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Forum topic by Mark2457 posted 07-10-2014 08:51 PM 990 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mark2457

49 posts in 1045 days


07-10-2014 08:51 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw question

Hi All

This is my first decent saw. Had a well-used BT3000 previously. I bought the 35990C a few months ago and my wife bought me an Incra fence system for a birthday gift.

I finally got it all setup last week

I find the anti kickback pawls terrible. They just fly off all the time. Of course I could be attaching it wrong as the manual is god awful. Surely they can a afford a few hundred bucks for an English speaker. I push the “bar” into the elongated slot, rotate the front down toward the blade and tighten the thumbscrew as tight as I can. As soon as I put a piece of lumber through it, they just fly off

Finally, it seems underpowered. I was ripping about 1/4 inch off a 2-inch thick piece of oak and the blade frequently stops completely. I don’t feel I was feeding too fast. (Naturally, I replaced the crappy supplied blade—with a diablo). It’s wired to a dedicated 20A circuit. (I’ll be switching over to 240v soon, as I’m running 50A to garage at weekend, but I don’t think this will help)

Anyone else having these issues?

Regards

Mark


21 replies so far

View SASmith               's profile

SASmith

1850 posts in 2448 days


#1 posted 07-10-2014 08:58 PM

Are you sure that it is a (under)power issue and not the belt slipping?

-- Scott Smith, Southern Illinois

View jonah's profile

jonah

687 posts in 2760 days


#2 posted 07-10-2014 09:10 PM

Either that or a misaligned fence. Even a relatively modest 32nd of an inch toe-in at the back of the fence can make it virtually impossible to push a piece through.

Not to mention insanely dangerous.

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Mark2457

49 posts in 1045 days


#3 posted 07-10-2014 09:14 PM



Are you sure that it is a (under)power issue and not the belt slipping?

- SASmith

I hear a slight squeal when the motor starts up, but it definitely sounds like the motor stopped when the blade stopped. Unfortunately, I don’t feel safe leaning over to look in side the base while holding a piece of stuck wood :-)

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Mark2457

49 posts in 1045 days


#4 posted 07-10-2014 09:15 PM



Either that or a misaligned fence. Even a relatively modest 32nd of an inch toe-in at the back of the fence can make it virtually impossible to push a piece through.

Not to mention insanely dangerous.

- jonah

I did check the blade to miter slot and miter slot to fence alignment. It’s within a few 1/1000’s. If that was the issue, surely it would do it on thin stock too?

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7209 posts in 2836 days


#5 posted 07-10-2014 09:33 PM

50T is a lot for 2” thick material. Do you have a 24T rip blade?

I’d also check the belt tension, belt placement on the pulleys, and the pulley alignment with each other.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2735 posts in 2038 days


#6 posted 07-10-2014 09:50 PM

Belt tension is where I’d be looking first.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

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Mark2457

49 posts in 1045 days


#7 posted 07-10-2014 10:14 PM


50T is a lot for 2” thick material. Do you have a 24T rip blade?

I d also check the belt tension, belt placement on the pulleys, and the pulley alignment with each other.

- knotscott

Currently have a 80T blade. It’s probably less than 1/8th. The amount coming off on the left of the blade is wafer thin. There’s nothing in the user guide about belt tensioning and I wouldn’t know what’s right (yet). If it was the belt, wouldn’t I hear the motor still running?

View retfr8flyr's profile

retfr8flyr

327 posts in 1130 days


#8 posted 07-10-2014 10:23 PM

You’re cutting 2 inch oak with an 80 tooth blade and 1½ HP saw? It’s no wonder that it’s stopping. Get a decent 24 tooth rip blade and see how it does.

-- Earl

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knotscott

7209 posts in 2836 days


#9 posted 07-10-2014 10:50 PM

50T is a lot for 2” thick material. Do you have a 24T rip blade?

I d also check the belt tension, belt placement on the pulleys, and the pulley alignment with each other.

- knotscott

Currently have a 80T blade. It s probably less than 1/8th. The amount coming off on the left of the blade is wafer thin. There s nothing in the user guide about belt tensioning and I wouldn t know what s right (yet). If it was the belt, wouldn t I hear the motor still running?

- Mark2457

Even worse….by a lot! Ripping 2” oak with an 80T fine crosscut/plywood blade is total mismatch for the task. Most saws are under powered for that. Try a 24T thin kerf blade like Earl suggested. If you’re still having trouble, then something is wrong with the saw.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Ocelot's profile

Ocelot

1470 posts in 2099 days


#10 posted 07-11-2014 12:35 AM

Fewer teeth is what you need. +1 for knotscott and Earl.

A Freud Thin Kerf Rip blade will make an amazing difference.

I use both
LM75R010 (30 tooth) and LU87R010 (24 tooth – flat tooth, square kerf).

The 24 tooth LU87R010 is ideal for your appication and is only $38 with free shipping from Amazon.

It’s worth the time to change the blade for even one cut.

-Paul

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Paul

721 posts in 1026 days


#11 posted 07-11-2014 01:46 AM

I have the same saw, with the correct blades I haven’t found anything it can’t cut. I’ve never had my motor bog down once. Fewer teeth for thick stock like recommended above should do the trick.

Paul

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Mark2457

49 posts in 1045 days


#12 posted 07-11-2014 02:05 AM

Thanks guys

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Mark2457

49 posts in 1045 days


#13 posted 07-11-2014 02:08 AM



Fewer teeth is what you need. +1 for knotscott and Earl.

A Freud Thin Kerf Rip blade will make an amazing difference.

I use both
LM75R010 (30 tooth) and LU87R010 (24 tooth – flat tooth, square kerf).

The 24 tooth LU87R010 is ideal for your appication and is only $38 with free shipping from Amazon.

It s worth the time to change the blade for even one cut.

-Paul

- Ocelot

hey Paul
Have you used thin kerf on this saw? Steel city couldn’t tell me thickness of riving knife

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Paul

721 posts in 1026 days


#14 posted 07-11-2014 02:13 AM

I don’t remember the mm of the stock riving knife off the top of my head I can get it to you tomorrow. But it should be marked on the right side of the knife if your looking at the saw from the front.

Paul

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Mark2457

49 posts in 1045 days


#15 posted 07-11-2014 02:18 AM

I just measured the riving knife aand its 0.099

The Freud thin kerf has a .094 kerf, so it’s not going to work is it?

showing 1 through 15 of 21 replies

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