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Just purchased a table saw and need to get it outfitted for use.

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Forum topic by 1voyager1 posted 06-25-2014 05:18 AM 1105 views 0 times favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1voyager1

24 posts in 89 days


06-25-2014 05:18 AM

Topic tags/keywords: shop-vac sawdust dust chute flex-hose adapter table saw

I just purchased a Ridgid R4512.
I thank you folks for your threads and postings on the blade shift defect found on this saw.
They helped me to get a good one.
It turned out to be a major undertaking.
I had to make an all day round-trip trip across the island to check out the only other R4512 supposedly on the island.
Finally, I found one with a Mfg. code of EM1341 back here on this side that they had hidden away.
I had to brow beat them into selling it to me.
It checks out to be a good one!

So, now I need to get my shop-vac hooked up to the dust chute.
Somewhere in my chasing info on this saw prior to buying it, I saw something about hooking up a 2-1/2” shop-vac hose to the chute using a short length of 4” flexible duct that would snap into a shape and a 4” to 2-1/2” adapter.
Anyone know where I can acquire these items?

-- Every mighty oak is nothing more than a nut that has stood it's ground.


24 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5463 posts in 2032 days


#1 posted 06-25-2014 09:26 AM

Most woodworking stores will have some sort of vac adapters….Rockler, Woodcraft, Grizzly, Amazon, Hartville Tool, Highland, etc.

Get the saw aligned, and fit it with a proper blade (one that’s better than the stock blade….Freud Diablo or Irwin Marples are both excellent values). Enjoy!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

323 posts in 1506 days


#2 posted 06-25-2014 12:09 PM

Voyager, take a look at Woodworker’s supply, I’ve had great experience with them for pricing & customer service, there’s really not much you can’t get from them, but I’m clueless what shipping to Hawaii would cost comparatively.

-- Sssshhhh, I'm pretending to be working

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

830 posts in 143 days


#3 posted 06-25-2014 12:41 PM

If you haven’t checked miter slot to bade and miter slot to fence alignment yet, it is well worth the time. Nothing quite like a finely tuned saw.

-- "We build our workshops. Then we enjoy the fruits of our labor by laboring for more fruits." - Me

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1voyager1

24 posts in 89 days


#4 posted 06-25-2014 11:33 PM

OK, I’m making progress, ... somewhat.
Woodworker’s Supply sounds familiar.
I think they were the place suggested by the guy that made the setup I am trying to imitate.
But, I couldn’t find semi-rigid flex ducting there.
So, I went back to Amazon and found everything I need [I think] to get the dust collection set up.
They do look to be cheaper than Woodworker’s when everything is tallied up.
I’m just waiting for answers to a couple of questions to be sure the adapter/reducer will do the job needed.

I have used Amazon and eBay extensively both in Alaska and here in Hawai’i.
They are hard to beat.
Although, I had just ordered a stacked dado set and a dado throat plate.
I found Silvers Mill to be cheaper than Amazon or eBay for the same items plus shipping to HI.
That prompted my question here.
I am a tightwad.

Once I get the reducer questions answered and the order placed, my next steps will be to make a router table in the TS’s table extension and a collapsible out feed table. Then, my first projects will be to make a work bench, wall cabinets and shelving in the garage.

Before even beginning the assembly of the saw, I checked for blade shift.
After finishing the saw’s assembly, I then checked miter slot, blade and fence alignment.
Everything is true and straight running, right out of the box I might add.
I will check them again later after making a few cuts [after making the router station and out feed table].
I’m tickled with this, the first table saw I’ve ever actually owned.
All my personal cutting has been with a circular saw before now.
That can be a real PIA and very discouraging when trying to get accurate cuts.

-- Every mighty oak is nothing more than a nut that has stood it's ground.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5463 posts in 2032 days


#5 posted 06-26-2014 12:12 AM

I’ll reiterate the importance of getting a decent blade to improve the overall performance of your saw. You’ve invested research time, money, travel time, gas, and setup time…it’s all sort of pointless if you don’t optimize the saw’s potential with at least a decent blade. It’s well worth the small additional expenditure. More research if you like … Saw Blade Bargains

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Bob Current 's profile

Bob Current

313 posts in 274 days


#6 posted 06-26-2014 01:08 AM

I can attest to Knotscott’s advice on blades, he made my life easier.
You may be able to solve your hose adaption needs by going to a plumbing supply and look at Fernco fittings.
Take your hoses and exact outside dimensions with you.
I’m thinking it’s a 2-1/2” x 3” PVC size adapter that fits that combination.

-- When you are wrong admit it, when you are right forget it.

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1voyager1

24 posts in 89 days


#7 posted 06-26-2014 01:38 AM

While I forgot to acknowledge the blade issue, I have been looking at blades. I’m still making decisions about what types and how many I’ll need.
Even so, compared to a circular saw, the provided blade does a reasonable job, but not good enough for what I want out of this saw.

Locally, Tenryu, Bosch, Diablo, Dewalt, and maybe Oshlund are available.
Although, I’ll probably end up making my purchase online.

I’m still trying to decide what I need.
I’m thinking a 40T and a 60T &/or a 80T blade should cover my needs.
The descriptions on the blade packages leave a bit to be desired as far as being informative goes.

Any suggestions as to where to look for more info on making blade decisions?

