Left tilt/right tilt, saw blades and rip fences

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Forum topic by MrRon posted 05-30-2014 09:05 PM 828 views 0 times favorited 0 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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05-30-2014 09:05 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tip

There have been comments about left tilt vs right tilt saws. Some prefer LT and others RT. The LT crowd feels it is safer, but with one drawback and that is the cursor setting on the rip fence when switching from standard to thin kerf blades. This is really not a problem, as RT saws have the same problem when switching blades. Let’s say I have a blade on my saw that has a .125” kerf and my fence cursor is zeroed in for a .125 kerf; If I switch to a thin kerf blade that is say .094”, the fence cursor will no longer reflect the change in kerf width. The reason for this is; regardless of kerf width, the blades teeth are centered on the blade’s plate, so the distance from the side of the tooth to the fence will be different depending on the blade used. I discovered this the hard way. I had my rip fence zeroed in for one particular blade and thought that changing to a thin kerf blade would not affect the rip fence setting because my saw is a RT. When my cuts were made, using the fence cursor, I found that my cuts were as much as .016” off. At first I thought that I had read the fence cursor wrong, but over and over, the same thing happened. I now realize that changing blades affects the fence setting. My fence is set so precisely, that I can set it to within .005”, just by eye and sometimes right on. If anyone is having this problem with either a RT or LT saw, this is the reason why. I just got a new blade and I will have to reset my fence. BTW, my fence is a Biesemeyer commercial. I hope this will help you if you encounter this same problem. I know that .016” is a very small difference, but that can make the difference between a tight fit and a loose fit. Being a machinist also, I find it easy to work to close tolerances, even in wood.

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