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Grizzly T10010 modifications/upgrades

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Forum topic by Mark E. posted 06-06-2014 02:59 PM 2066 views 2 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mark E.

387 posts in 3208 days


06-06-2014 02:59 PM

(This is a post I made on another WW site. I thought some here may find it useful.)

Well, I have had the Tormek T3 grinding system since December (2013). A very thoughtful gift from LOML. It is great machine that I loved to use, but I decided to go with the larger Grizzly T10010 (T10010ANV actually). It has a 10” wheel vs. the 8” wheel on the T3 and the wheel is wider requiring less back and forth when grinding wide plane irons, etc.

There are a couple of things that were definite downgrades when going from the Tormek to the Grizzly. The T3 has the patented micro adjust tool support, the square edge jig was almost perfect out of the box, and the WM-200 angle setting jig is far superior to the Grizzly offering. So I bought a WM-200 for the T10010.

One thing the T10010 and the T3 share is the water mess that comes with this kind of machine. Here is my simple, preliminary solution to that problem. Just a couple of strategically placed pieces of aluminum flashing to direct the water drippings back to the water tray. It is pretty effective, but still needs some tweaks to the ‘design’, for aesthetics.

I wasn’t sure how much I would miss the T3 micro adjust. Now I know… A lot.
So I made my own. I threaded the center vertical rod on the tool support with a M12×1.25 die and added an M12×1.25 hex nut and a washer. I am trying to find a nice round knurled nut with the correct thread specs, but, so far not much luck. This works good enough for now.

The T10010 right angle jig rides on the tool support through two holes in the jig that have plastic inserts. The fit of the holes/inserts on the horizontal rod was a bit too sloppy for my taste. The T3 jig is nice and tight without any binding. So I was trying to figure out how to remove some of that slop. I thought about trying to shim the inserts with tape or … something. Then I hit upon a very simple solution. I just bent the tabs with the holes in them toward each other so that the insert lined holes were at a slight angle to the horizontal rod of the tool support. So I now have (essentially) an oval hole riding on a round rod. All the geometry geniuses can explain this way better than I can. What I know is, the jig is nice and tight, virtually zero slop and no binding. Plus, it’s adjustable as long as I have a pair of pliers handy.

Once I got the slop in the jig taken care of, I found that the ‘right angle’ jig wasn’t holding my plane irons at a right angle to the wheel. The jig has a front and back stop that are supposed to be aligned and square. I should be able to push the edge of the plane iron against both stops and be assured that the edge to be ground would be square to the grinding wheel. I had trued the wheel to the tool support using my Tormek TT-50 dressing and truing tool, so the tool support was square to the grinding wheel surface. With a plane iron firmly pressed against both stops on the jig, I was not getting a square grind on the cutting edge of the iron. I had to move the plane iron away from the back stop of the jig about a full 1/16” to square the cutting edge of the plane iron to the grinding wheel. So, I scribed a line just under 1/16” from the edge of the front stop and filed it down to the line. After a couple of tests and adjustments (using a 1-3/4” plane iron, which fits entirely on the surface of the grinding wheel) I zeroed it right in. (FYI, I needed to do this to a lesser degree with the T3 right angle jig as well)

So that’s it. I can now mount a plane iron (or chisel, or whatever) in the right angle jig, push it against both stops and be assured that I am grinding a square edge. The micro adjust makes it easy to move the tool support up or down until the WM-200 jig tells me I have it set to the correct angle. And once I get down to actually grinding a tool, most of the water is returned to the water tray.

-- Mark


3 replies so far

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Mark E.

387 posts in 3208 days


#1 posted 06-06-2014 03:05 PM

Here are a couple of updates to this project.

One thing I did not mention before was the turntable that the T10010 is mounted to. The Tormek T3 was sitting on the Tormek RB180 rotational base. This made it very easy to rotate the machine 180 degrees to gain easy access to the honing wheel and to allow grinding with the wheel rotating away from the tool. I liked that feature so much that I threw one together for the T10010. It’s basically just a couple of chunks of 3/4” plywood mounted on a bearing set I took off an old swivel bar stool. In the top panel I drilled shallow recesses for the feet of the T10010 to fit into. I drilled 1/4” holes through top and bottom panels in opposite corners so I could drop in a 1/4” bolt to use as a stop. It’s a bit sloppy, but good enough.

I added a ~2” maple disc to the nut on my micro-adjust to make it easier to turn. The nut is epoxied into the maple disc. Works great, much easier to turn than the nut alone. I ordered some Graco knurled nuts which may work better, but who knows.

I decided to take a chance that the Tormek ‘Advanced Water Trough’ would work on the Grizzly and ordered one from Amazon. This is the water trough that now comes standard with the Tormek T7. The trough arrived today. It does not fit … out of the box. But I figured I could get it to mount with a couple of minor modifications. The Tormek trough has mounting tabs at the outside edges of the trough. They do not line up with the slots in the T10010 base, so I cut them off with a coping saw. I drilled a couple of small holes in the Tormek trough to line up with the mounting slots on the T10010 and installed #8×32 screws and nuts in the holes. The heads of the screws fit nicely in the mounting slots in the T10010. With the screws in their current location The trough needs to be mounted using the top set of the three sets of mounting slots on the T10010. I will probably make another pair of holes about 1” down form the current pair so I can mount the trough in the middle set of slots. As the grinding wheel starts to get smaller through use and dressing, I can then move the trough up to the top set of slots and keep the wheel in the water reservoir.

I thought this was a little funny, and worth mentioning. Along with the Tormek water trough were a couple of feet. The instructions that came with the kit says to attach these fiit to the two feet under the honing wheel side of the Tormek T7. The feet will raise that side of the machine so that any water that drips onto the top of the machine will roll downhill towards the water trough. The feet have magnets in them so that you can attach them to the metal casing of the machine while not in use. This seems to me to be a weak solution to the problem of water dripping on the top of the machine. But, to give the concept a fair trial, I put a couple of washers in the foot holes that I made in my rotating stand, raising the honing wheel side of the T10010 just a bit. We’ll see how that works.

-- Mark

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JAY Made

191 posts in 1510 days


#2 posted 06-06-2014 04:48 PM

How hard was it to thread the shaft?

-- We all should push ourselves to learn new skills.

View Mark E.'s profile

Mark E.

387 posts in 3208 days


#3 posted 06-06-2014 05:20 PM

It wasn’t too difficult to thread the shaft, but it did require a ratcheting die handle due to the other shaft being in the way. I used a Gearwrench ratcheting ‘T Wrench’ with the appropriate sized die adapter.

-- Mark

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