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Craftsman Miter saw calibration

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Forum topic by daveysprocket posted 01-27-2009 07:23 PM 4048 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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daveysprocket

40 posts in 2075 days


01-27-2009 07:23 PM

Topic tags/keywords: miter saw

I’m new here and thought this might be a place to get some help. I was given a 10” Craftsman dual bevel sliding compound miter saw for Christmas last year. I adjusted the saw according to the directions for 90 deg. in both the horizontal and vertical, but when I try to crosscut at 45 deg., it is very off. Does anyone know how to set the detents on the table so that it is exactly 45 deg in either direction. It doesn’t appear to be in the manual, and the salesmen at Sears are not really any help. Any suggestions would be appreciated.


6 replies so far

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lew

10061 posts in 2422 days


#1 posted 01-27-2009 07:42 PM

Do you have a model number?

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

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thinker1

31 posts in 2074 days


#2 posted 01-29-2009 05:19 PM

most of the craftsman saw are made by tradesman and gmc they are very simler in design the only thing they change is color or look but working stay the same you could try there sites if you can not get any help for sears

-- happy wife great life!!!!!!

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daveysprocket

40 posts in 2075 days


#3 posted 01-29-2009 05:37 PM

Last night, I tried to adjust it according to the manual. It turns out my 90 was a little off. You have to loosen 4 bolts behind the fence and the instructions say the fence rotates. As far as I can tell, the only rotation is the very slight play in the bolt holes. I got it a little closer, but not yet there and it doesn’t seem to be able to adjust more. I really want to make picture frames, but am getting a little frustrated. If a 45 is a little off, it is multiplied by 2 when trying to make a 90. I’ll look into your suggestions. Any more are greatly appreciated.

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Tom Adamski

306 posts in 2438 days


#4 posted 01-29-2009 05:53 PM

Good luck with your search for info on your saw. Since all are a little different, it would be a crap shoot for me to tell you how I square my 12” Delta. However, two things I’d like to suggest. One, use an accurate square when you set the blade to the fence. Personally I’m a fan of Starrett. Two, to test the accuracy, follow this proceedure using a scrap piece of wood about 12” long and 6” wide. Make sure the 12” long sides are parallel.

Set blade to 90 degrees.
Cut the piece of wood in the middle while it is firmly up against the fence.
Take both pieces over to your table saw, or jointer and stand them on the edge that was up against the fence.
Obviously if you push the two cut ends together, they will mate since they are both cut together, but if you flip one side over and push them back together, it will reveal a gap if you are off.

Hope this helps…

Tom

-- Anybody can become a woodworker, but only a Craftsman can hide his mistakes.

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Tom Adamski

306 posts in 2438 days


#5 posted 01-29-2009 05:58 PM

In addition, I would not reccomend a miter saw for picture frames. Even with a 96 tooth or higher blade, it will eventually wreck your work. Make a good quality miter sled for your table saw. If using a miter saw is the only way to go, back up the cut with other wood to support the cut.

Tom

-- Anybody can become a woodworker, but only a Craftsman can hide his mistakes.

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daveysprocket

40 posts in 2075 days


#6 posted 01-29-2009 06:12 PM

I’m sorry to hear that I can’t use my miter saw to make accurate cuts. I have an 80 tooth w/ zero clearance insert and backup board. I suppose I could use my table saw if I had to. Of course the sled would have to be accurately calibrated too.

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