Jointer Problem.

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Forum topic by Gary Scoville posted 05-30-2014 05:32 AM 1311 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Gary Scoville

27 posts in 1728 days

05-30-2014 05:32 AM

Topic tags/keywords: jointer pine question milling refurbishing

Hi Guys,
I have an older Bellsaw 6” jointer that I set-up. I was running some 1×5-1/2 boards that used to be 1×12 yellow pine stair treads through my jointer. I was taking of about 1/8” per pass and checked the bottom and it is still not flat. (the board was quite cupped to start) I still have a “cup” on the jointed surface. Am I doing something wrong? This is my first attempt at jointing anything. Also the knives need help, I’m getting lines down the board. They probably need to be sharpened or replaced. Any ideas folks? Thanks in advance.

-- Gary Torrington, CT

8 replies so far

View RogerInColorado's profile


321 posts in 2158 days

#1 posted 05-30-2014 06:11 AM

I don’t think I understand. Do you mean you are cutting a cup in to the board? (in which case it sounds like your blades are not sharpened flat, they have some curve to them). Or, do you mean that you started out with a 1 inch board with a half inch cup and after jointing it down to a half inch you still have a quarter inch cup> If that’s the case, you may be putting way to much weight on the board. You should be applying just enough downward pressure to keep it moving across the table, no more. Wax your table if the material is hard to push.

View panamawayne's profile


72 posts in 1663 days

#2 posted 05-30-2014 07:14 AM

Have the blades sharpened and search youtube on how to set the outfeed table height.. have fun.

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3852 days

#3 posted 05-30-2014 07:58 AM

1/8” is big pass for face jointing. I take less than 1/16”. If the
blades are sharp at that depth, it shouldn’t require more than
gentle pressure to feed the work. What he said above about
pressing too hard I agree that may be a problem here.

The lines are caused by nicks. You can shift one knife
a little one way or the other and it will eliminate a lot
of that.

View Fettler's profile


200 posts in 2201 days

#4 posted 05-30-2014 09:08 AM

It’s likely that the piece is rocking because it’s not sitting flat on the infeed. Make a lighter cut and move the piece slowly/consistently across the blades. More over make sure the cupped side is down (upside down U shape) or that you’re putting pressure on high spots when feeding.

The lines are likely caused by nicks in your blades. They’re likely high-speed steel, i would replace them. You could sent them to someone to get sharpened or purchase a sharpening jig, but they’re probably fairly inexpensive to replace.

Also, make sure you pay attention to the grain direction. If you’re jointing against the grain you’ll likely get tearout.

-- --Rob, Seattle, WA

View Gary Scoville's profile

Gary Scoville

27 posts in 1728 days

#5 posted 05-30-2014 11:43 AM

Thanks Roger,Wayne,Loren and Rob. I guess I’m going to be ordering new knives. I did set the out feed table to about 1 to 2 thousand’s and I must be putting to much down word force on the wood. It sounded like it was taking to much off at once so I dialed back my cut. I never knew there was so much to learn. :-) It fun though. I’m excited to actual get to make something. Roger, the hole board used to be an old stair tread. The hole board was cupped and I was cutting it into smaller widths to make it easier to flatten and to work with. The wood was 1” x 12” x 36” yellow pine. I got them out of an older house that a carpenter friend was building new stairs. So I got about 8 or 10 tread’s.

-- Gary Torrington, CT

View bigblockyeti's profile


5286 posts in 1925 days

#6 posted 05-30-2014 01:15 PM

Putting too much down force while feeding (especially softwood) can flatten the board on the in feed table before it reaches the cutter head, then spring back on the out feed table allowing a smoother surface that still retains much of the original profile. Sharp knifes and gentle feeding force will certainly help cure this problem.

-- "Lack of effort will result in failure with amazing predictability" - Me

View b2rtch's profile


4868 posts in 3252 days

#7 posted 05-30-2014 02:43 PM

Make sure your tables are co-planar, this means in the same plan with each other.
Wax them to make the wood slide on easier, sharpen or replace the blades ( you can find most blades on Amazon. Buy Freud blades they are very good and inexpensive)

I hope this helps

-- Bert

View pintodeluxe's profile


5798 posts in 3017 days

#8 posted 05-30-2014 04:22 PM

1+ Rob’s comments. Make sure a warped board has two points of contact by sending it through the jointer concave side down. If you milled it convex side down, it may have rocked, and will never become flat (just thinner).

I have run into a couple boards that could not be flattened. If they are twisted and cupped, they may not be usable. If all else fails, shorten the length of the board and try again.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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