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Milling table saw fence

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Forum topic by woodbutcher posted 309 days ago 468 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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woodbutcher

432 posts in 1064 days


309 days ago

O.K. before I ruin an expensive piece of UHMW fence face, I gotta know! Do any of you Lumberjocks run this material through your planners to get a fence face flat? I’ve got about .007” difference across the face. I’m dead nuts on either end of the fence in relation to the miter slot on the table saw, but there is approximately .006” to .007” dip in the middle of the fence. I assume its probably just wear as measures this way about 4” in front and behind the blade before being true again at both ends of the fence and miter slot. What is your suggestion on the best method to correct this? I want everything parallel if I’m spending this time to dial the saw in.

Next question is. Are you commonly seeing as much as .011” run out on your saw blades? I’ve got the miter slot within less than .001” square from front to back of blade. I tickled pink with this measurement! Just not extremely happy with the blade that’s on there having .011” run out even though it’s cutting great. Any help would be greatly appreciated-TY-in advance.

-- woodbutcher north carolina

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marcb

705 posts in 571 days


309 days ago

Blade bodies can have a bunch of wiggle in them. If you want to check run out you need to get right up on the arbor flange.

View ajosephg's profile

ajosephg

443 posts in 459 days


309 days ago

Run Out of 0.011 is major excessive. You should be talking 0.002 or less. You either have a warped blade, bent arbor, or poorlly faced flange.

Some notes for your consideration:
1. Don’t touch the blade with anything other than the dial indicator when you are taking the measurements.

2. Find the high spot on the blade, and mark it with a felt tip pen.

3. Loosen the blade and rotate it 180 degrees from it’s original position, making sure the arbor doesn’t move.

4. Find the high spot on the blade again. If the high spot is where you marked the blade, then the variation is caused by the blade. If the change is nowhere near the original spot then the problem is in the arbor and/or flange.

-- Joe

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surplusdealdude

45 posts in 909 days


308 days ago

Hi, woodbutcher,

I sell UHMW offcuts and I’ve worked with this stuff for years.

It’s perfectly safe to run your UHMW through a surface planer.

Just don’t take a really agressive cut until you’ve got a feel for how this handles. And plane one side, then the other to make sure that you don’t stress the plastic and get a curl on it.

It’s not unusual to see some variation in the surface of UHMW – up to 7% if the thickness variation is considered normal for this plastic.

-- surplusdealdude

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Gofor

109 posts in 685 days


307 days ago

Woodbutcher: If the variation is -.007, cutting a shim out of an aluminum soda can will probably even it up (place shim behind UMHW).

Go

-- Go http://ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=730

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