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Forum topic by Biggamefish posted 07-14-2014 02:47 PM 953 views 0 times favorited 2 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Biggamefish

47 posts in 886 days


07-14-2014 02:47 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I don’t want to have to constantly buy blanks. I can get my hands on trees etc. I am turning small things (small bowls, game calls etc.) can I turn green wood for these or do I have to let them cure for a year or two so I don’t get cracking? Also how do you go about curing the wood I have heard of painting the ends with latex paint. does this work?

-- ><((((º>`·. .· `·. .· `·... ><((((º> · `·. . . . .· `·.. ><((((º>`·. .· `·... ><((((º> 


2 replies so far

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GrandpaLen

1643 posts in 1739 days


#1 posted 07-14-2014 03:21 PM

You might want to start your ‘wet wood’ journey here;

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/30425

...then in the search window at the top right of this page, enter key words ‘microwave green wood’.

Best Regards. – Grandpa Len.
Work Safely and have Fun.

-- Mother Nature should be proud of what you've done with her tree. - Len ...just north of a stone's throw from the oHIo, river that is, in So. Indiana.

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

1886 posts in 1601 days


#2 posted 07-14-2014 05:01 PM

No problem rough turning wet bowl blanks to a uniform thickness and set aside to dry or reach EMC before final turning. Depending upon wood species might ready to turn in as little as three to six months.

Spindle turning with wet wood (game calls) might check, crack, or twist out of shape.

Drying, curing, seasoning wood all about moisture content of that wood, relative humidity, time of the year, sap running or not running. When you cut down a tree water weight exceeds wood weigh. We concern ourselves with free and bound water in the cells. Majority of moisture meter useless on a freshly cut down tree. Some could give you reading of 60 to 80%, but we know MC may exceed 100% in some species depending upon time of the year cut down.

When you process a cut down tree into turning blanks you have to decide what is going to be your bowl blanks & spindle blanks. Bowl blanks almost always want to split removing the pith. On spindle blanks I use diameter to determine whether to split or not over 7” split. Less than 7” will end seal and process more later.

Because wood loses MC 12 time faster from the ends than from side we end seal. You can use commercial end grain sealers, paraffin wax, or paint (oil or latex, poly). You want to slow down the drying process.

You need a place to store turning blanks that is out of the weather & direct sunlight with natural air circulation until ready to rough turn or more processing.

I may wait 3 or 4 months to cut spindle blanks on my bandsaw so do not gum up the blade. May or may not end seal again.

I can rough turn a lot bowl blanks in one day, but lot has to do with room in my shop. I do not put more end sealer on a rough bowl.

If scroll down to appropiate chapter will give you the science behind drying wood.
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/products/publications/several_pubs.php?grouping_id=100&header_id=p

-- Bill

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