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Forum topic by mzimmers posted 80 days ago 665 views 0 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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mzimmers

121 posts in 2539 days


80 days ago

...cutting very small pieces of hardwood? I make some spline boxes (I’m sure many of you have seen the plans online) that call for little triangular pieces about 1/8” thick. I can create the triangle profile fairly easily on my table saw, but…what would make it easier to knock out the 1/8” cuts?

Band saw? Scroll saw? Something I’m overlooking? Currently I do it on my miter saw, which apart from the 50% waste, gets a little tedious looking around the shop for wherever the saw threw the little piece just after cutting it.

Thanks for any ideas…

-- M. Zimmers


21 replies so far

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TiggerWood

192 posts in 230 days


#1 posted 80 days ago

I work with small pieces and find the scroll saw to work best.

View mzimmers's profile

mzimmers

121 posts in 2539 days


#2 posted 80 days ago

Thanks, TiggerWood. Do you have a particular technique for cutting exact thicknesses? This is a big time-saver in making these parts.

-- M. Zimmers

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TiggerWood

192 posts in 230 days


#3 posted 80 days ago

After a little Googling, it seems that the best approach is to make a spline jig for the table or miter saw. Just Google spline jig.

Basically, I guess you would cut the thickness first and then go to town cutting all the splines, I think.

Hmm, they have jigs that work either way. Your choice.

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TiggerWood

192 posts in 230 days


#4 posted 79 days ago

Thanks for posting this question. I’m learning a lot from it.

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1652 posts in 1546 days


#5 posted 79 days ago

I make thin pieces myself and cut the thickness first non my table saw, then the shape. Just as TiggerWood suggested.

-- In God We Trust

View docholladay's profile

docholladay

1286 posts in 1683 days


#6 posted 79 days ago

What about a quick simple hand tool option? I would use a good fine tooth back saw. A Japanese style pull saw has a very thin kerf. Almost zero waste and cuts fast. If you need precision, use a bench hook or some type of miter box you can build yourself.

Doc

-- Hey, woodworking ain't brain surgery. Just do something and keep trying till you get it. Doc

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a1Jim

112008 posts in 2201 days


#7 posted 79 days ago

A thin stock ripping jig will do the job.Here’s one Matt made.

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/84494

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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NiteWalker

2709 posts in 1201 days


#8 posted 79 days ago

I cut the strips on the table saw, the triangle shape on the bandsaw (less waste).
I don’t use a thin strip jig; I use a sacrificial pusher with the stock between the fence and blade. With a riving knife and pusher, it’s plenty safe.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

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mzimmers

121 posts in 2539 days


#9 posted 79 days ago

Thanks for all the suggestion, guys. All the options are good, but it sounds like the one that suits my needs best is NiteWalker’s.

Now…if I can just figure out to keep the saw from tossing the little triangles into the dark corner of the garage and/or the vacuum from sucking it up. Maybe a little 1/8” block between the riving knife and the fence? The cut stock’s never going to get that far.

-- M. Zimmers

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muleskinner

667 posts in 1061 days


#10 posted 79 days ago

I’ve done a few splined miters. I use the planer to get the thickness first. Then just cut chunks for the splines. Trim and sand after gluing.

-- Visualize whirled peas

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gfadvm

10711 posts in 1314 days


#11 posted 79 days ago

I plane stock to the exact thickness to fit the spline slot, then cut slightly oversized triangles with the little bandsaw.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

1465 posts in 345 days


#12 posted 79 days ago

If you’re already starting with fairly small strips, the bandsaw would probably be the safest route, also fairly small kerf to if your cutting something pricey (like ironwood). A good tablesaw jig would be more likely to leave a finish that required little if any sanding before installation, but much larger kerf if your cutting down something with any substantial width.

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mzimmers

121 posts in 2539 days


#13 posted 78 days ago

I haven’t tried planing to 1/8” yet. I have a DeWalt DW735 with the Byrd cutter; I know that’s about at the ragged edge of what it will do. Worth a try, I suppose.

Getting the thickness exact is more important to me than getting the other dimensions right. I can always use a trim router bit to clean up any extra, but if the thickness isn’t right, it makes insertion a real chore.

-- M. Zimmers

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gfadvm

10711 posts in 1314 days


#14 posted 78 days ago

If you double face tape your stock to a flat board, you can plane thinner than 1/8”. Just take really small ‘bites’ when you get close to the final thickness. I usually use my drum sander to thickness my splines but have used the planer in the past and it worked fine.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View bonesbr549's profile

bonesbr549

167 posts in 1691 days


#15 posted 78 days ago

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