Need some help please.

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Forum topic by Mark posted 05-29-2014 11:21 PM 721 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Mark's profile


814 posts in 1395 days

05-29-2014 11:21 PM

Afternoon all. Got a problem…...again. To make the curved backs of the chairs I’m making I needed 8/4 stock and at $10.40/ BF I didn’t really want to go there. So I laminated 2- 4/4 pieces together and cut the curved back. On 2 of the upper crest rails I wasn’t paying attention to the layout of the curve and I cut from 1 pcs to the other. On these particular pieces the color and grain do not match at all. As the upper layer darkens I’m thinkin’ it’s going to get more noticeable. I’m kinda hoping some one will have a life saving idea short of turning it into fire wood. The first pic shows the lamination line on the lower back rail. The second pic shows the 2 layers of different color material. The top of the upper crest rail has a Walnut strip. Hope they make sense.

-- Mark

5 replies so far

View Wolfdaddy's profile


300 posts in 1255 days

#1 posted 05-29-2014 11:25 PM

Add another walnut accent strip to cover it?

-- "MOM! I think there's something under our house! I'm gonna need a jackhammer, a fish bowl, some air tanks, and maybe a few pipes."

View AandCstyle's profile


2538 posts in 1678 days

#2 posted 05-30-2014 12:48 AM

Mark, at this point firewood is NOT an option. You might consider very judiciously applying bleach to the darker piece and/or a little extra stain to the lighter piece. You will need to try various combinations on scrap first. However, the cherry will darken over time and the stain will remain the same so this isn’t really a great option. FWIW

-- Art

View JAAune's profile


1614 posts in 1738 days

#3 posted 05-30-2014 12:58 AM

For future reference, the next time you do this, consider doing the glue up as normal, then gluing a thin strip of wood over the top of that curved piece (1/16” or thinner). For some reason the eye has a harder time spotting glue lines near the edge. You could even do this for the face and the back. I don’t think there would be delamination issues since the grains would be mostly aligned it would be almost like a long grain joint.

I would suggest speeding up the darkening of the cherry by keeping the chair in a sunny room then blending in the light areas with a little toner. That technique does take practice but it minimizes the visual impact of color changes.

That being said, I don’t think the upper crest looks bad with that sapwood since it is broken up by the walnut. If it were glued against another piece of cherry it would look bad because sapwood just doesn’t grow in the middle of a board. The eye isn’t used to seeing that.

The curved rail is more problematic since it creates a line that’s visually jarring compared to the curve of the piece. That is the one I’d touch up with a bit of color.

All things considered, it’s still a nice chair. If you ever decide to burn it, send it to me instead.

-- See my work at and

View Mark's profile


814 posts in 1395 days

#4 posted 05-30-2014 03:48 AM

Thank you for the tips gents. W/D. I thought of the extra walnut accent, but there are 8 chairs (2 with the problem…but they all have to match). Art. Thanks for the tip, but I’m really afraid of the bleach at this point. Not knowing what I’m doing with it could cause severe issues. JA. I will defiantly try the sun light. We’re supposed to be in for 4 good sunny days. Thank you for your suggestions. I like your projects.

-- Mark

View Loren's profile


8159 posts in 3069 days

#5 posted 05-30-2014 08:31 AM

I might do something like get the stain as well as and then finish
the problem areas with shellac only, let them sit around to see
what happens and go back and strip off the shellac and do
work on it later. I sometimes dry brush acrylic model paint
to blend stain blunders. It can be buried in layers of finish.
Lines can be scratched in with a knife or pick to take additional
stain or paint.

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