Table Saw Problem: Need Advice...

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Forum topic by Newbiewoodworker43 posted 06-20-2014 10:06 PM 1316 views 0 times favorited 22 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Newbiewoodworker43's profile


150 posts in 1864 days

06-20-2014 10:06 PM

I have a 70’s 113 Craftsman table saw with a 1 HP 3450 RPM motor. Last weekend I was using a 6” dado set for the first time to make some tenons in cedar 2X4s. I ran the saw for at least 1 hr. When I turned it off and then turned it on again the motor wouldn’t turn and just made a humming noise and then the circuit blew. I reset the circuit breaker, hit the reset button on the motor and turned off the dust collector that was on the same circuit.

I tried again and then the motor did not make any noise and I was dead in the water. When I checked the motor it was very hot. Basically it appears that I have fried my motor.

I am looking for a new motor and in the meantime I tried to put on a 1 HP 1725 RPM motor I had lying around with a 4 inch pulley. It seemed to work when I had no blade on but when I put the thin kerf blade back on, it too wouldn’t turn and then blew the circuit.

So now I am not sure what the issue might be.

Any ideas or suggestions?

-- ---Howard, Amesbury MA

22 replies so far

View geekwoodworker's profile


350 posts in 882 days

#1 posted 06-20-2014 10:47 PM

I think its a sign to upgrade to a new saw with a 2 hp motor. New saws come with riving knives which add extra safety while making cuts.

If you are bent on keeping this old saw you should use a 3450 rpm motor. My motor recently quit on me. I was using it fine and then turned it off and when I turned it back on it just made a humming sound and turned at about 2 rpm. I took it to a repair shop and it turned out to be the starting capacitor had failed. It took one day and cost $90.00 and it has worked without any problems since.

Hope this helps.

Check out this review.

View TheFridge's profile


5678 posts in 908 days

#2 posted 06-20-2014 11:10 PM

Heat will kill capacitors. It takes a lot to burn up an induction motor. A lot of times it’ll be capacitor issues.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View English's profile


512 posts in 899 days

#3 posted 06-21-2014 02:25 AM

I had one of those saws for years and mine did the same thing. There is a centrifugal switch in the motor that switches between the start winding and the run winding. It will sometimes get saw dust in the switch which keeps it from operating correctly. Take the motor apart and clean the switch and blow out all of the dust. It should work OK for a while. I had to clean mine about once a year.

-- John, Suffolk Virgina

View Jerry's profile


1710 posts in 1070 days

#4 posted 06-21-2014 02:35 AM

I would also check the bearings. Bearing replacement in motors is easy and cheap if you have the right tools and sources. VXB Bearings sell top quality bearings for really really cheap. You can get a great bearing puller set from Harbor Freight for about 30 bucks.

If it turns out your bearings are seized, just disassemble the motor, remove one bearing with the puller, and measure it with a digital caliper to get your size.

Reassembly is done by tapping it back on using something like a socket from your socket set that is the same diameter as the INNER race, and a soft blow hammer.

Prior to reassembly, make sure you clean the shaft really well, I’d hit it with a scotchbrite pad, but don’t sand it.

Make SURE you have exactly the right measurement for the bearing.

If it is a little difficult to install the new one, put the shaft in your freezer for a little while, but keep the bearings warm ( don’t heat them, the lubricant will run out )

-- There are good ships and there are wood ships, the ships that sail the sea, but the best ships are friendships and may they always be.

View Newbiewoodworker43's profile


150 posts in 1864 days

#5 posted 07-02-2014 11:22 AM

I ended up getting a new/old 1.5HP 3450RPM vintage motor. It works well but it is pulling 18 amps and I cannot run my dust collector at the same time since they are on the same 20 amp circuit. I am going to have a 220 line run and switch the motor over to 220.

I am also finding that the saw is bogging down which is very concerning. It bogged down when I was cutting some rabbits in a 2X4 so its not like I was trying to cut 8/4 oak or something. I am using a relatively new thin kerf blade. I am not sure what is causing this to happen any ideas?

I am thinking of taking the saw apart and cleaning and lubing everything while I wait for the electrician to fit me in. This is a 70’s era table saw and I doubt that it has ever been completely overhauled. I know that I have not done so in the 6 years that I have had it. I am not thrilled with doing this as I am concerned with getting everything back together properly. So any ideas of what I should try before taking this step would be appreciated

-- ---Howard, Amesbury MA

View bigblockyeti's profile (online now)


3579 posts in 1143 days

#6 posted 07-02-2014 01:23 PM

I would check to see if everything is properly aligned. Are you getting any burning on the wood when ripping? If so, that would certainly be contributing to your problem. If you have bearings that are failing 99% of the time they not only sound bad, but will get warm if they’re sapping enough power to make an otherwise healthy saw bog down with a thin kerf blade.

