Fixing sanding belts that come apart

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Forum topic by MrRon posted 07-26-2014 09:06 PM 1351 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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4769 posts in 3241 days

07-26-2014 09:06 PM

A while back, there was a post asking the question; “How to splice sanding belts. The question was tossed around, but as I recall, nothing positive came about. I was reading up on a 3M tape called Scotch VHB (very high bond) tape. I knew about this tape for quite a while, but didn’t understand the correct way to use it.

It appears that after applying it to the back of the sanding belt splice, you have to allow it to rest for at least 24 hours before putting any stress on the splice. The tape is designed to move and return to it’s original position upon removal of stress. That is if the joint was allowed to cure. Without the cure time, the joint will fail.

This is pretty strong stuff. It is used to attach panels to skyscrapers without any mechanical fasteners being used. The fancy skyscrapers in Abu Dhabi use the tape to hold the sheet metal panels to the building. It is pretty expensive stuff.

6 replies so far

View Ger21's profile


1074 posts in 3128 days

#1 posted 07-26-2014 10:43 PM

It’s cheaper to buy good belts than VHB tape at $50-$100/roll. I prefer 3M purple belts, which last a very long time, and never come apart.

-- Gerry,

View Dallas's profile


3599 posts in 2485 days

#2 posted 07-26-2014 10:59 PM

Short search showed a much different price than 50-100.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View lateralus819's profile


2241 posts in 1887 days

#3 posted 07-26-2014 11:02 PM

Vhb tape is incredibly strong mostly used for metals and the like. I use it for permanent bonds on lots of stuff. I once had a surge protector for my computer that kept falling off my desk. I used Vhb tape and it worked. So we’ll in fact my wife had to literally use a pry bar to remove it, removing a big chunk of wood with it. It doesn’t feel very tacky and until two items are bonded it is easily removable. The best way I’ve found to remove items is twisting them in opposite directions.

View distrbd's profile


2252 posts in 2444 days

#4 posted 07-27-2014 12:22 AM

Mrron,I didn’t know there was such a thing as vhb tapes,but there are so many different types,3560.4941,5952,4010,,double sided vhb,clear,permanent,automotive,foam,etc,etc.
How could we tell which type is for the sanding belt?
I’m now thinking of ordering 3M 4941 double sided to give it a try,thanks for the info.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View Ger21's profile


1074 posts in 3128 days

#5 posted 07-27-2014 02:00 AM

Short search showed a much different price than 50-100.

- Dallas

Are you really getting 3M tape when you order it from China???

-- Gerry,

View diverlloyd's profile


2732 posts in 1855 days

#6 posted 07-27-2014 02:29 AM

I was the poster of that question. I am having luck with titebond III. What I have done is scrape 3/4” of the grit off to the cloth or paper backing that will be the back of the lap joint. Then cut the pieces square and glue them leaving them clamped over night. I can not take credit for this it came from popular mechanics magazine from the 50s. Make sure the lap is with the direction of travel so the edge doesn’t get caught on the work piece. I haven’t tried out the paper backed ones that I made but the clothe backed ones I used for about 45 minutes on wood and another 20 or 30 on metal to test them out. Oh and I used harbor freight sand paper for this test. I don’t think the 3/4 lap is really that big of a deal in my case since I made 80” belts. 3/4” lost in circumference is only a little under a 1/4” in diameter, so not bad for me if I reused the original belt and it’s on a bandsaw so I would have had plenty of room for adjustment. On smaller machines with less adjustment a 1/4” it would be a issue, so a lap joint may not be plausible. If you have any questions pm me if I don’t answer in this thread but I will be checking back in.

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