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Do I need a veneer hammer?

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Forum topic by Jeff_in_KCMO posted 72 days ago 427 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jeff_in_KCMO

145 posts in 965 days


72 days ago

I’m getting into veneering. My question, do I need a veneer hammer to do iron veneering with titebond II? I have a book that suggests to use one after ironing, but I have yet to see any actual examples of people doing this (using a hammer).

Also, I looked through the forums already, and couldn’t find my answer, which is why I am asking now.


8 replies so far

View Glen Peterson's profile

Glen Peterson

508 posts in 1681 days


#1 posted 72 days ago

I don’t have a great deal of experience, but have done a bit of veneering. I took a box class with Phil Lowe and we used veneer hammers. The purpose was to use the hammers to squeeze hide glue from beneath the veneer. I think a v hammer is needed if one is using traditional methods. When I use a vacuume bag and modern glues I don’t use a hammer. In any case a veneer hammer is very simple to make in the shop.
Cheers

-- Glen

View Julian's profile

Julian

503 posts in 1315 days


#2 posted 72 days ago

My opinion: the veneer hammer is a good way to squeeze out air bubbles. But you could also do this with a roller. I use a roller when veneering or a homemade veneer press.

-- Julian

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

4899 posts in 1423 days


#3 posted 72 days ago

HHG is the only glue that can be used for actual hammer veneering. Here’s a video of how it is done. As mentioned above the purpose is to force air out from under the veneer while the glue is still liquid, before it gels. Unless the hammer was quite hot, I can’t see it doing much good in your situation. IMHO, hot hide glue is far better for veneer work anyway but we all have our preferences.

-- Paul M ..............If God wanted us to have fiberglass boats he would have given us fiberglass trees. http://prmdesigns.com/

View Loren's profile

Loren

7389 posts in 2273 days


#4 posted 72 days ago

Especially with paper-backed veneer and contact cement
a sort of “hammer” is sometimes used which is something
like a 1/4” thick piece of plastic with a rounded and buffed
edge sandwiched between two blocks of wood to make
a handle. Where a rubber roller may fool you by rolling over
little bumps instead of pressing them out, this sort of
tool won’t.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View JAAune's profile

JAAune

774 posts in 942 days


#5 posted 72 days ago

I’ve used J-roller and the hammer. The veneer hammer does allow for a lot more pressure than the roller.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile

TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 980 days


#6 posted 71 days ago

I believe laminate rollers work better than a hammer, but that’s just me.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View tinnman65's profile

tinnman65

1120 posts in 2039 days


#7 posted 71 days ago

I have done the PVA glue method with mixed results. I had very few problems when I did work on a flat surface but as soon as I started working on convex work that’s when the problems arose. I used a laminate roller for whatever that’s worth. the problems may have been something I was doing wrong I know there are people who work that method with no problems. I would suggest some experimentation first. Good luck

-- Paul--- Creativity is allowing yourself to make mistakes. Art is knowing which ones to keep. — Scott Adams

View JuanVergara's profile

JuanVergara

16 posts in 74 days


#8 posted 68 days ago

I made these two hammers using the back of an old hack saw, polished to a fare-the-well, and found them essential in doing two writing desks with veneers respectively of black acacia and black walnut.

-- Juan Vergara, California, www.juanvergara.net

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