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When glue works too well

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Forum topic by bigblockyeti posted 07-14-2014 09:19 PM 730 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bigblockyeti

1812 posts in 471 days


07-14-2014 09:19 PM

I’ve made an out feed table/jig of sorts that I occasionally have attached to the backside of my bandsaw when resawing or ripping long stock. I ran out of room on my assembly table so I was gluing up a cutting board here knowing that any drips resulting from squeeze out would easily scrape or flake right off of the plastic laminate. I was wrong. Titebond II apparently has a tenacious grip on cheap laminate, enough to pull it right off the particle board substrate. These were allegedly “high quality” office furniture desk tops that I did get for free, so I guess I can’t be too broken up about it. It’s still functional for what it’s being used for, just not as pretty anymore. Has anyone else experienced a situation where they knew the grip of the glue wouldn’t be a problem, but it was?


9 replies so far

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TiggerWood

197 posts in 357 days


#1 posted 07-14-2014 09:23 PM

I wouldn’t say the grip of the glue was a problem but I did a glue up on my table saw knowing the glue wouldn’t stick. The next day there were some pretty nasty rust patches where the glue was on the table.

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bigblockyeti

1812 posts in 471 days


#2 posted 07-14-2014 09:29 PM

I learned the lesson of wet wood glue on cast iron a long time ago.

View Dallas's profile

Dallas

3203 posts in 1238 days


#3 posted 07-14-2014 09:37 PM

Good Luck on that. I keep my out feed and other tables waxed with JPW. I don’t think you can even get super glue or anything else to stick to it.

Even when I get slack I use an old Stanley chisel to clean the glue off. I have to sharpen it every so often, but never use it for anything other than cleaning dried glued spots, wet glue in joints, gummed up spots everywhere.

Try it, you might like it!

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

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bigblockyeti

1812 posts in 471 days


#4 posted 07-14-2014 11:52 PM

I’ve waxed every cast iron surface in my shop, don’t know why I didn’t think to wax the out feed table too, not only would it keep this from happening again, but help things slide better as well.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

11535 posts in 1441 days


#5 posted 07-15-2014 12:57 AM

Titebond II pops right off my Formica bench top. Your laminate must have some wood/paper product in it.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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bigblockyeti

1812 posts in 471 days


#6 posted 07-15-2014 01:51 AM

It wasn’t made in a cabinet shop, that’s for sure. The laminate is very thin, maybe 20% as thick as what you’d be able to buy if making your own.

View JAAune's profile

JAAune

979 posts in 1067 days


#7 posted 07-15-2014 02:41 AM

Probably the sort of laminate seen on Sauder furniture.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View bobasaurus's profile

bobasaurus

1453 posts in 1935 days


#8 posted 07-16-2014 06:21 AM

I have a cheap harbor freight workbench, so I just wax the crap out of the top and glue away. A paint scrapper pops off any dried glue easily afterwords. I would have thought a melamine-type table top wouldn’t stick either, sorry you had trouble with the glue. I kind of want to wax every surface in my shop now.

-- Allen, Colorado

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spclPatrolGroup

232 posts in 1645 days


#9 posted 07-19-2014 01:58 AM

I lay down butcher paper wax side up over my bench or table saw or whatever I am gluing on top of.

-- Dave, from ND "The mind is an infinitely long workbench, and its cluttered with half-finished thoughts and ideas, sometimes we need to clear off the workbench and start again from step one."

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