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Best way to achieve a low-angle taper on a 3 inch board?

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Forum topic by one60fourth posted 07-10-2014 04:02 PM 376 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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one60fourth

2 posts in 245 days


07-10-2014 04:02 PM

I’m trying to devise a quick and accurate way to create two low-angle tapers that start at opposing ends of a short board and meet in the middle. A side view of this component would look like a low-angle peaked roof of a house. I have a jig for tapering narrow table legs on the table saw but a table saw won’t work with this new project because the circular blade won’t give me a nice straight “peak” where the two tapers meet. The board I’m working with is 8”L x 3”W x 3/4”T. The completed taper would have a 3/4” peak with the rest of the board (on both sides of the peak) sloping down to 1/4” thick at the ends of the board. I’ve been thinking that maybe there’s a way to utilize several passes through my jointer to do this. I’d have to use some kind of jig of course. I could hand plane the tapers but I’m not very proficient yet with a hand plane so it would take more time than I can afford. Any ideas would be appreciated!


3 replies so far

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Loren

7550 posts in 2301 days


#1 posted 07-10-2014 04:09 PM

Something that short I would mark the ends, center and
sides, take off the waste, probably with a band saw but
a drawknife or making several relief cuts and going at the
waste with a chisel would work too. If you only have
a table saw, you could make an angled fixture to make
the relief cuts without changing the blade depth. Make
them about an inch apart and the waste will pop off
with a chisel. Then go close to the lines with hand planes
or coarse rasp. If you need precision and you don’t
feel you can do it with a plane, glue or double-stick tape
a piece of coarse sandpaper to a piece of MDF or similar
flat material. This is a “sanding board”, a sort of poor
man’s belt sander, and very accurate.

I would make the relief cuts with a hand saw, personally.
Good practice on sawing to even depth with one line
you can see and the other on the opposite site. You’ll
do a lot of that if/when you get into cutting dovetails.

Another way to make relief cuts or almost remove all the
material is, using a crosscut sled of fence attached
to your miter gauge, glue, tape or nail a 1/2” thick
piece to the middle of the board. Set the blade to just
shy of 1/2” high on the table saw. The attached 1/2”
shim acts as a fulcrum. Don’t cut the last 3/16” or
so off the end. You can remove all the waste in between
making about 8 table saw cuts to the inch, or use a
dado blade but that just adds more setup time.

This is a variant of so-called “speed tenons”.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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one60fourth

2 posts in 245 days


#2 posted 07-10-2014 05:12 PM

Thanks Loren. All good ideas. I like the speed tenon variant best. I think it would be both the most accurate and leave me with a fairly smooth surface ready for sanding. I’ll give it a try.

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bondogaposis

2528 posts in 1004 days


#3 posted 07-10-2014 07:29 PM

I guess I would do that on the band saw. By first drawing the lines on the board and sawing and resawing close to the line and then hand planing it smooth.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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