View Vincent Nocito's profile

Vincent Nocito

485 posts in 2786 days

#7 posted 07-02-2014 01:32 PM

Consider adding a link belt with machined pulleys ( I added those to my old CM TS back in the day and it significantly improved the saw.

View Newbiewoodworker43's profile


150 posts in 1864 days

#8 posted 07-02-2014 02:21 PM

I am getting a little burning or at least it smells like I am. I just got the new/old motor and the bearings seem good – no crunching noises but when you shut it off the pulleys go for quite some time and I thought that might be a sign of bad bearings but I am not sure.

I have a link belt on it but not necessarily machined pulleys. I am using the pulley that came with the table saw and the one that came with the motor which is actually oriented for a 2 belt system. I was going to put the pulley from the old motor on but I could not get the one that was on the new motor off so I just went with it. Thinking about it, it might not be the right diameter but it looked pretty close to the original one.

I will change over to the old pulley at the motor end and check the alignment. If that does not help I can take the motor apart and change the bearings. The motor is a 1950’s motor and the bearings have not been changed so it probably is a good thing to change them anyway.


-- ---Howard, Amesbury MA

View TiggerWood's profile


271 posts in 1028 days

#9 posted 07-02-2014 05:07 PM

A lot of those 1950’s motors don’t need to be taken apart. Just a couple of screws on a plate and then you can repack the bearings.

View NiteWalker's profile


2735 posts in 1999 days

#10 posted 07-02-2014 05:15 PM

Check the arbor bearing too.
If that’s seizing up it won’t matter how strong the motor is.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View Newbiewoodworker43's profile


150 posts in 1864 days

#11 posted 07-03-2014 11:24 AM

Thanks TiggerWood and NiteWalker.

How do I go about checking the arbor bearings? With the belt off the blade spins freely without any resistance or strange noises. Is that a sufficient test or do I need to take the arbor apart to check the bearings?

-- ---Howard, Amesbury MA

View TheWoodenOyster's profile


1275 posts in 1357 days

#12 posted 07-03-2014 01:14 PM

Don’t know what your time vs money chart looks like, but if I were you I might consider going for a new saw. Seems like a lot of time and money invested into a saw that isn’t really a lifetime tool. But, it is your saw and your time. I’m a fatalist, so if that were happening to me, I would take it as a sign to get a new saw.

Any particular reason you are wanting to keep this saw?

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

View Newbiewoodworker43's profile


150 posts in 1864 days

#13 posted 07-03-2014 02:06 PM

I get what you are saying TheWoodenOyster and it did cross my mind to get a “new” table saw when I burned out the old motor. I decided to keep this table saw because
1. I am into older tools (1940s – 1960) so if I were to replace this table saw I wanted to get a Delta Unisaw of that vintage
2. When I get that “quest” table saw I expect to have to take it completely apart and restore it which will take quite a bit of time and I was in the middle of building some stuff
3. Those table saws are available but at the moment in my area the one’s available on CL were a little pricey.
4. I was able to find a 1.5HP motor for $100 plus shipping – so the price was right.
5. I actually like my table saw and while I realize that it is not a lifetime tool, I am only a beginner hobbyist and it does well by me.
6. It came with a Vega fence that I like

So those are my reasons and I guess some part of me wants to fix this table saw and use it for several more years before I get a Unisaw.
5. It came with a

-- ---Howard, Amesbury MA

View ChefHDAN's profile


798 posts in 2272 days

#14 posted 07-03-2014 02:26 PM

Newbie, I’d still take a look at sending the old motor to an electric motor repair shop, I’ve had ALOT of electric motors rewound / built to save a lot of green, you’d be amazed what commercial kitchen food processing machines go for and most times when a machine goes down I’ve been able to have the motors repaired for less than $100

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View bigblockyeti's profile (online now)


3579 posts in 1143 days

#15 posted 07-03-2014 02:35 PM

You mentioned you were getting a little burning. If your fence isn’t exactly parallel with the blade (or very close) you could be slightly binding the blade which will increase your power requirement by several times. The best evidence of binding would be difficulty feeding stock, a burning smell, brown marks on your wood from the blade and sometimes blue marks from excessive heat on the blade. The heat on the blade can be especially bad for thin kerf blades as they’re more likely to be damaged due to the reduced plate strength and inability to absorb the same amount of heat as a blade with a heavier plate.

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