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Forum topic by Gixxerjoe04 posted 07-03-2014 10:13 PM 523 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Gixxerjoe04

288 posts in 230 days


07-03-2014 10:13 PM

After getting some redwood and buckeye burl, not knowing really about stabilizing wood and having a little redwood bowl blow up on me, figure i need to get it done. It costs $10.50 a pound, what I’m trying to figure out is how much weight will blanks put on roughly, I guess. I cut up blanks for duck/deer calls(11), a couple bottle stoppers and a bunch of pen blanks, enough to fill a medium size flat rate box just about. Is there a good way to guess what weight it’ll be after being stabilized so i know what to expect to pay?

Also was wondering about pen blank sizes, I just got my mandrel today so haven’t even turned a pen yet. Most of the blanks I cut were 3/4-7/8 square and long enough, but on some of my blanks I didn’t have much left but was able to get 1/2inch square out of them, is that too small for pens or anything really? Would it be a waste to send it off to get stabilized.


7 replies so far

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TheDane

3779 posts in 2316 days


#1 posted 07-03-2014 11:22 PM

Don’t know anything about stabilizing wood, but as far as pen blanks go, 1/2” is enough if you drill carefully and your bit doesn’t wander. You need a good quality drill bit (e.g. Whiteside, Fisch, etc.) ... the cheaper bits are more likely to wander. Take your time drilling, back out to clear chips, etc.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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Gixxerjoe04

288 posts in 230 days


#2 posted 07-03-2014 11:31 PM

That’s another problem i just thought of last night as i was going to bed thinking about woodworking haha. I just have a bench top drill press, which isn’t going to work with blanks longer than like 4-5 inches. I assume it’ll be alright to rough out a call blank between centers and chuck it up and drill it on that, afraid of it not being perfectly straight.

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TheDane

3779 posts in 2316 days


#3 posted 07-04-2014 12:07 AM

Actually, your best tool for drilling may be the lathe … check it down to its lowest speed, chuck up your drill bit in a Jacobs chuck, chuck the blank in your scroll chuck, and proceed slowly.

I have a shop-made drilling jig that I use on my drill press …
Click for details
... but I drill blanks for 25 pens at a time … drilling them on the lathe would be time consuming (my lathe’s quill only extends 2 inches). For one or two blanks at a time, the lathe is a good way to go.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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Wildwood

1037 posts in 788 days


#4 posted 07-04-2014 11:31 AM

Hard to recommend you go through with stabilization process without seeing pictures of the wood. While have seen many bottle stoppers, game calls, and pen blanks stabilized never seen stabilized bowl blanks. Can only guess you would be money ahead buying small blanks already stabilized from vendors that sell them.

Gerry is right on the money drilling your blanks on your lathe if do not want to buy a bigger drill press. A drill chuck and appropriate jaws in your chuck will work just fine. Have to develop a rhythm clearing chips, drilling, and moving tailstock if necessary.

I have both a bench & floor model DP and use both when making pens. Use the bench top DP for squaring up pen barrels with a pen mill, and floor model for drilling blanks.

You would save yourself time and money improving your turning and sharpening skills. Been turning a long time and still send wood to firewood pile. I use few choice words about myself or wood, then move on to the next piece.

For tips, trick, and techniques on pen turning go hang out here. If you really want stabilized blanks can find and learn procedures stabilizing blanks here too!

http://www.penturners.org/forum/

Too many free how to turn bowl videos on the web to recommend just one place.

If click on my “projects,” page will see a vase wanted to send to the firewood pile before wife stopped me. If around long enough will find a way to hide mistakes.

-- Bill

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Gixxerjoe04

288 posts in 230 days


#5 posted 07-04-2014 12:49 PM

I’m not getting bowl blanks stabilized, figured that wouldn’t be cost effective so I just cut my stuff into those blanks. Here’s a pic of my stuff I’m sending, there’s a couple pieces of marbles Claro walnut as well, it was extremely light and figured I’d have the same problem as I did with the redwood, successfully made a bottle stopper from a redwood blank but also had one break beyond repair. Thought it was really pretty stuff and don’t want to be wasting it with bad chip out and breaking.

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Wildwood

1037 posts in 788 days


#6 posted 07-04-2014 09:30 PM

I would only send a couple pen blanks off to stabilization instead of everything in the picture. If wood is chipping might try using CA glue as you turn those blanks. Simply apply on entire blank, let dry, turn reapply as needed during turning process. Slight wait allows CA to sink into wood pores hardening some what. I have used medium CA on some spalted blanks that way.

-- Bill

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TheDane

3779 posts in 2316 days


#7 posted 07-04-2014 10:56 PM

Suggest you avoid the temptation to spray accelerator on the CA to speed drying. CA is brittle anyway, and using accelerator can lead to the finish cracking down the road. Don’t ask me how I know this.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

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