@ Bob
I’ve already looked locally for an adapter.
I live 25 miles out of Hilo.
A shopping trip to town ends up being an all day affair.
Then, Finding what you want is highly unlikely.
I’ve lived in remote locations for almost 35 years.
Getting something like the dust collector system together without it ending up being a Rube Goldberg is hard to do.
I’ll take my time and get it right when it’s finally all together.

-- Every mighty oak is nothing more than a nut that has stood it's ground.

View bandit571's profile

bandit571

6978 posts in 1340 days


#8 posted 06-26-2014 01:48 AM

Might want to look up a decent rip blade while you are out shopping. 40 tooth blade are ok, but NOT for making rip cuts. Save the higher toothed blades for the crosscuts. NO, one blade does not do it all, some try, but most are good at just one type of job, where they excell. Ripping a chunk of Koa with a 60 or 80 tooth blade is murder, both on the wood, and the blade, and the smoke detectors….

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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knotscott

5463 posts in 2032 days


#9 posted 06-26-2014 09:23 AM

Any suggestions as to where to look for more info on making blade decisions?

The ABCs of Picking Saw Blades

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View 1voyager1's profile

1voyager1

24 posts in 89 days


#10 posted 06-26-2014 10:14 PM

Thanks knotscott.
You are The Blade Man.

OK, I’m thinking of an Irwin Marples #1807368 10” X 50T ATBR Combination to begin with.
Then, down the line maybe a 40T General Purpose for ripping, and a 60T to 80T for fine crosscut work.
While I will be doing some ripping, most of it will be plywood of one sort or another.

Right now my interest is in learning the saw and getting good smooth glue quality cut surfaces.

After finishing the saw’s assembly, I did make several test cuts with the supplied Ridgid 40T blade, a 90° crosscut, several 45° crosscuts, and a rip cut, all on a fir 2×4.

The crosscuts weren’t too bad.
Although, the softer portions of the rings were rougher, as if the wood had been “torn” rather than being cut by the teeth.
I was impressed by the ripped surfaces.
Other than some small “pilot error” ripples, the surfaces were smooth and straight, good enough to glue.

-- Every mighty oak is nothing more than a nut that has stood it's ground.

View lab7654's profile

lab7654

252 posts in 904 days


#11 posted 06-27-2014 12:18 AM

I have a R4512 equipped with a Marples 50T combo blade which rips and crosscuts beautifully. A 24T would be nice for big ripping jobs, but the 50T doesn’t burn anything I’ve thrown at it so far. Keep your stock blade, I like a cheap 40T blade for ripping questionable wood.

My saw is currently out of commission, the arbor locked up on me. Good thing there’s the Lifetime Service Agreement.

-- Tristin King -- When in doubt, sand it.

View 1voyager1's profile

1voyager1

24 posts in 89 days


#12 posted 06-27-2014 12:41 AM


... My saw is currently out of commission, the arbor locked up on me. Good thing there s the Lifetime Service Agreement.

- lab7654

While I was scrambling all over the island looking for my saw I found out that there is an authorized Ridgid Service Center here in Hilo.
After I picked my jaw up off the floor, that clinched my determination to somehow end up with a good R4512 if any way possible.
Not having to ship it to the mainland for warranty and repair work was too good to be true.
Although, It might take 6 months or more to get it back, one of the “perks” of living remote.

I’ll be ordering the blade in the next few days along with my dust collection parts.

The dado blade stack and dado throat plate I’ve ordered has been shipped by USPS Priority, should be here in 3 or 4 days.

-- Every mighty oak is nothing more than a nut that has stood it's ground.

View Rockbuster's profile

Rockbuster

316 posts in 1265 days


#13 posted 06-28-2014 02:02 PM

Hard to beat a Freud Diablo0 10-24 for smooth rip cuts, if you are looking for a reasonably priced blade.

-- Rockbuster,Ft. Wayne,In It is far better to remain silent, and appear the fool, than it is to open ones mouth, and remove all doubt.

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1voyager1

24 posts in 89 days


#14 posted 06-29-2014 11:12 PM

Hi rockbuster,
Thanks.
I’ve put my order in for the IM 50T combination.
It’ll ship on Wed.
As my experience progresses, I’ll add to my blades as my needs grow.
I can see at least three blades total, maybe more.

I’ve searched the wide world of the internet and found 3 fold down outfeed tables that I like.
Lo and behold, they are all versions of the one found in the Feb 2009 issue of Woodworker’s Journal.
I’ve obtained a copy of that issue and am beginning to figure my adaption of it.
By the time my blade and dust collector parts get here, I’ll be ready to begin on it.

Then, I’ll start looking into getting the router table insert made.
After that, unless I find something else that I think I need before beginning, it’ll be time to start on the garage workbench, wall cupboards and shelving, my justifications for buying the table saw.
MyLady wants the mess in the garage[where she parks her car] cleaned up … yesterday!
The only thing saving me right now, is her knowing that the boxes and other things are nothing compared to the mess not having a dust collector would make.
But, she is getting antsy.
She’s finding it hard to see why I need the outfeed and router tables before I can get started.
I think I can hold her off, though.

-- Every mighty oak is nothing more than a nut that has stood it's ground.

View ColonelTravis's profile

ColonelTravis

571 posts in 551 days


#15 posted 06-30-2014 12:40 AM

Voyager your garage situation = my garage situation.
Pomaika’i!
(is that Hawaiian for good luck? Haven’t been there in 10 years.)

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