Resawing on bandsaw HELP!

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Forum topic by eldaneo posted 07-02-2014 11:42 PM 996 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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5 posts in 1628 days

07-02-2014 11:42 PM

I just invested in the Wood Slicer from highland woodworking for my 14” Grizzly G0555LANV. Before this blade I was using a 4TPI 1/2” blade from a local blade shop. I was able to resaw my large 8/4 stock with relative ease, and there were very little issues.

Now, it seems that I am unable to resaw in a straight line, even free hand. I get so much blade drift it’s insane. Here’s what I’ve done in my setup for the Wood Slicer, and my previous blade, I desperately need help to fix this issue!!

1. Blade is square with the table. —Performed the WWGOA trick to test if the cuts are perpendicular, and adjusted accordingly.

2. Fence adjusted to the drift in the wood slicer.

3. Guide bushings are as close as possible without touching the blade top and bottom.

4. Blade is tensioned properly (or at least I think) 1/4” give when pushed with thumb.

5. The stock has one straight edge, cut with Festool Track saw.

6. Stock has one straight face, which is lined up along my resaw fence I made, which worked perfectly well with the previous blade.

What have I done to mess this up?

Here are what the cuts look like free hand….. :furious: I am resawing a 10” piece of 6/4. And I get this insane amount of movement on the bottom of the cut.

Top of piece:

Bottom of piece:

As you can see from the bottom piece photo, the cut moves from the right to left. I didn’t want to cut down the center, I wanted to cut off center.

Please help!


7 replies so far

View bigblockyeti's profile


5140 posts in 1747 days

#1 posted 07-02-2014 11:49 PM

What are the specs on the woodslicer you bought? You mentioned what the previous blade was, but if the woodslicer has much more cross section area you might not be able to achieve enough tension to keep it cutting straight.

View eldaneo's profile


5 posts in 1628 days

#2 posted 07-02-2014 11:50 PM

I purchased the 105” woodslicer to fit my Grizzly with the riser block.

View jmartel's profile


7956 posts in 2177 days

#3 posted 07-02-2014 11:57 PM

Blade width and TPI? You listed your old one as a 1/2” 4tpi but didn’t mention the new one.

Are you holding the workpiece tight against the fence before you start cutting? I have found that I get a bit of drift like that if I don’t hold the workpiece completely tight against the fence just as I start cutting as the saw blade deflects.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View eldaneo's profile


5 posts in 1628 days

#4 posted 07-03-2014 12:00 AM

Yes, the 1/2” 3-4 TPI wood slicer blade. They do a skip tooth blade.

I am holding the piece the exact same as I did with my other blade. Just getting MEGA drift.

View bigblockyeti's profile


5140 posts in 1747 days

#5 posted 07-03-2014 12:09 AM

I use a 1 1/4” wide, 0.042” thick 1.3 TPI blade on my saw and I can get it pretty tight and still have it drift. I have to get it extremely tight and it goes away provided everything else is properly adjusted

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2658 posts in 2949 days

#6 posted 07-03-2014 12:23 AM

When I used a 1/2” Woodslicer resaw blade re-sawing 8” boards it cut straight and true with a standard non adjustable resaw fence. As the blade dulled it would wonder as yours has done. A new sharp blade will cut true. I use a lot more tension on my blade than you describe you use on yours. ( Less than 1/8” deflection when pressed to one side.) I no longer buy Woodslicer blades because while they cut very well they dull way too quickly for me . I now use Grizzly 5/8” carbide resaw blade.

-- Website is No PHD just a DD214 and a GED

View eldaneo's profile


5 posts in 1628 days

#7 posted 07-03-2014 01:33 AM

Thanks Jim. Are you saying that you recommend more tension? What’s the benefit?

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