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Forum topic by Woodwrecker posted 23 days ago 549 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Woodwrecker's profile

Woodwrecker

3566 posts in 2180 days


23 days ago

Question for my power tool buddies.

I know at least a couple of you have this same machine.

My 14” Sears Band Saw.
New blade.
Guides all set just right.
No obstructions.
Everything set JUST right.

When I turn it on, it seems a little slow starting up but does get up to speed.
BUT, when I begin to push a board through it to cut it, even a moderate amount of feed pressure will slow the blade down to a stop.
When I release the feed pressure, it will get going again.
This never happened before.
The machine is about 5 or 6 years old and has served well.

Question:
What do you think ? Brushes ?

It isn’t electrical feed, as other machines work fine on that cord.
And save the “get a new machine” comments. The boss says that’s not in the cards right now…

Thanks for your help.
Eric

Thanks a bunch

-- Having fun...Eric


15 replies so far

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

1399 posts in 325 days


#1 posted 23 days ago

It doesn’t have brushes, so that’s not a possibility. Did you check the belt tension? Does it get up to speed slowly if the blade is off the saw? You could have a failing capacitor which can be checked with a digital multimeter with such capabilities or a motor shop could check it for you.

View UpstateNYdude's profile

UpstateNYdude

421 posts in 587 days


#2 posted 23 days ago

+1 to what Yeti said my grandfathers had a bad cap which caused similar symptoms, good luck.

-- Nick, “Discovering the truth about ourselves is a lifetime's work, but it's worth the effort.” ― Fred Rogers, Be My Neighbor

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

11099 posts in 1710 days


#3 posted 23 days ago

It’s fixable!!
When you put a board through it and the blade stops, is the motor still running at regular speed?

Boy, I have had nothing but problems with my sears lathe motors. Looking at your motor it does not have brushes. It probably has a starting capacitor to bump it to get it started and my lathe has a run capacitor also to keep it running. I don’t know if a weak run capacitor will make it run slow?? Check if you have 2 capacitors?? They can be removed and checked at a motor shop. A trick I learned when my Sears capacitors continued to blow out every 6 months was to get one with the same capacitance but double the voltage. I did that and the last one is in there 5 years now! I bought it at a motor shop for $8.80 instead of $26 at Sears I found the armature on my lathe was out of center on mine and had to turn it down because it was rubbing on the field windings and heating up.

But yours might not be in the motor!!
Check the belt for tightness first. Then check both pulleys to see if one is slipping on the shaft- like a key fell out or a loose set screw. Also look at it when you turn it on to see if it running full speed when the blade is running slow. If the motor runs full speed you can eliminate it and look and the belt system for the loss in speed.
Please let us know what you find??
............Cheers, Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15670 posts in 2822 days


#4 posted 23 days ago

I was thinking capacitor even before I read the other responses.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View nomercadies's profile

nomercadies

498 posts in 943 days


#5 posted 23 days ago

I need to watch this.

-- Chance Four "Not Just a Second Chance"

View MrUnix's profile (online now)

MrUnix

465 posts in 803 days


#6 posted 23 days ago

Check that everything turns freely by hand, with and without the blade installed. Do the same with the drive belt on and off. With belt off, make sure motor turns freely. That should at least isolate your problem to either the saw or the motor. It does sound like the motor though.. If all the easy stuff above checks out, I’d open it up and test the capacitor and centrifugal switch.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Bricofleur's profile

Bricofleur

1118 posts in 1797 days


#7 posted 23 days ago

I can’t be with any help here my friend. However, I wish you’ll find the problem soon, free your mind, be happy and sleep well.

Best wishes,

Serge

PS: While writing I came up with the idea of blowing the motor to get any sawdust out. But you probably have done it !!!

-- Learn from yesterday, work today and enjoy success tomorrow. -- http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com

View Grumpy's profile

Grumpy

19326 posts in 2455 days


#8 posted 23 days ago

I had a problem like that with my bandsaw. It turned out to be the wrong blade
This may not be your problem as you have had your machine for a while but I did find the bigger teeth & a lower TPI made an enormous difference.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

View Woodwrecker's profile

Woodwrecker

3566 posts in 2180 days


#9 posted 23 days ago

Thank you all very much.
I think I may have gotten some lubricant on the belt when I was applying it after setting the guides & everything.
I can’t hear a difference in the motor (as deaf as I am…lol) when the blade slows down. So I think the belt may have been slipping.
I cleaned it as best I could with some mineral spirits and will leave the cabinet door open tonight to let it air out.
Thank you all again.
I’ve never met most of you, but I sure count you as my friends.
Eric

-- Having fun...Eric

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

1015 posts in 1051 days


#10 posted 23 days ago

is the motor wired for 110volts or 220v?

-- Ken from Ontario

View Grumpy's profile

Grumpy

19326 posts in 2455 days


#11 posted 23 days ago

Wrecker, please let us know if that fixed the problem

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

View Woodwrecker's profile

Woodwrecker

3566 posts in 2180 days


#12 posted 23 days ago

SOLVED !!!
I am one of those guys who goes nuts until a problem is fixed.
And, thanks to you all here, I had more things to check.
I went back out there and cleaned the hell out of the belt, re-tracked the belt in the grooved pulleys just right and tensioned it more.
And WHAMO, it works like new !!
THANK YOU AGAIN MY BROTHERS.
Tomorrow is going to see some re-sawing for some drawer fronts.

Thank you all very much again !!!

-- Having fun...Eric

View Grumpy's profile

Grumpy

19326 posts in 2455 days


#13 posted 23 days ago

Good news Wrecker.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

3623 posts in 1769 days


#14 posted 23 days ago

Glad to see you solved your problem, don’t think you need any more advice.

But, just for future reference:

I think you can get link belts for most things, and they run smoother with less fuss. I put one on my old Delta Contractor’s saw, and got some cast pulleys as well. Then rewired it for 220V, and use good blades. It runs very smooth. I still have to buy a decent band saw for here in Anchorage. I have a modest 14” Grizzly in La Conner, and it runs beautifully.

Got home from La Conner this weekend, vacation was too short, and I am already busy at work again. The weather has been good in Anchorage and La Conner, so no matter where I am it is nice.

Have a good one…............

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View hoss12992's profile

hoss12992

2469 posts in 497 days


#15 posted 23 days ago

If you did get some lubricate on the wheels/belt, and I know you said you cleaned them, but a trick that I used on a old bandsaw I recently picked up at a estate sale, was I sprayed some non slip on it, which you pick up at a auto part store, and its a cheap fix, especially if the tires on the wheels are starting to get a bit loose. I took off the tires, and sprayed it on the wheels, and then put the tires back on, and bam, problem fixed. Hope you get it going soon buddy

-- The Old Rednek Workshop https://www.facebook.com/theoldrednekworkshoptn

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