Table Saw Cutting Issues, Blade type or Blade Dull The Reason?

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Forum topic by Blackie_ posted 07-17-2014 05:50 PM 1471 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Blackie_'s profile


4883 posts in 2476 days

07-17-2014 05:50 PM

I just noticed that my table saw not cutting properly, the board I am using is alder and was purchased with a single straight edge, the pre cut has a nice flat butt against the fence but after my blade cut I’m seeing slight gaps shown in the pictures below so I’m wondering if it’s the nature of the blade I am using or is it possible dull,

I’ve tried slowing down the pass, checked the blade to be 90 degrees to the table using the Wixey and checked that the blade gullets were above the work piece.

The blade I’m using is the Forrest, Woodworker II #1 grind .125 kerf

The first picture shows the gap from my cut, the second pictures shows the precut that was already on the board.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at

12 replies so far

View timbertailor's profile


1594 posts in 1388 days

#1 posted 07-17-2014 05:57 PM

It could be the blade but if the edges show no sign of burning or blatant blade marks, It might just be your technique. I always use a feather board parallel to the fence, a zero clearance insert with an MJ micro splitter at the back edge of the blade, and a good ripping or cross cut blade, depending on the wood and the cut being made.

I would also invest in one of these. You will get better cuts. Period!

P.S. Check the fence for deflection at the end farthest from you.

-- Brad, Texas,

View pintodeluxe's profile


5620 posts in 2777 days

#2 posted 07-17-2014 05:58 PM

Let’s assume your blade is fine. If the board moves away from the fence when cutting, it will bobble the cut. Do you use featherboards or a splitter?

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Blackie_'s profile


4883 posts in 2476 days

#3 posted 07-17-2014 06:02 PM

OK that’s possibly it then, I have noticed the board moving away from the fence as it passes through the blade, I’ve been using a 4” wide custom made push handle keeping my hands away from the blade but no feather board and no splitter on the table nor burn marks.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

20280 posts in 3069 days

#4 posted 07-17-2014 06:26 PM

Feather boards or constant pressure from a push stick would help eliminate that especially if your fence is set up a touch wider at the back like mine is. When I use the table saw I always have a push sick in each hand – especially the left hand for pushing against the fence. I notice if I drop pressure that I get a blade “ring” cut into the edge sometimes and it might be what you are getting.

I set up my fence that way so I never get an pinching between the blade and the fence.

.............Cheers, Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View longgone's profile


5688 posts in 3272 days

#5 posted 07-17-2014 06:41 PM

I have also noticed the same type of cut on some woods if there is tension in the wood before it is cut. The cut will usually open up wider than normal if the board does have tension in it. I use a featherboard but that is only good for the pre cut side of the blade.

View DocSavage45's profile


8519 posts in 2806 days

#6 posted 07-17-2014 11:32 PM

Although it is a good blade there may be some wobble? The micrometer gauge shown would let you know if that were and you could use a magnet and feeler gauge? Tension in a board might be evident as you cut? All the above suggestions are excellent.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View Roger's profile


20923 posts in 2768 days

#7 posted 07-18-2014 12:34 PM

I agree with all the above statements.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed.

View bigblockyeti's profile


5090 posts in 1684 days

#8 posted 07-18-2014 12:50 PM

I’ve experienced this before and it was a function of technique. It can happen when only trying to shave a little off the edge of the board and the blade deflects slightly. It’s unlikely that the blade you have is doing that, more likely with a thin kerf blade.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4901 posts in 3924 days

#9 posted 07-18-2014 02:01 PM

You need a splitter or an update on your hospital insurance.
I say that ‘cause I’m not wantin’ to see you hurt.
Those injury pics really ruin my day.


View Nubsnstubs's profile


1279 posts in 1694 days

#10 posted 07-18-2014 02:33 PM

Hey Blackie, chalk that up to stresses in the wood. If you are concerned about that little bit of gap, cut all your boards a little wider. After all pieces are cut, go back and true them up.

I’ve cut some 2 1/2+” wide strips from KD alder, 8-10’ long boards, 6-10” wide, and watched as a gap appeared somewhere about midway. About 6” from the end of the cut, there was so much stress the wood split on it’s own, and I finished my cuts. That has happend pretty much my intire 40 years of woodworking. It’s in the wood, and you can’t stop it. You can only minimise it. This excessive stress only happens with about 2 boards out of 100 bdft, and it’s usually where a crotch would be. You can see that by looking at the large elongated rings that denote a crotch area.

Some of the wood ater being cut looked like you could use it for rocking chair rockers without any refining. Some would also twist so bad , even a 6” piece was unusable. Again, it’s the nature of the wood.

95% of the time, I cut all my boards to 1” of final length first, then rip my stuff. If there is excessive stress, I go back to the jointer to true up the edge, and do another cut. Repeat until done ripping what you need…........ Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson)

View Hammerthumb's profile


2836 posts in 1939 days

#11 posted 07-18-2014 02:34 PM

Looks like tension in the board was released during the cut. That is why I always cut slightly oversized. I then let the boards rest for a day. The next day I will joint one edge and face, and then re-rip the other edge, and then plane for final thickness. The edge that I re-ripped will just get a soothing plane over it a couple of passes, and then on to joinery.
I do agree on the splitter for safety, but do not use a featherboard when rough cutting materials. Using the process described above, if I find that if I need to use a featherboard for the final cut, there is usually still too much tension in the board for use in a project.

-- Paul, Las Vegas

View Blackie_'s profile


4883 posts in 2476 days

#12 posted 07-18-2014 03:04 PM

The reason I have the splitter out was due to the zero clearance insert that I had to custom make for this outdated saw, I’ll take another stab at another insert but if memory serves me right due to how the saw was made it doesn’t allow for a zero clearance insert and splitter too, the saw in question is a hybrid hitachi cl10fl table saw, it’s still a good saw I don’t use the 45 adjusting wheel on it though as it has plastic gears and after hearing from others they are prone to break on this saw, I prob should start looking for a replacement but I just can’t see replacing it yet since it’s doing what I need it to.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at

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