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Mineral Oil finish problem

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Forum topic by Gixxerjoe04 posted 06-03-2014 12:59 AM 940 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Gixxerjoe04

835 posts in 1044 days


06-03-2014 12:59 AM

So i made a serving tray for my mom for mothers day, it’s in my projects but it’s curly maple and walnut. I used just mineral oil on it. So it’s been I guess like 3 weeks since she had it and i had it finished the week before. My mom texted me tonight and said she had newspaper or some paper on it and oil I guess came out of the wood and soaked into the paper. What did I do wrong for this to happen? Asked if it was in sunlight thinking maybe that could have caused it but nope, so not sure why it would do that.


12 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4037 posts in 1819 days


#1 posted 06-03-2014 01:56 AM

Mineral oil never dries. Next time use a drying oil like BLO or Tung oil.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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Gixxerjoe04

835 posts in 1044 days


#2 posted 06-03-2014 01:59 AM

Would that be food safe? I always see people use mineral oil for cutting boards, figured this would be used as the same basically except it was face grain. Didn’t know if maybe i used bees wax after, maybe that would seal the oil in and prevent that from happening?

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

2526 posts in 1744 days


#3 posted 06-03-2014 02:26 AM

It’s probably a matter of you applying too much mineral oil and is seeping out of the pores. Depending on the excess amount, it may bleed from the pores for some time. As bondo stated above, it doesn’t dry. No harm, your mom may have to occasionally wipe it down until the excess is released from the pores. On a good note, you have delayed the inevitable routine maintenance applications of mineral oil for awhile.

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View Yonak's profile

Yonak

979 posts in 988 days


#4 posted 06-03-2014 03:39 AM

The point is, as Bondo says, mineral oil is non-drying. You might try a solvent such as mineral spirits or naptha and letting dry and then, after a re-sand, apply walnut oil or tung oil, which are drying oils and are food safe.

View panamawayne's profile

panamawayne

69 posts in 926 days


#5 posted 06-03-2014 03:58 AM

I have read that linseed oil both straight or mixed with mineral oil will produce a harder finish and is non toxic.

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

1887 posts in 1602 days


#6 posted 06-03-2014 11:17 AM

Yes, mineral oil is non-drying oil but food safe. Mineral oil (laxative) inexpensive, food safe, ease of application and reapplication & cleaning after use about the best choice. Never use baby oil or industrial mineral oil for food safe applications.

Would not add or use solvents (mineral spirits, Naptha) kind of defeats the purpose of food safe.

BLO & oil varnish recommended not food safe, read MSDS for those products.

Pure linseed oil while a drying oil takes forever to dry and can and does go rancid. Mixing drying and non-drying oil together just does not make any sense at all.

Pure Tung oil also a drying oil, but not something would use because time it takes to dry and number of applications it takes (6 to 8 costs) to get any kind of protection. Plus requires reapplication over time. Definitely stay away from Tung oil varnish or wiping varnish products, again read MSDS before using.

Oil finishes whether drying or non-drying require reapplication with use and time. Best three drying oils on wood for food safety linseed, Tung, and walnut do not penetrate deeply without use of solvents take a long time to dry without solvents. Far better to use these oils without solvents. Tung oil will afford wood the most protection and will get a nice patina with reapplication over time.

-- Bill

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Wildwood

1887 posts in 1602 days


#7 posted 06-03-2014 11:26 AM

Normally post this article when talking about food safe finishes. Lot of commercial products listed as food safe but would recommend you look at the products MSDS before deciding to use. Also can the person you give or sell you wood product too be able or want to reapply whatever commercial product you used.

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/article/food-safe-finishes.aspx

-- Bill

View woodchuckerNJ's profile

woodchuckerNJ

1154 posts in 1101 days


#8 posted 06-03-2014 11:57 AM

Mineral oil does not dry, but it is food safe.

So is shellac food safe. If you are not cutting on it, use acetone to dry as much of the oil as possible, it will dry it quickly be sure to wipe of what you can, then apply shellac.

I recommend zinsser sealcoat as it is dewaxed and is better for wet stuff.

-- Jeff NJ

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Wildwood

1887 posts in 1602 days


#9 posted 06-03-2014 04:53 PM

Zinsser Seal Coat nothing more than universal sanding sealer and not a final finish. Really great stuff for sealing wood and under coat for another film finish or stain.

http://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/854.PDF

Going green community does not like shellac because need denatured alcohol as a solvent. U.S, government makes sure denatured alcohol a poison to keep people from drinking it and avoiding sin tax on booze.

Good luck getting proper permits where can make your own alcohol fit to drink and mix with shellac.

Yes, shellac without denatured alcohol use a coating for pills and other stuff.

-- Bill

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

4859 posts in 2281 days


#10 posted 06-03-2014 05:26 PM

I like Howard’s Butcher Block Conditioner. It is a blend of bees wax and mineral oils, and dries to a satin finish in a couple hours. It is soft to the touch, and food safe. Find it at Home Depot in the paint department.

I tried straight mineral oil once… never again.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View kdc68's profile

kdc68

2526 posts in 1744 days


#11 posted 06-03-2014 07:38 PM

pinto suggests a good product….... I seen your project post. Well done, it’s a beautiful !! .... If it were me, I’d leave the board as is. It will eventually stop seeping mineral oil from the pores and down the road it will eventually need another protective coat and when it does you could recoat with the Howards.

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

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Gixxerjoe04

835 posts in 1044 days


#12 posted 06-03-2014 08:08 PM

I have some butcher block oil i got at lowes, forgot what kind but will try it next, making an ambrosia one now because i wanted something to do haha. I just like the cheapness of mineral oil which is why i used it and everyone else seemed to use it. I’m just glad i used my mom as a test subject, my fiance thinks i should make stuff and sell it before figuring it all out which could leave to bad results like so. Hopefully I’ll have the kinks worked out by September, hoping to do my first craft show in my home town and want to bring my A game and products.

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