future, a dehumidifier may be a wise investment.

P.S. to Danny : I’m confused by your statement about heat being conducive to mold growth. I thought heating wood in dry air was a mold removal technique. I can’t recall the study where I heard that, but it seems like there was a temperature and time threshold, which could be the solution. I may well be incorrect.

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TopamaxSurvivor

17654 posts in 3136 days


#7 posted 07-29-2014 06:29 AM

Vinegar will kill it better than a bleach/water solution. The bleach will kill it, but the moisture encourages it to come back. Vinegar will kill it.

-- Bob in WW ~ "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

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WDHLT15

1571 posts in 1936 days


#8 posted 07-29-2014 12:03 PM

Yonak,

Gray stain is not mold. It is an enzymatic oxidation (Chemical) reaction in the wood that occurs when the temp and humidity are high and there is little air flow. Results in an ugly gray/bluish stain in the wood, sometimes very splotchy. It will penetrate deeply into the wood and not plane out.

Here is some on a drawer side made of maple. The thickness of the drawer side is 5/8”.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT40HD35 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln. hamsleyhardwood.com

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Yonak

979 posts in 981 days


#9 posted 07-29-2014 01:15 PM



Gray stain is not mold. It is an enzymatic oxidation….

- WDHLT15

Thanks for the info, Danny.

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Gixxerjoe04

835 posts in 1037 days


#10 posted 07-29-2014 03:16 PM

Didn’t know about the grayish stuff, good to know about that. Funny you should mention about getting more green wood, had a big cherry tree blow down Sunday and I cut a ton of burls from it. It’s still in my bed, cutting it up and sealing it tomorrow, it’s better looking than what I have molding right now so def don’t want it messed up

View Nomad62's profile

Nomad62

726 posts in 2419 days


#11 posted 07-29-2014 03:59 PM

Maple molds exceptionally quickly; the only way I know of that really works well is to use 1 of a variety of mold/bug killers available at just about any woodworking outlet. Mix it with water and spray it on liberally. If your humidity isn’t too high the mold will only go in about 1/8” or so on a flat surface but will travel several feet along cracks.

-- Power tools put us ahead of the monkeys

View Ocelot's profile

Ocelot

1470 posts in 2099 days


#12 posted 07-29-2014 06:55 PM

If you keep the relative humidity below 60% – with good air flow – you should be ok. Above 70% and it will mold for sure. One of my mentors told me not to dry wood in the shop. You need a separate structure – like a carport – with open sides.

-Paul

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WDHLT15

1571 posts in 1936 days


#13 posted 07-30-2014 01:22 AM

It is best to saw and dry maple in the Fall and Winter here in hot and humid Georgia.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT40HD35 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln. hamsleyhardwood.com

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