|Forum topic by Mark E.||posted 06-06-2014 02:59 PM||2203 views||2 times favorited||3 replies|
06-06-2014 02:59 PM
(This is a post I made on another WW site. I thought some here may find it useful.)
Well, I have had the Tormek T3 grinding system since December (2013). A very thoughtful gift from LOML. It is great machine that I loved to use, but I decided to go with the larger Grizzly T10010 (T10010ANV actually). It has a 10” wheel vs. the 8” wheel on the T3 and the wheel is wider requiring less back and forth when grinding wide plane irons, etc.
There are a couple of things that were definite downgrades when going from the Tormek to the Grizzly. The T3 has the patented micro adjust tool support, the square edge jig was almost perfect out of the box, and the WM-200 angle setting jig is far superior to the Grizzly offering. So I bought a WM-200 for the T10010.
One thing the T10010 and the T3 share is the water mess that comes with this kind of machine. Here is my simple, preliminary solution to that problem. Just a couple of strategically placed pieces of aluminum flashing to direct the water drippings back to the water tray. It is pretty effective, but still needs some tweaks to the ‘design’, for aesthetics.
I wasn’t sure how much I would miss the T3 micro adjust. Now I know… A lot.
The T10010 right angle jig rides on the tool support through two holes in the jig that have plastic inserts. The fit of the holes/inserts on the horizontal rod was a bit too sloppy for my taste. The T3 jig is nice and tight without any binding. So I was trying to figure out how to remove some of that slop. I thought about trying to shim the inserts with tape or … something. Then I hit upon a very simple solution. I just bent the tabs with the holes in them toward each other so that the insert lined holes were at a slight angle to the horizontal rod of the tool support. So I now have (essentially) an oval hole riding on a round rod. All the geometry geniuses can explain this way better than I can. What I know is, the jig is nice and tight, virtually zero slop and no binding. Plus, it’s adjustable as long as I have a pair of pliers handy.
Once I got the slop in the jig taken care of, I found that the ‘right angle’ jig wasn’t holding my plane irons at a right angle to the wheel. The jig has a front and back stop that are supposed to be aligned and square. I should be able to push the edge of the plane iron against both stops and be assured that the edge to be ground would be square to the grinding wheel. I had trued the wheel to the tool support using my Tormek TT-50 dressing and truing tool, so the tool support was square to the grinding wheel surface. With a plane iron firmly pressed against both stops on the jig, I was not getting a square grind on the cutting edge of the iron. I had to move the plane iron away from the back stop of the jig about a full 1/16” to square the cutting edge of the plane iron to the grinding wheel. So, I scribed a line just under 1/16” from the edge of the front stop and filed it down to the line. After a couple of tests and adjustments (using a 1-3/4” plane iron, which fits entirely on the surface of the grinding wheel) I zeroed it right in. (FYI, I needed to do this to a lesser degree with the T3 right angle jig as well)
So that’s it. I can now mount a plane iron (or chisel, or whatever) in the right angle jig, push it against both stops and be assured that I am grinding a square edge. The micro adjust makes it easy to move the tool support up or down until the WM-200 jig tells me I have it set to the correct angle. And once I get down to actually grinding a tool, most of the water is returned to the water tray.