LumberJocks

What plywood to use?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Wood & Lumber forum

Forum topic by Notw posted 05-29-2014 03:52 PM 1513 views 0 times favorited 27 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Notw's profile

Notw

467 posts in 1213 days


05-29-2014 03:52 PM

I am about to build two nightstands (small dressers really) and my wife would like them painted black as opposed to staining. I wouldn’t image I would need a veneer faced plywood to build these since they are just going to be covered in paint in the end. My question is will I be able to use a BC grade plywood and sand the outside facing pieces with an orbital sander to achieve a smooth paintable surface? Any suggestions or tips are appreciated. Thanks


27 replies so far

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

2281 posts in 1829 days


#1 posted 05-29-2014 04:06 PM

I did one project where I used the Home Depot BC plywood and painted it. I won’t do that again. The BC grading is a stretch, there will still be filling/sanding necessary, and if both sides will show, forget it. The purebond birch stiff they sell is much nicer and pretty smooth and ready to paint as-is. At $10 more expensive for a 4×8 3/4” sheet, it’s not worth the headache to deal with their BC. I also found their BC more prone to splintering on the cut than their purebond, probably due to the differing types of surface ply/veneer.

If you’re getting BC from another source that has better quality, well, I can’t speak to that. For a painted project, $45/sheet for something that’s ready to go is good for me.

Either way, prime it before painting. I used Kilz original on that BC plywood and it sucked it up.

Edit : Now that I think back, that BC pine ply from HD also warped quite a bit once I cut it down.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2735 posts in 2036 days


#2 posted 05-29-2014 04:24 PM

The purebond plywood is great. That’s what I would use.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View JAAune's profile

JAAune

1634 posts in 1776 days


#3 posted 05-29-2014 05:15 PM

MDO would probably make your life easier. Priming and sanding constructiong grade plywood to get a good painting surface can be a hassle. I’ve done it on shop fixtures and it works but the finish wasn’t furniture grade.

-- See my work at http://remmertstudios.com and http://altaredesign.com

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

4020 posts in 1811 days


#4 posted 05-29-2014 05:15 PM

I’d think about using MDF if you are going to paint it.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View ColonelTravis's profile

ColonelTravis

1188 posts in 1353 days


#5 posted 05-29-2014 05:46 PM

Agree with the others – stay away from BC from the big stores if you’re doing this. It’s fine for, say, a back room closet shelf that almost no one sees, but I wouldn’t use it for furniture. Agree that sanding that would be a total waste of your time, considering the nicer grades you can get from a lumber store, if you have one nearby. It’s more expensive but it’s much nicer.

Is hardwood absolutely out of the question for these?

View Earlextech's profile

Earlextech

1159 posts in 2150 days


#6 posted 05-29-2014 05:47 PM

Birch plywood at Lowes – http://www.lowes.com/pd_37985-99899-37985_0__?productId=3658234&Ntt=birch+plywood&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dbirch%2Bplywood&facetInfo=

No BC for furniture.

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "Finished"!

View Yonak's profile

Yonak

979 posts in 981 days


#7 posted 05-29-2014 05:55 PM

+1 for MDF. It provides a superior painting surface, unless it clashes with the texture of the frame wood. By the way, what kind of wood do you plan to use for the frame ?

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

2281 posts in 1829 days


#8 posted 05-29-2014 05:59 PM

I don’t know if it’s an option, but I would consider dying/staining it, to let the wood grain show through a bit.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View MrKnowItAll's profile

MrKnowItAll

20 posts in 934 days


#9 posted 05-29-2014 06:08 PM

I exclusively use OSB for my finer furniture projects. The 5/8 of course…..7/16 would be ridiculous.
Since the edges are already painted, I go ahead and paint the rest of the project to match.

-- -because I said so, that's why

View MT_Stringer's profile

MT_Stringer

2850 posts in 2691 days


#10 posted 05-29-2014 06:18 PM

Mom's Kitchen Cabinets
Poplar face frame, drawers and drawer fronts.
MDF panels for the drawer fronts.
Primed first, then painted with Benjamin Moore Impervo Satin

Bench with three cubbies

Details about stain included in the description
My friend loves them.

Good luck.
Mike

-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2735 posts in 2036 days


#11 posted 05-29-2014 07:09 PM

I would NOT use mdf for the main structure.
I made a small painted bookcase out of mdf years ago and it just doesn’t hold up.
No more for me.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5764 posts in 946 days


#12 posted 05-29-2014 07:26 PM

Anyone ever use the “sandeply” brand from Home Depot?

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

2281 posts in 1829 days


#13 posted 05-29-2014 07:31 PM

I did once, and it worked just fine, however finding it there was a fluke. It was there, out of the blue, one week, gone the next, never to be seen again. However the HD that’s about 30mi away stocks it regularly.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

7166 posts in 2036 days


#14 posted 05-29-2014 07:31 PM

MDO is what I would use.

It paints up real nice.

View ChefHDAN's profile

ChefHDAN

805 posts in 2309 days


#15 posted 05-29-2014 07:48 PM

+1 for the MDO, I just finished a project with MDF, and I’ll never do another, between the dust, the weight and the edge finishes, it’s not worth it. MDF used to be really cheap, but it’s gotten more expensive and the added time to futz with the edges makes way to time consuming.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

showing 1 through 15 of 27 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com