Good tricks for sanding inside corners?

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Forum topic by diito posted 07-14-2014 08:45 AM 1299 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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22 posts in 593 days

07-14-2014 08:45 AM

Does anyone have any good tricks for sanding inside corners (and well)? I already know well enough to pre-sand everything prior to assemble and avoid having to sand them at all, but there are cases where you just can’t avoid it, re-finishing etc. In this particular case I have a headboard/footboard with shoulderless tenons going into mortises in the legs. I taped off as close as I could but I could completely tape if off as I’d end up with pieces of tape stuck where I couldn’t remove them. Pre-finsihing wasn’t an option. So I got a tiny bit of glue squeeze out which I cleaned up with a chisel plane/chisel but now I have some micro scratches from the chisel I need to sand out. I have a Festool Rotex 90 and using the detail sanding head I can get almost up again the corner but the last ~1/16th is a real pain. Sanding paper on a putty knife helps a little but the scratches are more visible v/s the areas I use the random orbit on. I’m thinking of trying a higher grit, going from 220 to 400, for just that area. I’m probably the only person that will notice but I want this thing perfect.

10 replies so far

View mrjinx007's profile


2598 posts in 768 days

#1 posted 07-14-2014 11:25 AM

Try using a new utility knife blade and apply very little pressure while scraping the marks off.


View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1946 posts in 1922 days

#2 posted 07-14-2014 12:29 PM

I find that squeeze out form Titebond liquid hide glue, if left alone to harden, will virtually disappear when finish is applied. Try it on a project or a test piece.

-- "Just my opinion, I may be right"

View Crank50's profile


161 posts in 577 days

#3 posted 07-14-2014 12:39 PM

Scraping tight corners is much better than sanding.

Sanding is just a mechanical process developed to allow un-skilled workers to produce pseudo finished goods for mass market consumption by customers who don’t know any better or couldn’t afford true hand finished goods due to the huge labor expense that would be required.

View JayT's profile (online now)


3617 posts in 1211 days

#4 posted 07-14-2014 12:59 PM

+1 on the scraping. A small card scraper works great or I’ve also used a chisel in a scraping motion for those areas.

-- "My concern is not whether God is on our side; my greatest concern is to be on God's side, for God is always right." Abraham Lincoln

View distrbd's profile


1733 posts in 1447 days

#5 posted 07-14-2014 01:12 PM

Check out Lee Valley’s sanding section in woodworking,you’ll find a few ideas that might help although I must admit I do not use them myself,I use old knives ,utility knife,chisel,rolled up sandpaper,etc.
Here is a good product LV sells(sanding stick) that might just be want you are looking for:

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View diverlloyd's profile


577 posts in 858 days

#6 posted 07-14-2014 01:52 PM

You can make your own custom block by putting some plastic wrap in the corner or what area you are going to sand then apply bondo to the topic the wrap. 5 minutes and you have a custom block. I had to use this method on my front door to remove paint. But scraping is better.

View DrDirt's profile


3372 posts in 2743 days

#7 posted 07-15-2014 07:15 PM

I use a v chisel (pfeil – sharp enough to circumsize an ant) for those times I have squeeze out inside.

I have made a scraper with a single edge razor blade.
I can take a burnisher or edge of a chisel (hard steel) and roll a hook onto it.

I usually have used the razor blade scraper to remove a drip of finish. I would put a piece of painters tape on either side of the run, then flex the razor like a small card scraper and get that drip, without accidently diggint into the rest of the surface.

Works well for leveling burn in sticks too.

Have also made sanding sticks by gluing paper to a popsicle stick or tongue depressor, then cutting the shape with Harbor Freight Scissors (buck a pair)

As others have said, scraping works better.

-- “The kind of man who wants the government to adopt and enforce his ideas is always the kind of man whose ideas are idiotic.” ― H.L. Mencken, Minority Report

View cdaniels's profile


1106 posts in 502 days

#8 posted 07-15-2014 10:54 PM

crank tell us how you really feel! I have the little sanding sticks from LV. they work pretty good

-- Jesus was a carpenter... I'm just saying

View Loren's profile


7967 posts in 2648 days

#9 posted 07-15-2014 10:56 PM

Ugh. You can fold up little squares of sandpaper to 4
layers thick and hold the thing with a hemostat.


View exelectrician's profile


2270 posts in 1428 days

#10 posted 07-16-2014 12:06 AM

I use my Bosch utility vibrating tool with the tri-corner sanding attachment. Then a stiff putty knife sharpened like a chisel 30deg with a slightly round arc on the cutting edge, I push in from both sides and then carefully scrape the glue off. Note this tactic works best when the glue (TitebondIII) is one hour into the cure.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

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