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Millers Falls No. 1 Hand Drill Restoration: Need Advise

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Forum topic by bloqbeta posted 07-05-2014 06:03 PM 1404 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bloqbeta

19 posts in 1635 days


07-05-2014 06:03 PM

Hello to everyone,

I need advise on restoring my new Millers Falls No. 1 Hand Drill. I have successfully disassemble most of the drill, But I am having trouble on two things:

1. I need advise on the handle and ferrule. The Ferrule is seated firmly on the wooden handle, I tried to loosen it by hand and grabbing it in my vise with a piece of leather without any luck.

Should I exert additional force to loosen the ferrule? Is the ferrule sturdy enough as not to get deformed?

2. in the spindle housing I found four ball bearings and the spindle seats on these four bearrings, there is not a plate between these four bearings and the spindle. Is this correct? I haven’t found any diagram or a disassembled drill.

3. Under this four bearings, it looks that there is a trust plate and it spins, like if there actually more bearings under that plate. Has someone disassembled the spindle housing and describe its assembly? please see photo below

4. What oil or grease do you recommend for lubrication? I have 3 in 1 SAE 20 Motor oil, that I think would be perfect for this application. What do you think?

Thanks for you help

-- Ebanisteria Sabrosona


6 replies so far

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Deycart

444 posts in 1725 days


#1 posted 07-05-2014 06:57 PM

I have not take apart a No. 1, but some models do have a little plate that goes in there. They are typically breast drills and they take much more force when being used. You could probably cut out a little brass plate or find a brass washer to put in there as an upgrade.

As for lubrication I use 3 in 1 for covered areas like the ball bearings where your not really going to get sawdust. the gears I like to use a dry lubricant like the WD-40 stuff or graphite powder.

TIP: You should polish that shaft that sticks up from the frame and the mating hole. Make sure not to use course sandpaper 400 grit+ your polishing not shaping. This will really make it sing! You can wrap the paper round a dowel and use a rubber band on both ends to clean out the gear. Don’t forget to get the flat area where the gear rest too.

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Deycart

444 posts in 1725 days


#2 posted 07-05-2014 06:59 PM

Oh one more thing. It can be a pain to take apart the chuck. Most of the time I don’t bother and just let it sit in some purple power(you can get this stuff in any auto store) full strength for a few hours rinse and repeat until it opens really easy. Then dry it using a heat gun or hairdryer. After that lube it up with a dry lube and your good.

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bloqbeta

19 posts in 1635 days


#3 posted 07-05-2014 08:57 PM

Hi Deycart,

I will certainly polish all surfaces I can, I want this one to shine since it is in excelent condition. I did not had any problem with the springless chuck, it was easy to take apart. and am derusting all the parts right now. I havenĀ“t thought on the lubricant for the chuck. I will go look for the dry lubricant, I hope I can find it since I am not in the states, but in Guatemala.

I had problems with the gear lever, the ferrule came cracked and in the cleaning it has started to pull apart. I would need to find a replacement or find a way to keep the thing together.

-- Ebanisteria Sabrosona

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Deycart

444 posts in 1725 days


#4 posted 07-05-2014 09:19 PM

Some people use a bit of brass or copper pipe to replace a split ferrule. Use a file to round over the end near the lever and it looks pretty good. It’s really hard to find one that is not split.

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bloqbeta

19 posts in 1635 days


#5 posted 07-06-2014 04:27 AM

I got the ferrule and i am getting everything polished. Tomorrow I will continue with the wood handles and painting the frame and crank drive

-- Ebanisteria Sabrosona

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Tim

3119 posts in 1429 days


#6 posted 07-06-2014 06:37 PM

Thanks for the good info. If you’re willing to put up a blog explaining some of this stuff for the lesser experienced it wouldn’t go unappreciated.

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