Dust Collector Setup

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Forum topic by agallant posted 06-09-2014 01:05 AM 1346 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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551 posts in 3060 days

06-09-2014 01:05 AM

My DC is very old, under powered and we are buying a new house. Needless to say I am going to CL it and get a new one. I have a few questions I was hoping you could help me out with.

1. Does anyone see any issue in building a “quiet closet” for the compressor and dust collector?
2. What size tubes should I use
3. Does it matter if I use flex hose or should it be as much PVC as possable? I can do PVC right up to the machine if that is the best way, I would just not glue the joints on the table saw seeing as it would be in the middle of the shop and I may need to move it from time to time if I need to work on a car
4. Recommendations on a DC? I would like to keep it under $1,000 and I plan on connecting my unisaw, CMS and Jet 16-32 drum sander to it. I can see myself adding other things on to the system down the road.

10 replies so far

View Bieser's profile


176 posts in 2208 days

#1 posted 06-09-2014 02:07 AM

I am currently doing the same thing your talking about. I sold my 2 hp HF collector and I decided to go with a Clear Vue. I know that is more than you wanted to spend but I think it might be more than I currently need also. Penn State has some cyclones very close to that price range and I think they are excellent value. Grizzly will also be a place you may want to look. I think the only issue with the closet is potential heat build up and as long as you vent it for some air flow I think you will be just fine, lots of guys have done this. My question is do you want to do the entire setup for a $1000? You will find quickly that no matter what you use for ducting it will be about as much as the collector itself. My ducting for a 14×24’ shop was around $1000. I decided to use spiral metal duct. I priced PVC and did not find a lot in cost savings vs. the metal and it will save me the static charge as it is dry here. You will want to run as much rigid piping as you can and use as little flex line as possible as I understand it really chokes out the flow. I am running 6” for all my trunk lines with 4” drops to the tools. I think you will want to do the same as everyone I talked to said running 4” was going to restrict my shop too much.

my .02 -B

View Sean C's profile

Sean C

6 posts in 1958 days

#2 posted 06-09-2014 02:53 AM

+1 for the Clear Vue. I love mine. They cost a bit up front, but it will pay off in the long run…

View AandCstyle's profile


3170 posts in 2431 days

#3 posted 06-09-2014 11:36 PM

1. You need to be a little careful with a closet. It can get too hot which may shorten the motor life of the DC and compressor as Bieser mentioned. Also, the air from the DC needs a vent to get back into your shop which somewhat negates the noise reducing benefit. If you locate the closet outside, that ameliorates the the noise better, but then you need a way to get replacement air back into the shop and then there is the issue of heating/cooling the replacement air depending on the time of year.
2. Use the largest diameter tubing your DC will accommodate, usually 6”.
3. Use as much smooth walled as possible. If you need to use flexible, consider using 5” to a 5-4” reducer at the machines(assuming they have a 4” port).
4. Your DC needs to be sized depending your machines and on the length of your runs and the number of bends. Oneida will help you with this for a fee, but you don’t have to buy any products from them.

Also, as Bieser indicated, expect to spend a significant amount for the tubing and fittings. HTH

-- Art

View Grandpa's profile


3261 posts in 2849 days

#4 posted 06-10-2014 12:12 AM

Clear Vue really isn’t that much more than the cheaper models and it is a LOT more collector. I priced some of the 3HP collectors and decided I should just get the last collector I should ever need. I used spiral metal pipe. When I went in and priced the 6” PVC I found I could get the spiral for about the same money or possibly less. IT really didn’t cost anymore to go first class. The guys in wood magazine really hammered Clear Vue but if you read the instruction book you can see that they apparently didn’t. They didn’t set the filters up like the instructions for my CV1800 instructed. I think I will keep the Clear Vue and let Wood magazine go….

View English's profile


660 posts in 1651 days

#5 posted 06-10-2014 12:45 AM

Penn State has a unit with a 2.5HP blower, produces 12.5” of static and will move up to 1450 CFM.

AS for duct I purchased 6” – 26 gauge snap duct, reducers and 90 degree ellbows from Ferguson, Ordered 6” – 26 gauge Flue wyes from Home Depot. Flue wyes have the crimp on the obsit end from HVAC fittings which is what you need for Duct collection. I ran 140 ft of duct, 17 wyes, I have drops to 12 Machines. I spent around $700 for the duct work. With metal you don’t get shocked from the static electricity. I don’t have any runs that have more than 3.5” of static loss. If I close all of my gates I am getting close to 10” of static, got a few leaks.

You will want to keep hose lengths to a minimum. Hose will eat up your static pressure.

I was able to get my DC noise down to 76 DB. Very tolerable Level. See my DC review.


-- John, Suffolk Virgina

View Sean C's profile

Sean C

6 posts in 1958 days

#6 posted 06-10-2014 12:58 AM

I went with spiral ducting as well. Rather than buy my stuff off the shelf, I ordered exactly what I wanted from a manufacturer. Out here (Northern California) we have a manufacturer called Omniduct. They will make whatever fittings you dream up, and for a fraction of the price of off-the-shelf stuff. They also had it finished within three or four days. Check the internet or phone book for a manufacturer in your area. You’ll probably save a ton.

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1325 posts in 2122 days

#7 posted 06-10-2014 01:17 AM

I have said it before and I will say it again ”STOP QUOTING CFM” The numbers are over inflated. What you want to compare is amperage ratings and impeller size. as for piping as little flex as possible and the 4” VS 6” really depends on machine you choose and the performance you are wanting. If you are unsure what you want I recomend you spend some time reading the pages @ Bill Pentz's page

As for the closet you need to go to clearvue and look at their photo gallery. There are tons of owner setups and different configurations. My personal opinion on the noise is if I am running a machine that needs DC then it probably makes enough noise that I should be wearing protection anyways.

To those who think I’m yelling it was intended to appear that way.

View changeoffocus's profile


467 posts in 1791 days

#8 posted 06-10-2014 01:43 AM

I took John English’s advice and ordered Penn …. 2.5 HP system should have it any day.
I changed locations on my shop and I’m having spiral installed because I’m just because I’m lazy.
The man at Penn was a pleasure to work with.
I’m installing the cyclone in the same room but with a sound attenuating enclosure that has the filters piped outside the enclosure.

View English's profile


660 posts in 1651 days

#9 posted 06-11-2014 12:23 AM

Well I have read Bill Pentz work, all of it and he sure emphasizes CFM, yes he talks about impeller size and HP as a means to get the required CFM. But the main thing he talks about is if you can’t move enough air flow threw the collection hood you won’t get the fine dust that causes the biggest health risk. Not all of the data provided by all suppliers is overrated. I have tested my DC, verified the fan curve, measured amps, staitic and velocities to insure that I am getting the CFM I quoted.

But I am sorry I ‘m not going to shout about it.


-- John, Suffolk Virgina

View changeoffocus's profile


467 posts in 1791 days

#10 posted 06-11-2014 12:31 AM

As we discussed your reporting of CFM was as close to a certified test and balance report as it could be and my machines are all specifying minimum CFM’s.
I just got the shipping notice today.

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