Do I need a veneer hammer?

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Forum topic by Jeff_in_LSMO posted 06-10-2014 02:24 PM 2039 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Jeff_in_LSMO's profile


347 posts in 2338 days

06-10-2014 02:24 PM

I’m getting into veneering. My question, do I need a veneer hammer to do iron veneering with titebond II? I have a book that suggests to use one after ironing, but I have yet to see any actual examples of people doing this (using a hammer).

Also, I looked through the forums already, and couldn’t find my answer, which is why I am asking now.

8 replies so far

View Glen Peterson's profile

Glen Peterson

556 posts in 3054 days

#1 posted 06-10-2014 03:13 PM

I don’t have a great deal of experience, but have done a bit of veneering. I took a box class with Phil Lowe and we used veneer hammers. The purpose was to use the hammers to squeeze hide glue from beneath the veneer. I think a v hammer is needed if one is using traditional methods. When I use a vacuume bag and modern glues I don’t use a hammer. In any case a veneer hammer is very simple to make in the shop.

-- Glen

View Julian's profile


1328 posts in 2688 days

#2 posted 06-10-2014 03:24 PM

My opinion: the veneer hammer is a good way to squeeze out air bubbles. But you could also do this with a roller. I use a roller when veneering or a homemade veneer press.

-- Julian

View shipwright's profile


7980 posts in 2795 days

#3 posted 06-10-2014 03:27 PM

HHG is the only glue that can be used for actual hammer veneering. Here’s a video of how it is done. As mentioned above the purpose is to force air out from under the veneer while the glue is still liquid, before it gels. Unless the hammer was quite hot, I can’t see it doing much good in your situation. IMHO, hot hide glue is far better for veneer work anyway but we all have our preferences.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fibreglass trees.

View Loren's profile (online now)


10387 posts in 3645 days

#4 posted 06-10-2014 04:15 PM

Especially with paper-backed veneer and contact cement
a sort of “hammer” is sometimes used which is something
like a 1/4” thick piece of plastic with a rounded and buffed
edge sandwiched between two blocks of wood to make
a handle. Where a rubber roller may fool you by rolling over
little bumps instead of pressing them out, this sort of
tool won’t.

View JAAune's profile


1798 posts in 2314 days

#5 posted 06-10-2014 04:19 PM

I’ve used J-roller and the hammer. The veneer hammer does allow for a lot more pressure than the roller.

-- See my work at and

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile


932 posts in 2352 days

#6 posted 06-10-2014 06:15 PM

I believe laminate rollers work better than a hammer, but that’s just me.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View tinnman65's profile


1357 posts in 3411 days

#7 posted 06-10-2014 11:12 PM

I have done the PVA glue method with mixed results. I had very few problems when I did work on a flat surface but as soon as I started working on convex work that’s when the problems arose. I used a laminate roller for whatever that’s worth. the problems may have been something I was doing wrong I know there are people who work that method with no problems. I would suggest some experimentation first. Good luck

-- Paul--- Creativity is allowing yourself to make mistakes. Art is knowing which ones to keep. — Scott Adams

View JuanVergara's profile


25 posts in 1446 days

#8 posted 06-14-2014 11:34 AM

I made these two hammers using the back of an old hack saw, polished to a fare-the-well, and found them essential in doing two writing desks with veneers respectively of black acacia and black walnut.

-- Juan Vergara, California,

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