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Actual 1" lumber required?

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Forum topic by LearningAsIGo posted 06-06-2014 04:32 PM 761 views 1 time favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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LearningAsIGo

38 posts in 1356 days


06-06-2014 04:32 PM

I bought this futon plan.

The plan calls for some lumber thicknesses that aren’t common. I don’t have a planer so I typically buy lumber that is s4s. I figure I can just swap in what I can buy off the shelf for the most part. However it specifies for one specific piece that the lumber must be 1 “to allow for the length of the pin for the futon hardware that will be attached later”.

See diagram (red arrow points to the piece that is supposed to be 1”)

This is the hardware that the plan calls for.

There is a video here that shows how the hardware works.

Not sure if any of that is helpful. But does 1” lumber absolutely have to be used? Can I swap in some other size? In addition to the 1” end it looks like the pin goes through the leg which is supposed to be 1 3/4” which I will probably be using 1 1/2” instead.


12 replies so far

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2928 posts in 1963 days


#1 posted 06-06-2014 05:52 PM

You could glue two 1/2” thick pieces or a 3/4” and a 1/4” piece together. What wood are you using? If common pine or fir, you could rip it out of 2x material.

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

5432 posts in 576 days


#2 posted 06-06-2014 06:07 PM

That piece doesn’t look very wide. You could cut it with the table saw out of a 2×4. Rip it to width and then rip it to the right thickness. If you don’t want the rounded edges of the 2×4, make sure to rip that off first. Then rip to width and then to thickness. Hope that helps.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

2063 posts in 1950 days


#3 posted 06-06-2014 06:17 PM

If you decide to use 2×4 material, check out my adjustable height work table. I ripped 2×4 inch fir studs for the frame. After trimming the edges, I had 1 1/2×3 inch material to work with.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View neverenougftackle's profile

neverenougftackle

195 posts in 566 days


#4 posted 06-06-2014 06:30 PM

I would glue two pieces of 1/2” together. With to days glues, and some well placed clamps held until the glue dries. Those two pieces are going to become one, and do just fine. I am looking over my shoulder at a country style sofa/sleeper. The two short design of this style Maple upper framed stiffed wings, that protrudes out and down to the arms are glued together 3/4” pieces. The glue lines are pretty obvious, but it does not distract from the design at all. The honey stain bring the whole wood together. In your case the cushions may cover all anyways.

View Crank50's profile

Crank50

107 posts in 296 days


#5 posted 06-06-2014 06:45 PM

Good opportunity to go buy you some rough lumber and rip to approximate size on the TS, then plane to correct thickness with a hand plane. You can rip up to a 2×6 on a table saw by making two passes. Caution, if you do this, leave a thin web of wood uncut down the middle and break that apart or finish thru cutting with a hand saw. That web will act as a spacer to help keep the table saw from binding in the cut.

If you are one of the folks that think every woodworking tool has to have a cord and a switch, then you might make a jig to use the router as a thickness planer. But you will miss a lot of satisfaction that can be had from making something by hand.

View LearningAsIGo's profile

LearningAsIGo

38 posts in 1356 days


#6 posted 06-08-2014 12:47 AM

That piece is supposed to be 1” thick and 3” wide.

Not positive on the type of lumber I’m using. It will probably end up being cedar.

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

2063 posts in 1950 days


#7 posted 06-08-2014 01:10 AM

I watched that video showing the hardware used. I think cedar would break out. It is soft.
Give it some thought before you commit.

Good luck.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View kimballd's profile

kimballd

13 posts in 484 days


#8 posted 06-08-2014 01:42 PM

Go to your lumber yard and order 5/4 lumber. Should be available in common species. A lot of deck lumber is 5/4, cedar, Ipe, Mahogany and other exotics should be readily available.
Good luck.

View LearningAsIGo's profile

LearningAsIGo

38 posts in 1356 days


#9 posted 06-09-2014 02:10 PM

MT_Stringer

I have heard that Ipe is hard to work with. Would I be able to router it?

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MT_Stringer

2063 posts in 1950 days


#10 posted 06-09-2014 03:31 PM

“I have heard that Ipe is hard to work with. Would I be able to router it?”

I don’t have any experience with it. Sorry.

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View MrFid's profile

MrFid

560 posts in 624 days


#11 posted 06-09-2014 03:42 PM

Ipe is a wood used for decking among other things. It routes pretty easily. You’ll need a sharp cutter. Do not use steel blades on ipe, and I wouldn’t use a blade that you treasure, as it may dull. Carbide-tipped blades only. If you’re only cutting one piece, though, you shouldn’t have to worry too much about dulling.

-- Bailey F - Eastern Mass.

View LearningAsIGo's profile

LearningAsIGo

38 posts in 1356 days


#12 posted 06-09-2014 05:17 PM

Do you think it would be weird to have a stand made from PT lumber with an ipe swing? Do you think a PT stand made from PT 4×4’s and 2×6’s would support an ipe swing?

From what I’ve read you need to use stainless steel fasteners with ipe because galvanized will cause a discoloration in the wood. I haven’t been able to find stainless bolts in the size that I will need. Ipe would also be significantly more expensive because the stand calls for 4×4’s.

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