LumberJocks

What Type of Joinery to Use?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Joinery forum

Forum topic by Matt posted 06-06-2014 12:53 PM 796 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Matt's profile

Matt

29 posts in 1192 days


06-06-2014 12:53 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question oak joining

So I am working on a violin stand for my litter sister, and have come into a bit of road block. I cannot decide what type of join to use to attach the base and the main box.

I do not just want to glue the two pieces together since I plan on staining the wood before finishing, and I know I will not be able to get all the glue out of the corners. I don’t trust myself enough with a chisel to recess the box into the base. My coworker suggested perhaps doweling the two pieces together.

What are yall’s thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance


This is what it is supposed to look like.

-- Molon Labe


10 replies so far

View Kaleb the Swede's profile

Kaleb the Swede

1727 posts in 1431 days


#1 posted 06-06-2014 01:03 PM

If you are covering it with felt, I would just screw it so the screws were never seen. Dowels would work too

-- Just trying to build something beautiful

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4024 posts in 1813 days


#2 posted 06-06-2014 01:05 PM

Screws or dowels.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View JayT's profile

JayT

4773 posts in 1673 days


#3 posted 06-06-2014 01:05 PM

You are going to have to use some glue, I don’t see any other way with the way you’ve done the construction. You might be able to get away with less glue by using screws or through dowels from the bottom, but I would still glue down the sides for strength. If there is any squeeze out, do not try to clean it up right away. All that does is smear the glue around. Wait until the glue gels up but isn’t hard yet (usually around 30 minutes for me) and clean it off with a chisel at that point. That will leave the surface pretty clean. Then you can do final clean-up in the corners by scraping with a chisel.

I’m curious why you did the construction that way instead of building a box with the bottom set into dadoes in the sides and then add the feet to the outside of the box. Is there something I am missing?

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

View Matt's profile

Matt

29 posts in 1192 days


#4 posted 06-06-2014 01:17 PM

Jay, I actually planned to do it that way, but I learned that dadoes and finger joints don’t play well together. At least not the way I did them. I ended up with holes in my finger joints at the location of the dadoes. I had to cut off the bottom portion at the dado and reconfigure. I will keep the gluing advice in mind.

Kaleb, were you meaning pocket hole screws or screwing it from the bottom?

-- Molon Labe

View Kaleb the Swede's profile

Kaleb the Swede

1727 posts in 1431 days


#5 posted 06-06-2014 01:20 PM

Either which you want. If you cover it the pocket screws won’t be seen and from the bottom they could be plugged

-- Just trying to build something beautiful

View JayT's profile

JayT

4773 posts in 1673 days


#6 posted 06-06-2014 01:26 PM

Gotcha. Yep, doing dadoes with box/finger joint or dovetail corners takes careful planning and making stopped dadoes on two sides. Anyone who has ever tried has messed it up at least once.

Every woodworker makes mistakes. It’s how well you recover, adjust and adapt that separates the good ones.

-- "Good judgement is the result of experience. A lot of experience is the result of poor judgement."

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2152 days


#7 posted 06-07-2014 12:18 AM

4 little finish head screws up from the bottom. Oops, did I say that out loud?

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Texcaster's profile

Texcaster

1138 posts in 1136 days


#8 posted 06-07-2014 12:45 AM

I’ve made boxes like that for cello and double bass. A fiddle or viola can be hung from the pegs if you like.

-- Mama calls me Texcaster but my real name is Mr. Earl.

View JAAune's profile

JAAune

1640 posts in 1778 days


#9 posted 06-07-2014 12:48 AM

How big is that box? The general rule is to avoid cross grain joints exceeding 8” in length.

I know you don’t want to use glue but I would use a marginal amount then screw it from the bottom. The bottom would then be covered in felt to hide the screws and give it a classy look.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View Matt's profile

Matt

29 posts in 1192 days


#10 posted 06-09-2014 12:45 PM

Wasn’t able to get online this weekend, but I ended up doing some pocket holes on the inside that will be covered with foam and velvet to protect the violin. I have just done a dry fit right now, but I do intend to use some glue as yall have suggested.

Tex, I figured on doing some kind of peg-based violin stand until my sister told me that the box type of stand is what she wanted.

JAAune, I think my long dimension (parallel grain joint) is 8-10” and the short dimension (cross grain joint) is 5-6”. It has been a while since I cut the pieces and I don’t have my sketch book with me.

I appreciate all the input.

-- Molon Labe

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com