LumberJocks

Melamine cabinets in laundry room

  • Advertise with us

« back to Designing Woodworking Projects forum

Forum topic by ADHDan posted 06-17-2014 06:37 PM 1334 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1568 days


06-17-2014 06:37 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I’m going to be building a set of cabinets to go above the washer/dryer in my laundry room, as well as installing wall shelves all around the room. I’m planning on making everything from standard BORG 3/4” melamine – http://tinyurl.com/l8zqv46 – because I have a ton of it laying around, it’s stable and simple to work with, and it cleans up easily from spills and such. My only concern is that if the interior composite material absorbs moisture it may expand significantly – and in a room with a washing machine, water heater, water softener, storage freezer, and utility sink, there’s no shortage of water-based appliances.

My plan is to build the cabinets with dados and screws, build the doors out of flat melamine panels, put iron-on melamine edging on every exposed edge, and lay silicon caulk down every joint and crack where moisture might be able to get into the melamine. I haven’t decided whether to go with frameless or face-framed cabinets (and if I make a frame, whether to keep using melamine or just use poplar and paint it white).

Does this sound reasonable, or am I setting myself up for problems down the road? Anything else I should do? I’ve seen plenty of examples of melamine laundry room cabinets, so presumably this isn’t a big deal – I just want to avoid having my shelves and cabinets warp beyond use in a few months. I’m open to thoughts and suggestions.

Thanks!

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.


7 replies so far

View Earlextech's profile

Earlextech

1159 posts in 2150 days


#1 posted 06-17-2014 07:21 PM

Keep adj shelves to 30” or less, fixed shelves no more than 36” and they shouldn’t warp drastically. Otherwise you’re fine, done this hundreds of times.
I wouldn’t do painted wood with mel doors. Wood FF only if matching with wood doors.

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "Finished"!

View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1568 days


#2 posted 06-17-2014 07:27 PM

Thanks! That’s a relief. Given your experience, what would you recommend as the easiest way to make melamine cabinets with melamine doors – taking into account hinges (i.e., what’s the simplest cabinet/door/hinge combo for something that doesn’t need to be fancy)?

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

View Earlextech's profile

Earlextech

1159 posts in 2150 days


#3 posted 06-18-2014 01:20 PM

I would go euro in this situation. 35mm cup hinges, full overlay.

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "Finished"!

View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1568 days


#4 posted 06-18-2014 06:18 PM

Thanks, I’m basically considering those vs. the Euro concealed non-mortise hinges. I’m assuming the 35mm cup hinges are easier to work with, though.

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

View Steve Peterson's profile

Steve Peterson

324 posts in 2542 days


#5 posted 06-19-2014 03:38 PM

Back when I was just starting out (i.e. very green), I made a melamine cabinet to go above a TV nook. I used 24” maple colored melamine with an edge band pre-installed on one edge. All of the exposed edges had an edge band.

For the doors, I went to the web and found a company that sold pre-made maple doors. They were quite reasonable in price. I mounted them directly to the melamine. A face frame would have looked better, but was beyond my skillset at the time.

-- Steve

View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1568 days


#6 posted 06-19-2014 05:07 PM

Also good info, thanks.

In the event I decide to go with a face frame, is there any reason I couldn’t make it with melamine? I’d take a shallow dado blade pass to remove the laminate where the frame meets the cabinet edge (to allow for glue bond) and secure with pocket screws, covering exposed edges with iron-on. Is melamine just not a good material to use for a face frame?

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

View ADHDan's profile

ADHDan

800 posts in 1568 days


#7 posted 06-19-2014 09:31 PM

Never mind; I’m just going with full overlay 35mm cup hinges, flat melamine panel doors. Thanks to all for the comments.

-- Dan in Minneapolis, woodworking since 11/11.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com