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Forum topic by panamawayne posted 06-03-2014 04:19 AM 1654 views 1 time favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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panamawayne

69 posts in 920 days


06-03-2014 04:19 AM

I have a unique problem living down in the tropics as my planer and tablesaw are in an outdoor shop, of course there is a roof.. I am looking to preserve the cast iron from rust the best I can and have used waxes etc. With limited success. I have contemplated spray painting with a clearcoat but wanted other ideas first…I have custom vinyl covers I put on them while not in use..


24 replies so far

View JAAune's profile

JAAune

1634 posts in 1777 days


#1 posted 06-03-2014 04:22 AM

Fine Woodworking recommended CRC 3-36.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5764 posts in 947 days


#2 posted 06-03-2014 04:24 AM

Check out woodgears.ca.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

53 posts in 955 days


#3 posted 06-03-2014 07:53 AM

There was another thread on this topic awhile back.

Check out this thread:

-- I'm not a woodworker, but sometimes I do occasionally find useful tools and furniture inside a pile of lumber!

View Loren's profile

Loren

8295 posts in 3108 days


#4 posted 06-03-2014 08:25 AM

Putting gas permeable machine covers under the vinyl may help.
HTC makes them. I have a couple. Water doesn’t easily go through
the top but condensation can offgas the other way, sort of like
a Goretex jacket. Thus it doesn’t bead and drip like under plastic.

I had a table saw outside for a couple of years and most of the
time I would use an HTC cover over a plastic panel with a slot
for the blade in it, but when it rained I would put a couple
of layers of plastic tarp on it and some 2×4 blocks and spring
clamps to manage tarp sagging and water pooling. It was
adequate. I kept a cup brush on an angle grinder and would
whisk off the rust when I needed a smooth surface for finish
cuts after a rain.

I have a couple of industrial machines from the 30s and and
while they are lightly pitted from years of whatever, wire
brushing and wax is enough to get them looking and working
well. Cast iron is a material that ages well.

View robscastle's profile

robscastle

3390 posts in 1665 days


#5 posted 06-03-2014 08:38 AM

INOX make two products suitable for what you want to do.
They are: MX3 short term presevation and MX4 a longer term preserative.

-- Regards Robert

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TheWoodenOyster

1275 posts in 1396 days


#6 posted 06-03-2014 11:34 AM

Fine woodworking also inconspicuously “recommended” WD-40. It ranked very high on rust prevention in their tests, but they never really mentioned it in their article… I guess WD-40 isn’t one of their sponsors and isn’t expensive, so they can’t bring themselves to mention it. I think there are a few concerns about the oils transferring onto the wood, but it is definitely worth a shot. If it doesn’t work on the parts of your tools that touch finished surfaces because it gets on the finished surfaces, you can at least use it everywhere else. WD-40 is cheap, very accessible, and you probably have 3 cans buried somewhere. Don’t discount this old recipe too fast. It ranked higher than a bunch of the new fancy ones in the test FWW did.

Just a little history- WD-40 actually stands for “Water Displacement: 40th attempt”. It was originally formulated to keep missiles from rusting. Good enough for me

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

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panamawayne

69 posts in 920 days


#7 posted 06-03-2014 12:11 PM

Thanks for all the responses guys, I especially like the idea of the machine covers, I found them on Amazon and unlike chemicals they can be easily shipped.. Yes, I tried Wd 40 but it doesn’t last long..

View swirt's profile

swirt

2117 posts in 2432 days


#8 posted 06-03-2014 12:18 PM

I live in Florida near the coast so salt air is pretty brutal to iron. I have had good luck with roughly 8 parts shellac to 1 part mineral oil. Wipe it on with a cloth (no need to glob it on thick). The alcohol in the shellac displaces the water and helps get rid of it. The shellac coats it and provides a smooth and moisture resistant barrier.

I was originally using BLO for the oil component but have switched to mineral oil. Seems to work the same but I don’t have to be cautious about what I do with the rag when I am done. Mineral oil does not have the risk of spontaneous combustion the way BLO does.

-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com

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swirt

2117 posts in 2432 days


#9 posted 06-03-2014 02:54 PM

It took me a while to find the woodgears entry that TheFridge referenced. Here it is
https://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/slippery.html Kind of interesting.

panamawayne, your experience with WD-40 sounds similar to mine. It protects great for a short term but then disappears. In many cases it is a better de-greaser than it is a protector. It does displace water very well but I have not found it to keep it displaced indefinitely. ;) So I use it to “de-wet ” my tools if they get rained on. Then I wipe it off and apply my shellac mixture. I use it on everything from my handplanes to my shovels.

-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com

View Ocelot's profile

Ocelot

1470 posts in 2099 days


#10 posted 06-03-2014 03:52 PM

In the old days iron and steel tools were intentionally treated to cause black oxide to form. Black iron oxide is stable and does not expand or contract, so is tightly bound to the surface like anodized coatings are on aluminum. I wonder if there is a metal treating / plating shop that could get a good black oxide coating on large iron castings.

I have a pair of pliers that were owned by my Dad – probably 70 years old, with no rust. They are dark grey steel – obviously a black oxide coating.

Here’s a place in Houston I found with a quick search.

http://www.delsplating.com/black-oxide.html

They say you still need to oil it.

Here’s another one, apparently in Chattanooga, TN http://industrialplating.com/pg/black-oxide-service

-Paul

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

3926 posts in 2704 days


#11 posted 06-03-2014 04:58 PM

I wonder if Thompson water seal would work? A bigger concern to me would be the internal parts of the saw.

View TheWoodenOyster's profile

TheWoodenOyster

1275 posts in 1396 days


#12 posted 06-03-2014 08:25 PM

Glad to hear your opinions on wd-40. I suppose my experience is in north texas, where the humidity is average.

-- The Wood Is Your Oyster

View bowedcurly's profile

bowedcurly

515 posts in 1190 days


#13 posted 06-04-2014 01:56 AM

shellac will stop rust dead in it’s tracks spray on 4 coats sand between 320 to 600 then wax,rust will be gone for years just got my new Griz513×2 that the 1st thing I done no rust whatsoever jointer 2 years no rust Tablesaw 5 years no rust live in Ky high humidity in summer no rust I do not have to use oil or anything this is at least a one time deal every 5 years I see SWIRT already has the answer but lot’s of peeps just don’t listen, shellac it or fight it you make the choice

-- Staining killed the wood<<<<<>>>>>Dyeing gave it life

View ColonelTravis's profile

ColonelTravis

1189 posts in 1355 days


#14 posted 06-04-2014 02:11 AM

Think I’m about to pull the shellac trigger but I need to ask a stupid question, sorry – I’m guessing you cover up the rails and insert and take off the fence? Can the shellac damage anything if it gets on stuff other than the top?

How come the wood magazines never talk about doing this? Or do they and I’ve missed it?

View swirt's profile

swirt

2117 posts in 2432 days


#15 posted 06-04-2014 02:21 AM

I don’t spray, I wipe it on. No need to sand or do anything else with the method I describe. It makes it plenty slick. About the only thing I have found the shellac to ruin is anything put on with an alcohol based die (think sharpie markers, labels …) Other than that it sticks to anything without ruining it. If for some reason you don’t like it, wipe it down with alcohol and it is gone like it was never there.

-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com

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