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Forum topic by SlimPickins posted 07-18-2014 11:32 AM 1304 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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125 posts in 1942 days

07-18-2014 11:32 AM

Well, I haven’t yet dusted off my new trailer – sorry.

This summer I built this Harbor Freight 1250 lb. capacity trailer. It cost me 298.00 (sorry it was $265.58 with tax, bad memory or something) from Harbor Freight with tax. So it was only $229.99 until I added
2 pieces of a 16 inch reach set (what is a reach set?) Then I took some old White Oak and used it both for the sides and for the stakes. The pockets for the stakes I ordered from (Kevin J./George J. – I had to drill a lot of holes for this thing and I also added some extra oak beams to strengthen the underside. And I have one angle iron still to go on.

So with my bad back it was crazy doing this but I needed a smaller trailer – my other trailer is quite large.

I have very little work to do and I already have this thing license-plated and ready to drive.

One HUGE problem if someone can give me some advice:

I would like to make each of the two castle-nuts on the hub a tiny bit tighter – like one notch tighter. When I set them, I know I made them a tiny bit looser than what I want – the bearings will run a little hot. So can someone out there tell me how to jack this thing up? I have a car jack ready to go and I have some car jack stands. The problem is it’s hard to get to the frame. Just curious if someone has an idea before I go out and try this. The trailer weighs close to 400 lbs. with the oak sides/stakes. I guess I can just lift up one side and put a jack-stand under it. That’s what I’ll probably do. The opposite side wheel is chocked, then lift and push.

In lieu of any ideas from you guys, that’s what I’ll do.I may even try to use my car jack so I don’t have to strain the good side of my back until it heals.

Well, enjoy the dusty trailer pic!

By the way, the back gate is a slide-up style and I DO intend to put a mechanism – either mechanical or electrical to make it slide up – should be a fun project.

-- If a bug can't eat it, it isn't good wood

5 replies so far

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

10542 posts in 3456 days

#1 posted 07-18-2014 12:33 PM

Nice job on the lil’ boy.
I’d use a floor jack or a car jack to raise it at the side, and then slip a couple of your jack stands under it at the corners of the frame. Have to do it twice, one side at a time.

That’s how I change wheels on our car hauler, and raise our tow behind mower to change the blades.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View SlimPickins's profile


125 posts in 1942 days

#2 posted 07-18-2014 01:43 PM

Ok, so I’ll have to add 2 more jacks or stands or cement blocks to support it. Then should I jack on the axle?
I kind of worry a little about the axle so I guess I’ll jack on the frame – perhaps put an oak board to make the frame smoother so there are no grooves.

Anyway, that should work. The jack will help a lot.


-- If a bug can't eat it, it isn't good wood

View helluvawreck's profile


31407 posts in 2894 days

#3 posted 07-18-2014 01:55 PM

Nice work, Slim. That will be very useful.

helluvawreck aka Charles

-- helluvawreck aka Charles,

View SlimPickins's profile


125 posts in 1942 days

#4 posted 07-18-2014 04:58 PM

Wow, it’s a nice feeling to get those nuts tightened. I just used your method of 4 points only I used two in
the front and only one in the rear – so I used 3 points and it worked fine. Lucky thing that I had two concrete blocks and some wood to level things but it worked great!

Hubcaps on!

Time for finishing touches and I’m off to the junkyards or whatever!

-- If a bug can't eat it, it isn't good wood

View SlimPickins's profile


125 posts in 1942 days

#5 posted 07-18-2014 05:05 PM

Trailer ready to roll.

-- If a bug can't eat it, it isn't good wood

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