|Forum topic by jacobem3||posted 06-04-2014 02:59 AM||1216 views||0 times favorited||9 replies|
06-04-2014 02:59 AM
Hello! I’ve used circular saws on and off throughout my life when necessary for projects but I’m still a newb and my cuts have always left a lot to be desired. I want to learn to get the most accuracy I can out of my circular saw before investing in a table saw, especially after reading all the poor reviews of most saws under $1000 and 300lb.
I’ve got a Makita 5007MG with a Freud 24 tooth framing blade, some clamps and a small collection of squares – 6” speed square, 12” speed square and a few carpenter’s squares of various sizes.
My first mini project was a simple crosscut jig. My first attempt didn’t come out perfectly square, so I modified my technique a bit and also used a larger speed square.
I used 1×3 poplar for my second attempt, clamped a 12” speed square to the horizontal/zero-clearance piece with an Irwin pistol grip clamp, then glued up the guide piece with a spring clamp holding it against the horizontal piece and made sure it was trued up to the side of the speed square while the glue was still very wet.
It came out a little better. Measuring from the “southwest” corner/pocket up the length of the guide piece, the square seems to fit flush. With the speed square in the “southeast” corner (the one between the zero-tolerance cut end and the guide that touches shoe) there is an air gap out at the end of the square at the far end of the guide piece. I measured it at 0.022” over the 12” length along the edge of my speed square (measured using feeler gauges).
I was hoping to not see any gap there. A carpenter square on the end of the zero-clearance seems to fit perfectly flush, but it’s only a 3” wide piece of wood.
Is this something I should worry about or is 0.022” over 12” good enough? The next real projects I’m planning are a garage workbench, a dryer pedestal and a minimalist bed frame. I know none of those qualify as fine woodworking, but I’m trying to stop making sloppy cuts/projects.
I’m especially interested in learning to make rabbets, half-laps and dados as best I can with this saw.
Eventually I will probably get a finer toothed blade if I’m not happy with the quality of the cut with my Freud 24t. Will I have to make additional jigs for each blade or isn’t there enough variation in thickness to make that worthwhile?
Any insight is appreciated. Thanks!