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Good tricks for sanding inside corners?

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Forum topic by diito posted 07-14-2014 08:45 AM 595 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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diito

15 posts in 244 days


07-14-2014 08:45 AM

Does anyone have any good tricks for sanding inside corners (and well)? I already know well enough to pre-sand everything prior to assemble and avoid having to sand them at all, but there are cases where you just can’t avoid it, re-finishing etc. In this particular case I have a headboard/footboard with shoulderless tenons going into mortises in the legs. I taped off as close as I could but I could completely tape if off as I’d end up with pieces of tape stuck where I couldn’t remove them. Pre-finsihing wasn’t an option. So I got a tiny bit of glue squeeze out which I cleaned up with a chisel plane/chisel but now I have some micro scratches from the chisel I need to sand out. I have a Festool Rotex 90 and using the detail sanding head I can get almost up again the corner but the last ~1/16th is a real pain. Sanding paper on a putty knife helps a little but the scratches are more visible v/s the areas I use the random orbit on. I’m thinking of trying a higher grit, going from 220 to 400, for just that area. I’m probably the only person that will notice but I want this thing perfect.


10 replies so far

View mrjinx007's profile (online now)

mrjinx007

1426 posts in 419 days


#1 posted 07-14-2014 11:25 AM

Try using a new utility knife blade and apply very little pressure while scraping the marks off.

-- earthartandfoods.com

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1676 posts in 1574 days


#2 posted 07-14-2014 12:29 PM

I find that squeeze out form Titebond liquid hide glue, if left alone to harden, will virtually disappear when finish is applied. Try it on a project or a test piece.

-- In God We Trust

View Crank50's profile

Crank50

91 posts in 228 days


#3 posted 07-14-2014 12:39 PM

Scraping tight corners is much better than sanding.

Sanding is just a mechanical process developed to allow un-skilled workers to produce pseudo finished goods for mass market consumption by customers who don’t know any better or couldn’t afford true hand finished goods due to the huge labor expense that would be required.

View JayT's profile

JayT

2256 posts in 863 days


#4 posted 07-14-2014 12:59 PM

+1 on the scraping. A small card scraper works great or I’ve also used a chisel in a scraping motion for those areas.

-- "The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money." Alexis de Tocqueville, 1835

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distrbd

1108 posts in 1098 days


#5 posted 07-14-2014 01:12 PM

Check out Lee Valley’s sanding section in woodworking,you’ll find a few ideas that might help although I must admit I do not use them myself,I use old knives ,utility knife,chisel,rolled up sandpaper,etc.
Here is a good product LV sells(sanding stick) that might just be want you are looking for:

-- Ken from Ontario

View diverlloyd's profile

diverlloyd

275 posts in 509 days


#6 posted 07-14-2014 01:52 PM

You can make your own custom block by putting some plastic wrap in the corner or what area you are going to sand then apply bondo to the topic the wrap. 5 minutes and you have a custom block. I had to use this method on my front door to remove paint. But scraping is better.

View DrDirt's profile

DrDirt

2439 posts in 2394 days


#7 posted 07-15-2014 07:15 PM

I use a v chisel (pfeil – sharp enough to circumsize an ant) for those times I have squeeze out inside.

I have made a scraper with a single edge razor blade.
I can take a burnisher or edge of a chisel (hard steel) and roll a hook onto it.

I usually have used the razor blade scraper to remove a drip of finish. I would put a piece of painters tape on either side of the run, then flex the razor like a small card scraper and get that drip, without accidently diggint into the rest of the surface.

Works well for leveling burn in sticks too.

Have also made sanding sticks by gluing paper to a popsicle stick or tongue depressor, then cutting the shape with Harbor Freight Scissors (buck a pair)

As others have said, scraping works better.

-- "If we did all the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astonish ourselves." Edison

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cdaniels

637 posts in 153 days


#8 posted 07-15-2014 10:54 PM

crank tell us how you really feel! I have the little sanding sticks from LV. they work pretty good

-- Jesus was a carpenter... I'm just saying

View Loren's profile

Loren

7545 posts in 2300 days


#9 posted 07-15-2014 10:56 PM

Ugh. You can fold up little squares of sandpaper to 4
layers thick and hold the thing with a hemostat.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View exelectrician's profile

exelectrician

1558 posts in 1079 days


#10 posted 07-16-2014 12:06 AM

I use my Bosch utility vibrating tool with the tri-corner sanding attachment. Then a stiff putty knife sharpened like a chisel 30deg with a slightly round arc on the cutting edge, I push in from both sides and then carefully scrape the glue off. Note this tactic works best when the glue (TitebondIII) is one hour into the cure.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

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