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When glue works too well

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Forum topic by bigblockyeti posted 18 days ago 524 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bigblockyeti

1403 posts in 326 days


18 days ago

I’ve made an out feed table/jig of sorts that I occasionally have attached to the backside of my bandsaw when resawing or ripping long stock. I ran out of room on my assembly table so I was gluing up a cutting board here knowing that any drips resulting from squeeze out would easily scrape or flake right off of the plastic laminate. I was wrong. Titebond II apparently has a tenacious grip on cheap laminate, enough to pull it right off the particle board substrate. These were allegedly “high quality” office furniture desk tops that I did get for free, so I guess I can’t be too broken up about it. It’s still functional for what it’s being used for, just not as pretty anymore. Has anyone else experienced a situation where they knew the grip of the glue wouldn’t be a problem, but it was?


9 replies so far

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TiggerWood

192 posts in 212 days


#1 posted 18 days ago

I wouldn’t say the grip of the glue was a problem but I did a glue up on my table saw knowing the glue wouldn’t stick. The next day there were some pretty nasty rust patches where the glue was on the table.

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bigblockyeti

1403 posts in 326 days


#2 posted 18 days ago

I learned the lesson of wet wood glue on cast iron a long time ago.

View Dallas's profile

Dallas

2858 posts in 1093 days


#3 posted 18 days ago

Good Luck on that. I keep my out feed and other tables waxed with JPW. I don’t think you can even get super glue or anything else to stick to it.

Even when I get slack I use an old Stanley chisel to clean the glue off. I have to sharpen it every so often, but never use it for anything other than cleaning dried glued spots, wet glue in joints, gummed up spots everywhere.

Try it, you might like it!

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

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bigblockyeti

1403 posts in 326 days


#4 posted 18 days ago

I’ve waxed every cast iron surface in my shop, don’t know why I didn’t think to wax the out feed table too, not only would it keep this from happening again, but help things slide better as well.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10606 posts in 1296 days


#5 posted 18 days ago

Titebond II pops right off my Formica bench top. Your laminate must have some wood/paper product in it.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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bigblockyeti

1403 posts in 326 days


#6 posted 18 days ago

It wasn’t made in a cabinet shop, that’s for sure. The laminate is very thin, maybe 20% as thick as what you’d be able to buy if making your own.

View JAAune's profile

JAAune

759 posts in 922 days


#7 posted 18 days ago

Probably the sort of laminate seen on Sauder furniture.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View bobasaurus's profile

bobasaurus

1182 posts in 1790 days


#8 posted 17 days ago

I have a cheap harbor freight workbench, so I just wax the crap out of the top and glue away. A paint scrapper pops off any dried glue easily afterwords. I would have thought a melamine-type table top wouldn’t stick either, sorry you had trouble with the glue. I kind of want to wax every surface in my shop now.

-- Allen, Colorado

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spclPatrolGroup

182 posts in 1500 days


#9 posted 14 days ago

I lay down butcher paper wax side up over my bench or table saw or whatever I am gluing on top of.

-- Dave, Fargo ND "Bad spellers of the world, UNTIE!!"

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