Any bright ideas on how to open blast gate behind saw?

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Forum topic by Jackietreehorn posted 06-17-2014 06:43 PM 1584 views 0 times favorited 30 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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148 posts in 1358 days

06-17-2014 06:43 PM

In my previous setup I used a couple long rods and basic fulcrum points. In my new setup, the gate is now directly behind the saw so I have to make my levers work around a 90 degree corner. This is all I could come up with in a rough sketch, basically a notch that is angled that directs the other arm to move… Probably take me a while to build it while I scratch my head along the way. Thought maybe someone had some other way that would save me a lot of r&d. Thanks in advance!

As you can see my table is a bit big so there’s no easy access from left or right of saw


30 replies so far

View DLCW's profile


530 posts in 2074 days

#1 posted 06-17-2014 07:31 PM

Put it further up the line towards the DC. I have a setup similar to what is pictured and my blast gate is at eye level and easy to get to. After the gate is a splitter that goes to the main dust port at the bottom of the cabinet saw and the other goes to a smaller hose attached to blade guard with dust collection built in.

-- Don, Diamond Lake Custom Woodworks - - "If you make something idiot proof, all they do is make a better idiot"

View Don W's profile

Don W

17875 posts in 1987 days

#2 posted 06-17-2014 07:33 PM

I hope you come up with something. I’m tired of reaching behind the saw!

-- Master hand plane hoarder. -

View Elizabeth's profile


814 posts in 2563 days

#3 posted 06-17-2014 07:35 PM

What are you connecting at the gate – a flexible hose, or a rigid pipe?

Where does that pipe/hose go to? What about leaving the gate on the saw open, and installing another gate at an accessible point in the pipe/hose run? On my shop the table saw dust port is also on the back of the saw. From the port I ran a few feet of flex hose to get round to the front right corner of the table, then a run of metal pipe goes straight up to the ceiling, and the blast gate is about shoulder height on that pipe. One of my shop photos shows it.

View Don W's profile

Don W

17875 posts in 1987 days

#4 posted 06-17-2014 07:45 PM

before I got my cabinet saw, I had this old craftsman, see the threaded rod is attached to the door on the blast gate. Pull to open, push to close.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. -

View Jackietreehorn's profile


148 posts in 1358 days

#5 posted 06-17-2014 08:10 PM

Because of room behind saw, the gate will have to be attached to saw, then a small section of flex, maybe a foot long and then to rigid pipe. The gate can’t go anywhere else, mainly cause I wasn’t planning on upgrading collection system when I started to design the new table. If I put it farther down the line it’d cut off the router table, or both saw and router would be open at same time.

Once I started building new table I started reading more about dust collection and decided to upgrade which means shoehorning a lot of stuff in limited space. Had I thought about it prior the story would be much different. Big doh! On my part.


View waho6o9's profile


7119 posts in 1997 days

#6 posted 06-17-2014 08:15 PM

Maybe wire cable on each side of the saw, one to open and the

other to close.

View MrRon's profile


3891 posts in 2663 days

#7 posted 06-17-2014 11:34 PM

If you can find a choke cable at your auto parts store, you could rig it to open/close the blast gate with a push/pull action. Once you have the choke cable, it will become obvious how to rig it.

View Tony_S's profile


597 posts in 2503 days

#8 posted 06-18-2014 12:19 AM

pneumatic is the way to go of your mechanically inclined.

You can buy them pre made, but they can get pretty pricey.

-- It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it. Aristotle

View Jackietreehorn's profile


148 posts in 1358 days

#9 posted 06-18-2014 12:28 AM

Pneumatic sounds neat for cool factor, I can imagine parts could add up though. I like the cable idea, but was hoping to not spend any $$ if I can help it cause I blew budget from get go. I’ll call my hot rod buddy and see if he’s got extra cable somewhere.


View MT_Stringer's profile


2819 posts in 2651 days

#10 posted 06-18-2014 01:02 AM

@Tony. I like the air cylinder idea. Very nice. Luckily for me, I only have two blast gates and they are both within easy reach behind my saw.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View Steve Peterson's profile

Steve Peterson

317 posts in 2502 days

#11 posted 06-18-2014 03:27 AM

How about moving the blast gate further downstream? Is there another location that provides better access?

-- Steve

View TheFridge's profile


5676 posts in 906 days

#12 posted 06-18-2014 03:38 AM

I wonder if a bicycle hand brake would work. You could spring load it fairly easy.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View William Shelley's profile

William Shelley

147 posts in 889 days

#13 posted 06-18-2014 08:24 AM

I really like those pneumatic ones… and small air cylinders like that are a dime a dozen on ebay. The fittings are what come around to bite you though. A few bucks each doesn’t seem like much but it adds up quick.

-- Woodworking from an engineer's perspective

View mudflap4869's profile


1130 posts in 879 days

#14 posted 06-18-2014 12:26 PM

Just don’t do half measures, it costs more in the long run. A small can for each project. Add a few coins to each when you empty your pockets. I have bought some great tools that I otherwise could not afford by using that system. Never leave the house with coins in your pocket.

-- Still trying to master kindling making

View ChrisK's profile


1794 posts in 2501 days

#15 posted 06-18-2014 12:48 PM


Check out for the various pneumatic bits.

A few hours of tinkering should get what you need. An electric solenoid and a spring might also work.

-- Chris K

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