Planer blades and use

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Forum topic by giser3546 posted 06-30-2014 07:32 PM 723 views 0 times favorited 1 reply Add to Favorites Watch
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179 posts in 1647 days

06-30-2014 07:32 PM

I’m entering the final stages of refurbishing a 20” Sunhill planer that was given to me a few weeks ago. In case you’ve missed some of my older posts is’t taken a good bit of work and I’m hoping that I’m seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. I’ve adjusted all the rollers within 0.001”, I’ve changed the gear box oil and inspected all gears and bearings, I’ve purchased a Delta dust collector, and had some mechanical work done on the motor.

Currently I’m a little worried about the motor. When it came to me the keyway on the motor shaft had been partially stripped and the key mangled beyond recognition. After getting quotes from machine shops all nearing the cost of a new motor I found a guy who gave me a high but acceptable price. The work kept getting delayed and took nearly two weeks before it was returned to me fixed but with a slight wobble in the pulley, and as a result I was not charged. The pulley does not move when the shaft is stationary, but when turned a slight wobble is visible that is probably about 1/16” side to side. Pretty sure this was caused by the machine being run with a stripped motor shaft. At least at the time I consoled myself with the fact that the belts going to the motor are quite long and should be able to absorb the movement but now I’m not too sure. Is this something that will cause pulleys to fly apart and belts to rip under the sheer unbalanced weight? Or was I right thinking the belts will help out a little with this issue?

2nd of all my concentration now goes to the stuck kickback teeth. All of the kickback teeth do not move freely as they should. This problem has been difficult to diagnose since the kickback teeth are covered by the chip breaker. While I’ve found plenty of information on adjusting the height of the chip breaker I can’t find anything on removing it to get a look at what is causing my kickback teeth issue. If I can’t get a better look I’ll be hitting it with some gun scrubber which will evaporate cleanly and breakup any pitch. I have also considered using some dry Teflon based lubricant since oils are not recommended due to their dust collecting habits.

Lastly I have to move onto my blades. My planing experience is entirely comprised of hand tools. Usually I will remove the blade and try to shave hair off the back of my hand, failing that I try to push it across my thumbnail hoping it resists movement, failing both of those I don’t use it until its sharpened again. Should my 20” planer blades be kept to the same standard? How can I tell if any of the blades (I was given 17 blades in different degrees of dullness) are sharp enough even for a test run?

I apologize for the long post but I am ready to start building and want to get this done but at the same time I want to make sure this machine will last.

-- "If you wait for it to rain, It will"

1 reply so far

View pintodeluxe's profile


5783 posts in 2988 days

#1 posted 06-30-2014 07:47 PM

Blades are changed when performance begins to suffer. You might notice the boards aren’t feeding well, or there is more tearout than normal.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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