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Ridgid BS14000 Bandsaw issue

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Forum topic by Ajs73 posted 07-26-2014 12:06 AM 521 views 0 times favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Ajs73

73 posts in 205 days


07-26-2014 12:06 AM

Hi all fellow jocks, First off let me start by saying this is
definitely not a tool gloat. I’ve been looking
On CL for a while for a 14” bandsaw. ( don’t
have any experience with a bandsaw other
than my little Craftsman 10” ). I see all the stuff
you fellow jocks can do with them inspired me
to get one. I ended up buying one for $125.00 It has a
fence that’s labeled Fast Trak Inc. Merril, Wis. Anyway after some research on LJ I stiffened
the stand ( had it apart for the move home) and
reassembled it seemed to run great with no
vibration at all with blade that came with it.
(Dull though. So I went to Lowes and bought
a Bosch 93 1/2×1/2 w/ 4 tpi (all they had) I’m hoping the Bosch blade is my problem
because it cuts like sh£€ I watched the
Snodgrass video on U-Tube and everything
is set up like he demonstrates. I couldn’t cut a
2×4 straight for nothing. I couldn’t even keep
It against the fence with a lot of pressure. I’m hoping the blade is just crap but IDK.
Any help is appreciated. Also what is the curved piece that came
with the fence ? Thanks for any help from a rookie BS user !

Sorry if pics or text is messed up. All I have is my phone at moment.

-- Andy, Alliance,Ohio


16 replies so far

View distrbd's profile (online now)

distrbd

1195 posts in 1134 days


#1 posted 07-26-2014 12:14 AM

Install a new good quality blade,tension it properly and then decide if there’s a problem,Dull blades can also be sharpened if you can be bothered to do it,it is a tedious job.

-- Ken from Ontario

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Ajs73

73 posts in 205 days


#2 posted 07-26-2014 12:32 AM

Thanks for the help. What would you consider
a good 1/2” blade. Hate to spend to much if I have
a diff. Issue. I’m intrigued by resawing but a straight
cut on anything is a good start.

-- Andy, Alliance,Ohio

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patcollins

1003 posts in 1553 days


#3 posted 07-26-2014 12:36 AM

I had a bosch blade, it was crap.

I really like the Carter blades, I think they are over looked but I have a 4 tpi carter blade on this same saw and it leaves a cut that rivals my table saw for smoothness.

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TheFridge

900 posts in 173 days


#4 posted 07-26-2014 12:43 AM

I inherited the same model. Can’t get the table square without drilling the trunnion mounting holes. Hasn’t come to that yet but I’m sure it will eventually. I just don’t use my bandsaw enough to feel like doing it.

-- "We build our workshops. Then we enjoy the fruits of our labor by laboring for more fruits." - Me

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gfadvm

11234 posts in 1378 days


#5 posted 07-26-2014 01:06 AM

That curved piece is a “single point” resaw fence attachment. You scribe a line where you want to cut and the curved face allows you to guide the board and cut a straight line regardless of blade drift. I prefer this method for resawing rather than relying on the fence and assuming no blade drift. Use the single point fence and practice on some soft pine.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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TheFridge

900 posts in 173 days


#6 posted 07-26-2014 01:19 AM

Pretty good idea. Never heard of that.

-- "We build our workshops. Then we enjoy the fruits of our labor by laboring for more fruits." - Me

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NormG

4259 posts in 1691 days


#7 posted 07-26-2014 02:15 AM

Congrats on the saw, get a good quality blade and watch some videos for techniques

-- Norman

View distrbd's profile (online now)

distrbd

1195 posts in 1134 days


#8 posted 07-26-2014 02:41 AM


Thanks for the help. What would you consider
a good 1/2” blade.
- Ajs73

I couldn’t help you with that since I live north of the border but I’ve heard Timberwolf(Suffolk) Swedish silicon steel 0.025” thick 3/8” 3 TPI bandsaw blade is a good start.

-- Ken from Ontario

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Gixxerjoe04

301 posts in 264 days


#9 posted 07-26-2014 03:38 AM

I have the 14002 model i believe(knock on wood) but it has worked out well for me and i paid the same price but had to buy a fence. I also bought a bosch blade to resaw, it cuts ok i guess but leaves a crappy rough edge that has to be run through the planer a few times. Been meaning to buy a new blade but not sure what to get, will probably go to woodcraft tomorrow for a sale they’re having. Back when i got mine everyone said get cool blocks and urethane tires.

View Slemi's profile

Slemi

30 posts in 229 days


#10 posted 07-26-2014 05:07 AM

I would guess the biggest problem with your saw would be blade drift. I see You have fence square to front end. You need to first set blade drift to fence. I have smaller bandsaw, some cheap one, but untilI set fence for drift I had a lot of problems, but since the correction I can rip 3” high straight even with guides lifted all the way up away from wood.

See here how to set blade drift: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZThUPOr_Ug

View toolie's profile

toolie

1769 posts in 1316 days


#11 posted 07-26-2014 12:06 PM

What would you consider a good 1/2” blade.

contact Iturra design. no website but Lou can be reached here:

http://www.manta.com/c/mmc3znn/iturra-design

he has forgotten more about band saw related topics than the so called authorities will ever know. and his welds are spot on and very durable. just getting the right blade from him turned an 18” jet BS from a POS to an acceptable tool (nothing to rave about). lou sells several brands of blades and if you ask nice, he’ll weld one up spot on so you can eliminate the blade as a possible source of any performance issues. in my case, it even negated the inaccurate set up of an authorized jet dealer (that was a waste of $175)

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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timbertailor

829 posts in 112 days


#12 posted 07-26-2014 01:27 PM

It should be in the manual, but before setting the tension to get the blade to ride properly on the tires, take a scraper and gently remove all the garbage from the tires. They tend to get sawdust and sap built up on them.

I suggest using a 3 TPI blade or less.
I also suggest tuning your band saw so that the gullet of the blade rides as close to the center of the top tire as possible. Just make sure it does not rub on the enclosure.

Third, make sure the rear bearings on the top and bottom are just a hairs breathe from touching the rear of the blade (thrust bearings).

Last, adjust the slide bearings so that they come within a hairs breathe of touching the blade.

There are videos out there on the procedure on YouTube. Your best bet is to remove the table top and clean it while you have it apart. Clean all the bearings and oil up the old girl to prevent rust.

Good luck and let us know if this tune up helped.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

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timbertailor

829 posts in 112 days


#13 posted 07-26-2014 01:28 PM

- timbertailor

P.S. IMO, there is no such thing as blade drift on a band saw, just bad tuning.


-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

View Ajs73's profile

Ajs73

73 posts in 205 days


#14 posted 07-26-2014 01:33 PM

Thanks for all the help, I haven’t had the time to
get a good blade but I will definitely update once I
do. Thanks again !

-- Andy, Alliance,Ohio

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2860 posts in 1931 days


#15 posted 07-26-2014 08:37 PM

I have the same saw. I put a riser block on it, put different guides on it; moved the motor to a location under the saw (had to cut a slot in the stand for the belt); balanced the wheels; installed a new blade (Starrett Woodpecker); set the blade according to Snodgrass; and now the saw cuts perfectly with no drift. Basically the makings of a good band saw are all there. You just have to improve upon it.

showing 1 through 15 of 16 replies

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